My 2014 Roush Raptor Doesn't Feel Like 590hp

[ScottM713]

Hi everyone,

I just picked up a 2014 Supercharged Roush Raptor w/ 60,000 miles on it. I was excited about it being 590hp, but after buying it and driving it hard to see it's limits, it seems more like it has 400 horsepower lol Max boost it gets is 6psi. I read they made a Roush 525hp version, Stage I? Which would make sense, because it only feels like 400hp is actually getting to the wheels (also taking into account the enormous weight of the truck itself).

How can I tell if I have the 525hp or 590hp version? Or maybe there is something I should check in the engine bay?

Thanks!

 

[icecoldak]

I would find a dyno someplace and strap it up and see what its putting down!

 

[ScottM713]

I just read on the JDM website that the stock Roush Raptor (supercharged) puts down approx. 440rwhp. Makes sense now. I guess I need to do a smaller pulley and tune LOL

 

[Vash]

Yeah, big difference between crank and wheel HP on a heavy vehicle with a decent dose of drivetrain loss. Most max effort (for stock internals) builds net around 560 or so WHP which is over 700 at the crank.

In the end, it’s still a heavy vehicle and the laws of physics apply. It can be quick enough to surprise some people though.

 

[FordTechOne]

These packages were rated by Roush; they aren’t comparable to OEM or SAE certified ratings. Hence expectations vs. reality.

Line up a “700HP” Roush upfitted Gen 1 with a stock 700HP Raptor R; the Roush will look like it’s going backward.

Be advised that the Roush supercharger kit places a significant torsional load on the crank, which the 6.2 was never designed to handle being a naturally aspirated engine. The smaller the pulley, the higher the load on the crank. That loading can result in cracked oil pump gears, which causes oil pressure loss and catastrophic engine failure.

You can upgrade to a billet oil pump, but it’s a lot of work with a significant cost. Even with the oil pump upgrade the next weak point is the pistons and rods; neither are designed to handle boost.

 

[Gumby]

@ScottM713 I also have a factory Roush Gen1 New to me. but by the rear axel perches (I would say) it had a pretty hard 169000 by previous owners. I have seen it make 9-10 lbs of boost. As far as HP IDK? or really care.
I probably will do a JDM tune at some point. As far as what @FordTechOne says... all true, good, and valid points. but should be taken with a grain of salt. look at it this way you got 100k less on your truck than mine. Enjoy it. Mine defiantly was. and will be till it breaks then I will fix it.

Oh .....welcome to FRF you might want to post a pic of said Raptor before the Prius police find you.LOL
and they will.

 

[BoostedToy]

Hi everyone,

I just picked up a 2014 Supercharged Roush Raptor w/ 60,000 miles on it. I was excited about it being 590hp, but after buying it and driving it hard to see it's limits, it seems more like it has 400 horsepower lol Max boost it gets is 6psi. I read they made a Roush 525hp version, Stage I? Which would make sense, because it only feels like 400hp is actually getting to the wheels (also taking into account the enormous weight of the truck itself).

How can I tell if I have the 525hp or 590hp version? Or maybe there is something I should check in the engine bay?

Thanks!

What elevation are you at? If you aren’t at 4000’+ ft, you likely have the Stage I. You can also check the supercharger pulley size. I believe the Stage I had a 78mm pulley and the Stage II a 75mm. I was running a 72mm from VMP. At near sea level (while living in coastal AK), it would make 9.5-10psi.

It was a great truck for me. It had 160k on it when I sold it after five years of ownership this past October. As FordTechOne mentioned, if you plan on driving it as if it was designed with OEM, you’re playing with fire (my words, not his). If you don’t plan on billet OPG’s, I would highly recommend traction bars to limit wheel hop and also, factory 315/70/17’s will be your friend versus going to a larger, heavier tire. There is a significant load difference between a factory KO2 and a 37” let’s pick a tire, Nitto Ridge Grappler. The KO2 is 20lbs lighter per tire of rotational mass. I would need to break out my calculator, but the weight alone doesn’t depict the full story, as the larger diameter tire is lengthening your effective final drive ratio, which also increases load.

Good luck with the truck, mine was solid, but I also didn’t drive it like I did the TRX while I owned it.

 

[ScottM713]

These packages were rated by Roush; they aren’t comparable to OEM or SAE certified ratings. Hence expectations vs. reality.

Line up a “700HP” Roush upfitted Gen 1 with a stock 700HP Raptor R; the Roush will look like it’s going backward.

Be advised that the Roush supercharger kit places a significant torsional load on the crank, which the 6.2 was never designed to handle being a naturally aspirated engine. The smaller the pulley, the higher the load on the crank. That loading can result in cracked oil pump gears, which causes oil pressure loss and catastrophic engine failure.

You can upgrade to a billet oil pump, but it’s a lot of work with a significant cost. Even with the oil pump upgrade the next weak point is the pistons and rods; neither are designed to handle boost.

Damn! Sounds like Roush likes to do the "I added a muffler so probably gained 30 hp from it" style power ratings lol a little bit of a let down. And that is scary about the engine not being made for boost, thanks for stating. I might just leave it alone at this point. Here's a pic of it for the Prius Police:

 

[ScottM713]

What elevation are you at? If you aren’t at 4000’+ ft, you likely have the Stage I. You can also check the supercharger pulley size. I believe the Stage I had a 78mm pulley and the Stage II a 75mm. I was running a 72mm from VMP. At near sea level (while living in coastal AK), it would make 9.5-10psi.

It was a great truck for me. It had 160k on it when I sold it after five years of ownership this past October. As FordTechOne mentioned, if you plan on driving it as if it was designed with OEM, you’re playing with fire (my words, not his). If you don’t plan on billet OPG’s, I would highly recommend traction bars to limit wheel hop and also, factory 315/70/17’s will be your friend versus going to a larger, heavier tire. There is a significant load difference between a factory KO2 and a 37” let’s pick a tire, Nitto Ridge Grappler. The KO2 is 20lbs lighter per tire of rotational mass. I would need to break out my calculator, but the weight alone doesn’t depict the full story, as the larger diameter tire is lengthening your effective final drive ratio, which also increases load.

Good luck with the truck, mine was solid, but I also didn’t drive it like I did the TRX while I owned it.

In at sea level, so should be getting the absolute most psi from it. Thanks for stating the tire deal. I was ready to throw on some Ridge Grapplers, as I like the look of those, but def don't want to add more weight/slow the truck down!

 

[Canuck714]

In at sea level, so should be getting the absolute most psi from it. Thanks for stating the tire deal. I was ready to throw on some Ridge Grapplers, as I like the look of those, but def don't want to add more weight/slow the truck down!

Do yourself a favor and get a JDM tune in it.
The Roush tune is horrendous, they also do not change any of the tables in the transmission.