Need a constant hot wire in the bed

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Mad Zeus

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I’d go off the battery with a dedicated fuse as many amps as you want. I’d also do an auxiliary by the lights with a switch and another outlet.
 

pat247

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Caution this is Gen 1 stuff but may work on a newer model. If you run a dedicated wire from the battery to the bed this is possible.

 

Mad Zeus

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I’ve found tapping into other wires are about of 50% failure with something else . That’s why I suggest separate circuit from battery. IMG_2325.jpeg
 

downforce137

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i was under the impression there is no hot wire in the trailer plug anymore thanks to a trailer plug control module that only makes the hot wire hot when a trailer is connected..

i def would not run the lights right off the bed light circuit, but instead use the bed light circuit to energize a relay that turns on the aftermarket lighting.

pretty simple to do and not going to brick your BCM or any other modules involved..
 

The Car Stereo Company

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I’ve found tapping into other wires are about of 50% failure with something else . That’s why I suggest separate circuit from battery. View attachment 482270
holy shit. 50℅? you just tapping into random wires and hoping for the best?
i was under the impression there is no hot wire in the trailer plug anymore thanks to a trailer plug control module that only makes the hot wire hot when a trailer is connected..

i def would not run the lights right off the bed light circuit, but instead use the bed light circuit to energize a relay that turns on the aftermarket lighting.

pretty simple to do and not going to brick your BCM or any other modules involved..
not sure about the trailer module and power, but the gen 1 you had to insert a fuse and relay to make the trailer plug work. either way, guy still gotta run a wire from the battery it sounds like. im not sure the amperage of the bed light circuit on these. but at 2 amp draw like he is suggesting, that would be a 3-4 amp safe capability of the circuit. im wondering if its a 5 amp fuse and line for that circuit.
 

downforce137

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holy shit. 50℅? you just tapping into random wires and hoping for the best?

not sure about the trailer module and power, but the gen 1 you had to insert a fuse and relay to make the trailer plug work. either way, guy still gotta run a wire from the battery it sounds like. im not sure the amperage of the bed light circuit on these. but at 2 amp draw like he is suggesting, that would be a 3-4 amp safe capability of the circuit. im wondering if its a 5 amp fuse and line for that circuit.

GEN2 def does not have a all the time hot wire in the trailer plug, as i found out when trying to add a circuit for LED buggy whips..

the problem as stated by @FordTechOne is that the Field Effect Transistors in the BCM, or whatever module are only rated to the factory load..

adding 2a with a fuse or not to a circuit only designed for 5a will def cause problems long term..

using the FET/BCM to engergize a relay will add barely anything.. 10mA maybe?
 
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