New Gen. 1 Owner in Michigan

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yoopercharged

yoopercharged

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Super clean, congrats!

Check rocker panel tape squares, remove and replace with gorilla/similar tape since you’re in the snow belt.

Unscrew third brake light to check for signs of leakage, it will seep down to the cab corner and rust from the inside. Use your flavor of waterproof sealant when putting it back on.

Replace rubber things (don’t know technical term) on each side of top of rear cab.

All things I wish I would have known to have done early living in IL with a 2014 I bought used.
Thanks for the info, I was aware of the 3rd brake light issues but I will have to look into those other items. Did you have your truck undercoated? I'm hoping to get a few years of rust-free daily usage out of it before it's retired to a weekend truck.
 

WHBD

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Super clean, congrats!

Check rocker panel tape squares, remove and replace with gorilla/similar tape since you’re in the snow belt.

Unscrew third brake light to check for signs of leakage, it will seep down to the cab corner and rust from the inside. Use your flavor of waterproof sealant when putting it back on.

Replace rubber things (don’t know technical term) on each side of top of rear cab.

All things I wish I would have known to have done early living in IL with a 2014 I bought used.
Could you be more specific on the rubber things?
 

Evil Peaches

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I did the same thing in 2020! Bought mine in Arkansas and drove it back to Michigan. I replaced my shocks with a refurbished set around 90,000 miles and noticed a pretty big difference. You should be fine for quite a while if you’re around 50k.
 
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yoopercharged

yoopercharged

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I did the same thing in 2020! Bought mine in Arkansas and drove it back to Michigan. I replaced my shocks with a refurbished set around 90,000 miles and noticed a pretty big difference. You should be fine for quite a while if you’re around 50k.
How's it holding up to Michigan? When it comes time for shocks I'm thinking about going this route as it seems like the most cost-effective way to bump up to 3.0's.
 

TomDirt

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Unscrew third brake light to check for signs of leakage, it will seep down to the cab corner and rust from the inside. Use your flavor of waterproof sealant when putting it back on.

Replace rubber things (don’t know technical term) on each side of top of rear cab.
Thanks for this tip☝️
 

MFNG

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How's it holding up to Michigan? When it comes time for shocks I'm thinking about going this route as it seems like the most cost-effective way to bump up to 3.0's.
Go 3.0 if you can find a take off set. Huge difference in rears alone. Looking to go the Mikra Mfg. route via Shocks by Hammer with the fronts I have that need rebuilt.

2.5 rebuilds just never held up for me personally and I am mostly on road.
 
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