New Guy: From Gen 1 to Gen 2
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ayoustin
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A synthetic blend oil will work fine if it meets Ford's oil spec, though over time it will probably leave the inside of the crankcase a bit dirtier and there may be some small deposits. A full synthetic will certainly keep the engine cleaner. If you just use your truck for getting around and the occasional haul job a blend is fine. If you're doing a lot of off roading or towing then I'd recommend you use a full synthetic as it will degrade less from the increased shearing and heat produced during those conditions.
Medic 6
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Great pictures! Welcome to the forum.
Welcome... appreciate your professional insights as well!
Awesome pics. Now that you mention it, that IS the first Gen 2 I’ve seen with a naked tailgate haha! So what’s the corrosion protection plan?
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ayoustin
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Haha, yes it took tons of scouring dealer sites to find an 801a without the applique. I don't think the applique looks bad, it's just not my preference. I tend to gravitate to more simple looks.
As for corrosion protection, I like to spray vehicles I drive in the winter with a product called Woolwax. It's very similar to Fluid Film but it sprays a bit thicker and they make it in black so it blends on the frame very nicely. I'll be spraying the frame and suspension this week and then I'll be picking up some frame plugs and Husky rear liners.
I plan to keep this truck for as long as I possibly can, so hopefully 20-30 years. While it still has a warranty I don't plan to mod the drivetrain, just to keep life simple. So for now the only things planned outside of corrosion protection is getting the bed line-x'ed, some decent fog lights, getting the front windows tinted to match the rear, and possibly a dual catch can kit.
I kept my beadlock wheels off my gen 1. I'm trying to decide if I want to use those on the new truck or keep the new beadlocks that came with it. I found a few guys who threw the gen 1 beadlocks on their gen 2 but none of them are oxford white trucks so still kind of on the fence about that. Whichever set I end up keeping I'll buy a set of the FP lock rings for.
Thanks I've been researching various products, haven't heard of Woolwax but Fluid Film gets highly rated, I tried Amsoil HDMP but some variation of a sheep dip is probably better 
I noticed the tradein had Gen 2 wheels and wondered what became of the Gen 1 beadlocks from the first pic!
I noticed the tradein had Gen 2 wheels and wondered what became of the Gen 1 beadlocks from the first pic!
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ayoustin
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Thanks I've been researching various products, haven't heard of Woolwax but Fluid Film gets highly rated, I tried Amsoil HDMP but some variation of a sheep dip is probably better
There's lot of good options. Fluid Film works very well too as does Amsoil and LPS. Woolwax is just what I was first introduced to a few years ago and it's never done me wrong so I'll keep using it, also has a very non offensive smell to it!
I'm gonna jack up the truck this weekend and toss on the gen 1 wheels to see how they look. Not sure if it'll give me a good idea without tires but I can probably stitch a few photos together to give me a good idea.
Welcome and nice truck!
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ayoustin
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Well I ended up buying a set of Husky Liners from a fellow member who's local. Threw them in after lunch and am very pleased with them, Ford honestly should've put something similar on from the factory.
After searching around on the forum about these there seems to be some bias against them, and it's not without reason. I definitely had to work them a bit to make them go in happily. Here's a few notes in case anyone is considering them:
1. Enlarge the two holes that have the factory flare screws going through them. On the first side I didn't do this and they were a royal pain to line up. On the second on I opened them up with a 13/32" drill bit and they lined up no problem.
2. I found it easier to get both ends seated before getting the flange fit between the flare and the bed. Install the front side first, I did this on the first liner and tried putting the rear end in first on the second liner and could not get the front up into the bed because of how much thicker the cross section is on the front vs the rear which is thinner.
3. I beveled the edge of the flange on the liner with a dremel. It definitely helps it slide between the bed and flare easier.
4. I used a plastic body trim tool (like $7 at Harbor Freight for a set) to get the flange between the flare and bed. Once you get both ends of the flange in you can slide the trim tool along the middle easily to seat the rest. It's not easy to do by hand and metal tools might end up marring the flare.
5. I heard concerns about the driver side rubbing the wiring for the live valve actuator on the shock. It seems to clear the wire just fine as there isn't much slack in the wire. I clearanced that area with my dremel, but it probably wasn't needed.
6. People seem to be concerned about the liners holding in dirt. I have a hard time seeing this happening. The liner contours to the wheel well pretty nicely. The only area there is a gap is above the shock, which if Husky reworked their mold they could close that area off by not having the liner bump out for the shock. And anyway, that area is vertical, you'll be hard pressed to get dirt packed up there. And the truck is aluminum so even if there was dirt up there, it wouldn't hurt much of anythng.
7. The last concern I saw was people thinking the liner would be ripped out during off roading. I don't think this would happen. You'd pretty much have to rip your flare off to remove this liner. And there's about 1.5" clearance between the liner where it clears the shock and the inside of the tire.
Anyway, I definitely consider it money well spent. I look forward to being able to easily clean my wheel wells
After searching around on the forum about these there seems to be some bias against them, and it's not without reason. I definitely had to work them a bit to make them go in happily. Here's a few notes in case anyone is considering them:
1. Enlarge the two holes that have the factory flare screws going through them. On the first side I didn't do this and they were a royal pain to line up. On the second on I opened them up with a 13/32" drill bit and they lined up no problem.
2. I found it easier to get both ends seated before getting the flange fit between the flare and the bed. Install the front side first, I did this on the first liner and tried putting the rear end in first on the second liner and could not get the front up into the bed because of how much thicker the cross section is on the front vs the rear which is thinner.
3. I beveled the edge of the flange on the liner with a dremel. It definitely helps it slide between the bed and flare easier.
4. I used a plastic body trim tool (like $7 at Harbor Freight for a set) to get the flange between the flare and bed. Once you get both ends of the flange in you can slide the trim tool along the middle easily to seat the rest. It's not easy to do by hand and metal tools might end up marring the flare.
5. I heard concerns about the driver side rubbing the wiring for the live valve actuator on the shock. It seems to clear the wire just fine as there isn't much slack in the wire. I clearanced that area with my dremel, but it probably wasn't needed.
6. People seem to be concerned about the liners holding in dirt. I have a hard time seeing this happening. The liner contours to the wheel well pretty nicely. The only area there is a gap is above the shock, which if Husky reworked their mold they could close that area off by not having the liner bump out for the shock. And anyway, that area is vertical, you'll be hard pressed to get dirt packed up there. And the truck is aluminum so even if there was dirt up there, it wouldn't hurt much of anythng.
7. The last concern I saw was people thinking the liner would be ripped out during off roading. I don't think this would happen. You'd pretty much have to rip your flare off to remove this liner. And there's about 1.5" clearance between the liner where it clears the shock and the inside of the tire.
Anyway, I definitely consider it money well spent. I look forward to being able to easily clean my wheel wells
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