My Raptor got broken into

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texasflyer

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Had the non keyed door handle, truck vault & Ravelco installed first week I got the truck.

San Antonio is not a safe place for Fords....

http://www.ravelco.com/

So how will you get in the truck if/when the battery dies? I didn't get a response when I asked someone else this question earlier.

The Ravelco thing is interesting. So do you take the plug with you every time you park? If the plug is not installed while parked, are other electrical systems still active? Alarm, Remote Start, Ford Pass communication?
 

Obscure

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So how will you get in the truck if/when the battery dies? I didn't get a response when I asked someone else this question earlier.

The Ravelco thing is interesting. So do you take the plug with you every time you park? If the plug is not installed while parked, are other electrical systems still active? Alarm, Remote Start, Ford Pass communication?

Believe someone was saying they'd have to get the hood to release with a coat hanger or something to be able to jump the battery to unlock it. Someone also mentioned being able to power through the trailer hookup to give it enough juice to unlock.
 
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texasflyer

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Believe someone was saying they'd have to get the hood to release with a coat hanger or something to be able to jump the battery to unlock it. Someone also mentioned being able to power through the trailer hookup to give it enough juice to unlock.

Yeah I saw that earlier. I was hoping for a little more detail. Like someone who had actually done it and could verify they were able to unlock the hood latch without scratching up the paint.
 

mmayo

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on my F350 I have a WARN 12v quick connect under the front bumper if the battery dies. I've never used it in 10 years for a dead battery, there's always enough power to unlock the door even when not enough juice to start. There's ways to access the power if needed, better than a broken door handle.

I've wondered about getting power via trailer connection, but not sure it would route the power back to the battery.

On the ravelco, yes you just pull that plug and it will not start. Everything else is still active.
 

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Believe someone was saying they'd have to get the hood to release with a coat hanger or something to be able to jump the battery to unlock it. Someone also mentioned being able to power through the trailer hookup to give it enough juice to unlock.
Has anyone tried getting power in through the trailer wiring to unlock the doors? That would be a slick way to do it. Any portable 12 volt battery would work.

You could also make your own plug like those included with trickle chargers. Those wire straight to the battery terminals and have a waterproof cap on the connector end. Then just tuck the connector end up under the bumper. You would just need to have another connector and a 12 volt power source or jump. I have an unused trickle charger in the garage with all the correct wires.
 
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texasflyer

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on my F350 I have a WARN 12v quick connect under the front bumper if the battery dies. I've never used it in 10 years for a dead battery, there's always enough power to unlock the door even when not enough juice to start. There's ways to access the power if needed, better than a broken door handle.

I've wondered about getting power via trailer connection, but not sure it would route the power back to the battery.

On the ravelco, yes you just pull that plug and it will not start. Everything else is still active.

Thanks for the info. I have more research to do.
 

jzweedyk

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Yeah I saw that earlier. I was hoping for a little more detail. Like someone who had actually done it and could verify they were able to unlock the hood latch without scratching up the paint.
My friend said you can take the jumper cables and connect it to a ground underneath the truck and the cable coming down to the starter relay. That way you don't need to open the hood to get power if your battery is dead. But I agree, unlocking the doors doesn't take much battery power, so the battery would have to be really dead for the doors not to unlock.
 

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Similar happened to me with my wife's Acura MDX at the Airport at 2 am. The door opened with the key since remote FOB would not work. Car would not start. My jumper cables were in the in-floor compartment behind the 3rd row and rear hatch must be open to get in there. Not enough power to unlock hatch! The no power override for the rear hatch is under a trim panel on the inside of hatch. Security would not Jump me due to liability! Crawled over the 3rd row seats and opened the hatch to get out my cables. Nobody wandered by to Jump with. Called AAA. They got there with a small lunchbox sized battery booster. Car just went one turn over then click click click! So he had to call another tow truck that had a bigger booster. None of them would let me Jump to them with my cables! The bigger battery booster worked just barely on the 3rd try.

That 07 MDX was an electromechanical nightmare. 1st Gen gadgetry. As you were starting it, it would run a self test on power mirrors and power tilt wheel cycling all of them at the same time as starter and turn on the headlights. HUGE power drain! Battery would only last 2 years at a time. It lasted only 6 years. There were multiple gadget issues! We got rid of it after this. Didnt get out of the airport parking lot till 3:30 am after a 6 hour flight home to HNL.

The electronics in these newer cars is UNFOREGIVING when theres no power! I wonder how long the battery will last in our Raptors?
 

KODIAK

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If I were to paint the handles and ship them, what would yall be willing to pay? Obviously OEM job, factory paint with clear and no defects.

What's the cost of the primed handle itself? How long does it take for each one for you?
 
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