Need ideas for broken header bolts

[Ratpatator]

So I need a little advice on how to get the broken header bolts out of the block. Wondering if someone has had experience with this issue. If there is a thread about this already please point me in the right direction.

It's the two studs that are on the back exhaust port on the passenger side (so far). I believe they are flush or a little recessed into the block. Am I going to have to pull the engine to get to them or is there enough room to rotate the engine in the truck with engine mounts removed. I have ****** long tubes to go back in and I'm worried that more studs will break during removal. I also don't have a shop to use right now so this will probably end up being done in the damn driveway. Any tricks or ideas would be much appreciated.

 

[B E N]

If your concerned about the other studs pull them now and replace the whole mess of them. For your broken stud if you have a welder weld a nut to them, or just build up enough weld material to grab with vice grips. The heat cycle will loosen them up and you can just grab the nut. The weld material wont stick to aluminum. If no welder use a right angle drill and a set of easy outs. Make sure and center punch the studs before you try to drill them.

 

[Ratpatator]

If your concerned about the other studs pull them now and replace the whole mess of them. For your broken stud if you have a welder weld a nut to them, or just build up enough weld material to grab with vice grips. The heat cycle will loosen them up and you can just grab the nut. The weld material wont stick to aluminum. If no welder use a right angle drill and a set of easy outs. Make sure and center punch the studs before you try to drill them.

That's exactly what one on my mechanic friends suggested I'm just nervous about trying it with the engine in the truck because of room. Don't want to get it apart then find out I have to pull the motor. Current driveway is gravel. Do you know if there is a way to get enough access to do all that.

 

[Ben Lucas]

Welding a nut or bolt on broken stud is the easiest method. If it’s recessed in just stack the weld till it’s back out of the hole then weld nut or bolt. I’ve had the best luck with welding a bolt on. It has more surface area to weld on, then a nut but you need to lay a bead all the way up the threads of the bolt. Other wise it will just twist the head off.

 

[dsg2003mach1]

when this happened on my mustang I had good luck with reverse drill bits. I hope you dont have to pull the motor

 

[ezndo]

You really want as much room as possible to remove the broken bolts. I would remove motor mount bolts, jack up the motor and try going through the wheelwell after removing the liner. If that doesn’t work, then you may have to pull the motor.

 

[Wheelz96]

+1 on the easy out. Using a propane torch to heat up once the extractor is in place will help the broken bolt back out (aluminum expands when heated). The pilot hole must be centered and using a punch is the best away to achieve this.

Welding a stud or bolt like others have said is also a good way with minimum risk due to the aluminum block (weld will only stick to bolt). If you go this route make sure to disconnect battery.

For future stud removal, preheat and spraying some PB won't hurt. DO NOT use any type of impact tool to remove (hopefully this is obvious).

 

[perry]

After going through all this the long way w a 6.8 V10 I’d highly recommend buying a kit from promax or manibolt. The weld method might work great for a block that’s out of the engine bay or if you’re just lucky on which stud it is and you can actually reach it. In reality I could reach very few and just twisted welds off. Out of the 10 or so that we’re busted I think I managed 1 with the weld method. Space is at a premium. I was able to remove motor mounts and loosen tranny mount on my F250 enough to jack the engine up against the upper cowling to gain room to work. Mayhew stud extractor was a life saver. Air operated 90° drill And reverse drill bits also a life saver. Good luck, hoping for decent weather and not many broken studs in your endeavors. I’d replace all factory studs!

 

[Scott D Robinson]

I put Stainless Works headers and exhaust system last winter, if you remove the inner fender, motor mount and starter you can jack the motor up. I was very fortunate not to break any off flush with head. Be patience with the others double nut, then spray with bolt spray move back and forth in small amounts till it breaks free. good luck, Scooter

 

[Ratpatator]

Thanks for all the advice. Will definitely do everything I can to not break any more and impact is definitely out of the question. Put the headers on my mustang but everything was in a lot better condition as far as bolts

One other thing. I stated the wrong brand earlier they are kooks headers, think the hookers are on my mustang. How good is the quality of the kooks hardware or should I do something else for better durability?