GEN 2 Memphis Stereo Upgrade

[The Car Stereo Company]

Simply mind blowing! It never ceases to amaze me what people are able to do with their vehicles. After reading so many posts about simple stock speaker upgrades this brings it to an entire new level, at least to me. People are afraid to cut and splice let alone 1/10 of what you have done.

I have a 18 with the B&O system and it leaves a LOT to be desired.

I am a simple 2 channel Mcintosh home stereo owner and I have done some upgrades, wires, Power Company distribution block ,dedicated single circuit etc. and the time I spent reading and learning about how to get the system set up correctly and upgrading leads, power cords etc.

The one plus is that Mcintosh factory repair center is about 2 miles from my house and I was able to learn so much from them but I'm still at the first grade level compared to you guys and what you have done

My hat`s is off to you, and I can't imagine how that system in your truck must sound, awesome

i got a guy in jersey i did a system and tuning for. i can put you in touch with him if you want to take a listen

 

[Drgonzo3000]

Big discovery, all of the noise is coming from the stock HU and the Stinger interconnect RCA's. I went and removed the DSP and ran the HU low level into the Stinger RCA's and found I still had all of the noise. Disconnected the RCA's at the amp and the noise was gone. Connected just the Stinger RCA's to the amps and disconnected at the HU and noise. So I bypassed the Stinger RCA's and just ran an RCA from the HU to the amp and got a bunch of noise when the HU is connected. The Stinger RCA's and adding a high pitch noise into the system when connected and the HU is adding a mid level and crackle.

So I went to test the DSP, hooked it up to an external power supply, ran a portable music player into it and then into the amp. No noise and the sound is clear.






So I misdiagnosed the DSP and the problem is an issue with the Stinger RCA's and low level noise from the HU. No clue how to fix the HU noise. Going to try to switch back to high level and test with a PAC I have sitting here.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

what inputs are you using?

Big discovery, all of the noise is coming from the stock HU and the Stinger interconnect RCA's. I went and removed the DSP and ran the HU low level into the Stinger RCA's and found I still had all of the noise. Disconnected the RCA's at the amp and the noise was gone. Connected just the Stinger RCA's to the amps and disconnected at the HU and noise. So I bypassed the Stinger RCA's and just ran an RCA from the HU to the amp and got a bunch of noise when the HU is connected. The Stinger RCA's and adding a high pitch noise into the system when connected and the HU is adding a mid level and crackle.

So I went to test the DSP, hooked it up to an external power supply, ran a portable music player into it and then into the amp. No noise and the sound is clear.

View attachment 163396




So I misdiagnosed the DSP and the problem is an issue with the Stinger RCA's and low level noise from the HU. No clue how to fix the HU noise. Going to try to switch back to high level and test with a PAC I have sitting here.

 

[Drgonzo3000]

what inputs are you using?

Was testing strictly with the fronts

Reverted ACM back to stock, plugged in a PAC and got noise. Connected the speakers back to just the HU and there is noise. So the noise is coming from the HU itself. Regardless hi/low level I can't get a clean noise free signal.

Removed the T harness and connected HU back to stock plug, still noise and crackle. Pretty much have to put your ear right up to the door panel to hear it, but it's enough noise to be really bad when amplified. fact that it's still present when converted to low level means something is bad in the unit prior to the built in amp. The noise is best described like an analog record player with a skip every second. Fact that I get the noise with zero volume means there is not much I can do to try and tune it out.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

there is the possibility you might need load resistors, however i have never seen it needed on fords. usually cars like alfa and other vehicles that run data through the sound system. im not familiar with the dayton processor, can you run high level signal into the rca inputs?

 

[Drgonzo3000]

I got the high level inputs working on the dsp. The high level is much cleaner than the low level. I was able to tune out about 95% of the noise with input adjustments so thats good. I'll just need to go into forscan and disable the EQ again. I hope that affects high level also and not just low level output.

As for the RCA noise. I started pulling the RCA to see if there was a specific spot introducing noise, or if it was just the cable itself. Got the wire pulled all the way back to the rear corner and found the problem. The damn stock Sub plug has a mag field between it and the harness running up the pillar. I had the wires run between the plug and pillar.

Wires in place and lots of noise.


Wire moved to the other side of the plug and no RCA noise. ARGH!!!




Now I just to get everything back together and test again as I go to make sure I don't hit anymore mag fields to screw up the signal.

 

[Hush Car Audio]

It's always good practice to keep all power/ground lines away from any signal lines.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Dear God, I would just shoot myself or I would start punching stuff, lol. I still don't see the difference in the 2 pictures

 

[Drgonzo3000]

It's always good practice to keep all power/ground lines away from any signal lines.

Ohh I do, Power/ground is all on the passenger side, signal on drivers side. I just didn't think about the stock Sub wires running down the driver side also. Weird is that since there is nothing hooked up to that plug there shouldn't be any current running through it. It's a dead plug so you would think there would be a field around it.

Dear God, I would just shoot myself or I would start punching stuff, lol. I still don't see the difference in the 2 pictures

The position of the red/black flat wire bundle. that's the stinger interconnect RCA's. First pic it's on the left of the plug and I got noise, second pic it's on the right side and no noise.


It's actually a good thing I had to pull the RCA's and rerun them cause I found this shit left from the previous owners install. Running the RCA's down more under the carpet, going by the driver's seat I found 2 holes drilled all the way through the body and sanded down to metal. I guessing this was their idea of a ground location. Sealed the holes with silicone and taped over it so it can fully cure and not stick to the carpet.




Then I find that the drivers footwell carpet is soaking wet. We have had a lot o rain but I have Husky mats and they have not been that wet. Start searching around and find a massive slice in the firewall grommet which I guessing was how they ran their power wire to the battery. Just sliced it right open. Of course that grommet is right behind the wheel so water is always going to be hitting it when driving in the rain. Outside is a little cleaner or a cut but they opened the nub at the top, so it's just catching water and directing it right into the cabin. ******* Morons!





Sealed the inside slice up with some 3m butyl tape. Sealed the engine bay side with silicone.

Almost to the point I need to strip the truck to see what other hidden treasures the previous owner left me. :facepalm

 

[goblues38]

seriously...this is why i would gladly pay $1,000 if i had to for a zen. ($500 was nice though) 100% digital signal without the hassle of converting high level down to low level.

being able to use a factory stereo and clean inputs to an aftermarket amp was the holy grail back in the 80's and 90's. and it couldnt be done. Now it is at least possible.