Messiest oil change yet!

[wheelman55]

Yes. I've been using it on two oil changes so far. About to be my third in a few hundred miles.

Thanks. I picked mine up yesterday with 26 miles on it. Will use the filter you've recommended.

 

[THUMPER]

hold the throttle on the floor and press the start button. This will cause the motor to spin over but not fire. You press the start button again to get it to stop turning over. I did this three times for 3-5 seconds each in order to get the new oil pumped into the filter and oil galleries before I started it for real.

Just hold the throttle at WOT without touching brake pedal? Just a little nervous of the engine starting up and revving up all hell! LOL , just wanted to clarify on this very valuable information.Thanks!!!!

 

[BurnOut]

Just hold the throttle at WOT without touching brake pedal? Just a little nervous of the engine starting up and revving up all hell! LOL , just wanted to clarify on this very valuable information.Thanks!!!!

You have to hold both the brake (to let the truck know that it's okay to spin the motor), and the throttle must be on the floor. Press the start button once to get the motor turning over, and a second time to get it to stop.

As I mentioned, I do 2-3 cycles of this (with a 5-10 second pause between to let the starter cool a touch) at a few seconds each after doing an oil change.

 

[Mahoney]

Just hold the throttle at WOT without touching brake pedal? Just a little nervous of the engine starting up and revving up all hell! LOL , just wanted to clarify on this very valuable information.Thanks!!!!

What this does is the PCM shuts off fuel delivery to the injector so it does not fire.

 

[BurnOut]

What this does is the PCM shuts off fuel delivery to the injector so it does not fire.

^^This.^^

FWIW, I found out about this little trick while hanging out at a shop that hops up Corvettes... so it's not a Ford-only thing. I haven't tried it on the wife's Hyaundai, but I'd be surprised if it didn't work there, as well.

 

[robbcwz]

I don't see the logic in this. Seems like the oil would start to be lifted from the sump to the oil pump but then when you stopped cranking it most would drain back to the sump with very little reaching the filter. I have always just started the motor and the oil pressure builds almost instantaneously; do this with the Raptor and have done it for many years on other vehicles. I think the way suggested above would cause more damage than just starting the engine.

 

[BurnOut]

I don't see the logic in this. Seems like the oil would start to be lifted from the sump to the oil pump but then when you stopped cranking it most would drain back to the sump with very little reaching the filter. I have always just started the motor and the oil pressure builds almost instantaneously; do this with the Raptor and have done it for many years on other vehicles. I think the way suggested above would cause more damage than just starting the engine.

Turning the motor over without it firing is much gentler on parts than having a cylinder (or 6) fire off a few dozen times on dry bearings (well, bearings with only oil film on them, anyhow). Additionally, there really isn't enough air moving through the hot side of the turbos while you're cranking to get 'em spinning at significant RPM... so cranking without firing to get the filter/galleries filled and up to pressure is your best bet for minimizing wear.

During normal cold starts, it's the anti-drain back valve in the filter that keeps the oil in the galleries, ready to lubricate everything as soon as the motor spins over more than a few times.

 

[Spartan1]

See attached.

Is this filter FL820 better than the FL500s? Does anyone have any more information on this?

 

[dewalt]

https://www.nospillsystems.com/products-parts.cfm

A lot of heavy equipment is using these.

 

[robbcwz]

https://www.nospillsystems.com/products-parts.cfm

A lot of heavy equipment is using these.

These are "regular" threaded style; the Raptor is a partial turn, coarse threaded plastic plug. i.e. These don't work for us.

---------- Post added at 05:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:15 PM ----------

Turning the motor over without it firing is much gentler on parts than having a cylinder (or 6) fire off a few dozen times on dry bearings (well, bearings with only oil film on them, anyhow). Additionally, there really isn't enough air moving through the hot side of the turbos while you're cranking to get 'em spinning at significant RPM... so cranking without firing to get the filter/galleries filled and up to pressure is your best bet for minimizing wear.

During normal cold starts, it's the anti-drain back valve in the filter that keeps the oil in the galleries, ready to lubricate everything as soon as the motor spins over more than a few times.

We'll just agree to disagree. I fire up and get pressure in fractional seconds; your way you rotate it 3 times for 5 seconds-each getting limited to zero pressure and so you spend probably three times the amount of time I do spinning on a limited oil film. I think, in your case, pre-charging is a solution looking for a problem.

The main reason for the anti-drain valve is to keep oil primed for the cam phasers and the heads; the turbos are sitting in residual oil baths and are less dependent on the instantaneous oil flow.

Also a significant number of manufacturers - and Ford is included - have engines where the oil filter is on the top side of the engine and drain down every time the engine stops (think: stop-start feature issues!) and yet these engines seem not to suffer regardless. In the very rare cases where establishing the oil flow and pressure is super critical (industrial, heavy duty, etc) the manufacturer will install a pre-start, electrically driven auxiliary oil pump.

In the end, it each to his own and what we think works best for ourselves.

Good luck, though.