Morimoto XB Headlights vs. OEM LED - Lux Results

[flynford]

So out of boredom tonight I decided to do a little shootout.

We compared the OEM LED headlights against the Morimoto XB LED Headlights (v1) against the Morimoto XB LED Headlights (v2).

We did this in a controlled, highly secure and scientific testing facility. Complete with real-time weather abilities. Okay... so it was in my driveway, at 7pm at night in 45 degree weather with leaves blowing around. Whatever

But the shops 16' alignment banner is buried behind old storage racks at the warehouse and I had a lot of people asking for some data.

So the nitty gritty.

At 25' the OEM LED Headlights put out 570 lux.
At 25' the Morimoto XB LED Headlights (v1) put out 950 lux.
At 25' the Morimoto XB LED Headlights (v2) put out 1490 lux.

So yeah... there's a HUGE difference between the new Morimotos and your factory OEM LED.

For those who don't know, v1 references the XB Headlights for the Gen2 Raptors sold before the Summer of 2020. Right around that time they came out with their new versions, the v2. Or as they call it Generation 2/2nd Generation/V2.

I threw some high beams hots in as well. You can see how clear the cut-off is on the Morimotos compared to the stock OEM LED (and it's amazing, how Ford won awards for their LED Headlight design).

The new Morimotos ARE currently out of stock until January 2021 so if you want to secure a set, better order them now: https://www.4x4truckleds.com/morimoto-xb-led-headlights-for-2017-ford-f150-raptor/

As always, if anybody has questions about these, let me know.

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If you get bored another evening, please do the same thing for the Gen-1 lights as well. I currently have Raptor Retrofit HID and the housings are getting shabby with the outer lens starting to lose it's glossy top coat. Looking at the Morimoto LED lights, been trying to find YouTube or other real-world light output just like this for those before making the shift/purchase. I like what you did there, it's crisp, and exactly how ally light manufacturers should demonstrate their products. Stock with low, then low+high, and then like Morimoto include the same pair with each gen that has been made and/or available. Nothing worse to be sold by the numbers of lumens, candela, or etc.; however, real-world be underwhelmed with the performance and then have to deal with returning them.

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

If you get bored another evening, please do the same thing for the Gen-1 lights as well. I currently have Raptor Retrofit HID and the housings are getting shabby with the outer lens starting to lose it's glossy top coat. Looking at the Morimoto LED lights, been trying to find YouTube or other real-world light output just like this for those before making the shift/purchase. I like what you did there, it's crisp, and exactly how ally light manufacturers should demonstrate their products. Stock with low, then low+high, and then like Morimoto include the same pair with each gen that has been made and/or available. Nothing worse to be sold by the numbers of lumens, candela, or etc.; however, real-world be underwhelmed with the performance and then have to deal with returning them.

Easier said then done. We don't have a factory HID projection system. I have the factory projector, but no factory HID system for it (just aftermarket bulbs). So I could do it with our own HID bulbs, to give you an idea on what OEM would be similar to.

 

[flynford]

Easier said then done. We don't have a factory HID projection system. I have the factory projector, but no factory HID system for it (just aftermarket bulbs). So I could do it with our own HID bulbs, to give you an idea on what OEM would be similar to.

I get it, the early Gen-1s didn't have HID, they had the halogen H13 bulbs, but if you have the Morimoto's two different LED housings. My thought was do the same thing like you did for the Gen-2. To be clear on the request is below, I hope this make more sense and hopefully do-able. ;-)

Stock Halogen: low, high, low+high
Morimoto XB Hybrid: low, high, low+high
Morimoto XB: low, high, low+high

Thanks!

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Morimoto doesn't have 2 regular XB for the Gen1 Raptors. They didn't release a "2nd gen" like they did for the Gen2 Raptors.

They have the XB and the Hybrid XB though, which we can demonstrate in a shootout against the factory projectors. I MIGHT have a set of the non-factory housings from a 12th Gen Truck in the shop as well I can try out. This way we have all 4

 

[DanT]

Please clarify V2”9 for Gen 2 Raptors built before summer 2020. V2 okay for any Gen 2 Raptors?

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

That's just when the 2nd versions came out. There's no way in knowing which ones you have unless you either tell me your order # (if placed from us) or you check your actual housings themselves out.

Around Summer of 2020 is when the 2nd generations of these were announced and pre-orders came in. They didn't actually ship until around October of this year.

So depending on who you bought it/when you bought it/etc... you may or may not have gotten the new ones.

The new ones cost $1,495 though BUT there are some sellers who will sell you the OLD ones for $1495 (we have 1 customer who has these new ones on pre-order for us for a non-raptor and saw an amazon listing at $1495 but they were the OLD ones, just new pricing).

If you don't buy from us, you REALLY need to watch where you buy from. There are some good dealers and then some shady dealers who do nothing but drop ship and they honestly have no clue what they are selling you (nor do they care, it's about making a quick buck).

Thew new ones also have a new sku on the box.

 

[Schnatty2Dope]

Awesome comparison, thank you for taking the time to supply us with the details. I have the V1’s on my truck and have wondered foe quite some time if they were even worth it. After seeing this I’m realizing mine aren’t angled up high enough....do you have any tips on how to adjust them easily? Taking them in and out to do the adjustments is such a pain.

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Park your truck on a leveled surface with a blank wall in front of you. Back it up 25' from the wall.
Now measure to the center of your low beams (on Morimotos you have 2 don't forget, and the top 2 are your lows, so measure to the center of the top most one).
Now deduct 2" from this #.

On the wall put a piece of painters tape (that's what I use, any marking will work) at that # you have (center of highest low beam minus 2"). This is your cut-off line. This is the highest the projector's cut-off should be at.

We like to use 2" because that'll tell you the light is being thrown DOWN towards the ground instead of starting to go high. It'll make sure the light does not blind people 100' down the road since it'll be traveling in a downward path.

The alignment screw is right on top. You'll use a philips screw driver to turn it left or right to move it up and down.

That should give you a perfect setup.

For the high beams (on the v1) it's a little more work. You have to get under the housing, pull back the fender liner and get a screw driver in there. You SHOULD be able to do this. You'll basically throw your highs on the wall and aim them so they are flooding right int he center or slightly above a tiny bit. You don't want them TOO HIGH or you are lighting up the trees and not the road.

 

[melvimbe]

If you don't have a flat driveway 25 ft long, try a nearby school, as they tend to have flat parking lots and lots of walls. You may have to take the curb height into account. This is what I did for my fog lights (which probably need to be adjusted again).

So on the V2 lights, you would still measure to the center of the top beam (and subtract 2 in) to get your #, correct? Also, I'd assume you adjust the high beams, and wouldn't need to, based on how they are integrated?

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

I actually measured from the top of the bottom 2 and 2" down. This way I wasn't so high. I originally did the top one and felt it was too high.

Correct, no separate high beam adjustment, which makes it easier.