New Owner - Maintenance Timelines

[Mad Zeus]

FYI previous owner of your truck HOTGIRL .

 

[Mad Zeus]

Burn the pictures to some thing you just can’t unsee

 

[mykream]

First list of things (from shocks to ps pump) is a good idea now. Radiator hoses I would say could definitely wait a bit longer, but they are 11-12 years old now so not a bad idea as the rubber does degrade and lose shape/structure over time. I would say save the alternator for when yours takes a crap. I think you've got the big stuff handled.

Not sure on the timing and valve springs. I have seen posts here and there about the springs breaking, but to me it doesn't seem like that big of an issue with these (someone correct me if I am wrong here).

The lead frame seems to be one of two options.. Option 1: Pay the dealer around 1200-1400 to replace it. Option 2: Spend a few hundred and do it yourself in a few hours. (I would do it myself).

As for the fuel injectors, they don't just normally go bad and I wouldn't count them as a preventative maintenance item. One thing I would say, (assuming the ones you got from Advance are actual factory injectors). Is remove yours and send them out to be cleaned and flow tested and then have them as a spare set still. But when it comes down to it, dump some seafoam in the tank once a year and don't worry about it. These trucks all run 87-93 so the likelihood of an injector backing up is not likely. If the truck was ran on nothing but E85, then I would say swap them and have your originals cleaned. TLDR version, keep the new injectors in case yours need changed.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Already did fuse 27.

You’re saying do lead frame now even though no presenting issues with the trans?

no. but if doing one, do the other. and when you do, dont flush the trans, just replace whatever fluid is lost in the pan

 

[BryBlanch]

If your going to install new shocks I would recommend to upgrade to some 3.0's on all 4 corners. That's what I just recently did, I went Kings with finned reservoirs, and it made a huge difference.

 

[arobertsmith]

Welcome and nice truck . Glad you took the star graphics off the truck hopefully you burned them at the stake like a witch . Just finishing up everything on mine the plugs were fun . I wouldn’t do the LF .

So funny story, I am from Arizona but flew to Texas to buy the truck (some context to the stars), and any time my buddy and I stopped for gas, food, etc, we would take a few minutes to peel the stickers off. We completed the task just as we crossed the AZ/NM border. I literally could not wait to take them off. it was so awful. The rockstar wheels came off about a week later at home. Both were such a relief, but also I think its state helped me get the deal I did on the truck.

First list of things (from shocks to ps pump) is a good idea now. Radiator hoses I would say could definitely wait a bit longer, but they are 11-12 years old now so not a bad idea as the rubber does degrade and lose shape/structure over time. I would say save the alternator for when yours takes a crap. I think you've got the big stuff handled.

Not sure on the timing and valve springs. I have seen posts here and there about the springs breaking, but to me it doesn't seem like that big of an issue with these (someone correct me if I am wrong here).

The lead frame seems to be one of two options.. Option 1: Pay the dealer around 1200-1400 to replace it. Option 2: Spend a few hundred and do it yourself in a few hours. (I would do it myself).

As for the fuel injectors, they don't just normally go bad and I wouldn't count them as a preventative maintenance item. One thing I would say, (assuming the ones you got from Advance are actual factory injectors). Is remove yours and send them out to be cleaned and flow tested and then have them as a spare set still. But when it comes down to it, dump some seafoam in the tank once a year and don't worry about it. These trucks all run 87-93 so the likelihood of an injector backing up is not likely. If the truck was ran on nothing but E85, then I would say swap them and have your originals cleaned. TLDR version, keep the new injectors in case yours need changed.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll dig into the lead frame stuff a bit more. I have a buddy who is very experienced with trans work, so I will bribe into helping me swap it myself when the time comes.
On the Injectors, you kind of confirmed my thoughts. Yes they are OEM motorcraft injectors. I'll store the new ones away for a later date. at $7/ea I couldn't pass it up as a 'just in case' item.

If your going to install new shocks I would recommend to upgrade to some 3.0's on all 4 corners. That's what I just recently did, I went Kings with finned reservoirs, and it made a huge difference.

I hear you, and yes Fox 3.0's are in the upgrade plan. I got a deal I couldn't pass up on four new in box 2.5's so im going to run those. Next stop will be deavers and RPG rear bump / frame brace kit, and after that 3.0s. If I hadn't gotten the deal I did I would likely go 3.0s now.

 

[arobertsmith]

View attachment 482140
FYI previous owner of your truck .

Lol.So great.

It was actually titled to a female and the previous registration listed the plate as 'HOTGURL'.... Not that it makes it any better. haha

 

[Augster]

Questions:
2. Valve springs
I see a lot of info on preventative Valve spring replacements. When should that be done by ideally?

Not sure on the timing and valve springs. I have seen posts here and there about the springs breaking, but to me it doesn't seem like that big of an issue with these (someone correct me if I am wrong here).

There's no "preventative" maintenance that can be done with springs; you either replace them all in advance at some arbitrary point in time, or just wait until one breaks and R&R just that one. The Ford 6.2L is notorious for breaking valve springs. When they break, you will DEFINITELY know as the engine runs horribly.

Had my #8 intake break on me last September.



If you're mechanically inclined, it's not difficult to replace so long as you have the right tools. I used a Cylinder Leak-Down tester with the jug at TDC and attached an air compressor to assist keeping the valve closed during the replacement.



Throw on the spring compressor, crank away, then use a magnetic pick-up tool to remove the valve spring keepers.



Replacement parts are relatively inexpensive, which consists of a new OEM spring and valve cover gasket. I also replaced the valve stem seal while I was in there.



The biggest problem I had was removing the coil-on-plug electrical connectors; after 12 years and 150k+, the red locking tabs were brittle on mine and several of them broke off.



A genuine Ford repair pigtail is pricey, so replacing multiple sets can ring up your repair costs significantly. But I found the manufacturer part number of the connector and sourced just those at $1.46 from Mouser and cannibalized just their red tabs to replace all my broken ones.

 

[Augster]

I forgot to mention that another option is to replace the whole valve train spring assemblies with a performance aftermarket set, such as from Livernois Motorports (titanium retainers), or from one of the members here, Cody Dawson of Perfect Circle Engines (options for chromoly or titanium retainers).

When I'm ready to go Whipple, this is what I'll be doing...

 

[arobertsmith]

Yeah im aware that you cant prevent them from breaking, but just have to replace them. I was trying to get some feedback on when to put that on my radar. You had a failure at 150k then?