6.2 Looking for new side exit Black tip Exhaust kit with NO DRONE

[SuplexTreatment]

Where did you put it? I haven't heard any difference with it.

Inside and out of doors, under floor, rear of cab, and above headliner. Above headliner is layered with DynaLiner 1/2".The Stainless Works Headers and exit in front of right rear wheel drone bad but not anymore. Its all about attention to detail. I'll only do one door in a day.

 

[B E N]

25% coverage on the dynamat is all you need. Place it on the portions of the sheet metal that are furthest from supports. If you knock on the panel with your knuckle every time you add a chunk you will quickly be able to tell when you have hit the threshold, make sure you are pressing it on thoroughly, if it isn't stuck down well it wont work. Dynamat doesn't absorb or block noise in the frequency spectrum your interested in but it will keep the panels from resonating and amplifying it. Start with whatever dampener (dynamat, KnoNoise, whatever) and see how you like that, if your still not satisfied mass loaded vinyl over an isolator in the doors, rear of the cab and floors really helps, then some hydrophobic melamine for absorbtion, preferably in the roof and kick panels. I've done this treatment on a few vehicles, even the 78 f150 turbocharged 460 with 5" exhaust is nice to be in... so long as you have the windows up.

 

[EricM]

25% coverage on the dynamat is all you need. Place it on the portions of the sheet metal that are furthest from supports. If you knock on the panel with your knuckle every time you add a chunk you will quickly be able to tell when you have hit the threshold, make sure you are pressing it on thoroughly, if it isn't stuck down well it wont work. Dynamat doesn't absorb or block noise in the frequency spectrum your interested in but it will keep the panels from resonating and amplifying it. Start with whatever dampener (dynamat, KnoNoise, whatever) and see how you like that, if your still not satisfied mass loaded vinyl over an isolator in the doors, rear of the cab and floors really helps, then some hydrophobic melamine for absorbtion, preferably in the roof and kick panels. I've done this treatment on a few vehicles, even the 78 f150 turbocharged 460 with 5" exhaust is nice to be in... so long as you have the windows up.

I "hear" what you are saying, and even though that's not what it's technically for, adding Dynamat will still noticeably reduce noise transfer from outside the vehicle. Sound waves are definitely attenuated traveling through a layer of Dynamat.

 

[B E N]

I "hear" what you are saying, and even though that's not what it's technically for, adding Dynamat will still noticeably reduce noise transfer from outside the vehicle. Sound waves are definitely attenuated traveling through a layer of Dynamat.

I agree, but once you hit 25% on the dampner your at diminishing returns, its .45 lbs/square foot and non isolated, MLV at 1 Lb/sq ft over a decoupler is much more effective at about the same cost per square foot. Doing entire panels in Dynamat is a waste of weight and resources, you will never realize the gains you can by using the right treatments for the space and application.

Installing whatever dampner to 25% coverage, then a layer of MLV and a decoupler will do a lot more. The only real advantage I see to dynamat over 25% is if you need to seal something for corrosion protection. Air sealing and rattle stopping are better done with butyl rope, MLV is superior for sound blocking, hydrophobic melamine is better for absorption, dedicated heat barriers are better for temperature control.

 

[Gary E]

I agree, but once you hit 25% on the dampner your at diminishing returns, its .45 lbs/square foot and non isolated, MLV at 1 Lb/sq ft over a decoupler is much more effective at about the same cost per square foot. Doing entire panels in Dynamat is a waste of weight and resources, you will never realize the gains you can by using the right treatments for the space and application.

Installing whatever dampner to 25% coverage, then a layer of MLV and a decoupler will do a lot more. The only real advantage I see to dynamat over 25% is if you need to seal something for corrosion protection. Air sealing and rattle stopping are better done with butyl rope, MLV is superior for sound blocking, hydrophobic melamine is better for absorption, dedicated heat barriers are better for temperature control.

What decoupler is used with the MLV?

 

[B E N]

Usually a closed cell foam or neoprene, light weight, non absorbent and produces an air gap to separate the panel from the mass layer. You can also get pre-bonded noise isolators, luxury liner pro is an example of this but it is expensive, it does save some installation time though. MLV is generally available at major construction stores as it is used for noise isolation in commercial applications, you can also sometimes find a deal on it via ebay or local craigslist. Shipping is the real killer on MLV, so sourcing it locally brings the price down dramatically. The CCF or neoprene can be bought by the yard and is inexpensive to ship.

 

[Gary E]

Usually a closed cell foam or neoprene, light weight, non absorbent and produces an air gap to separate the panel from the mass layer. You can also get pre-bonded noise isolators, luxury liner pro is an example of this but it is expensive, it does save some installation time though. MLV is generally available at major construction stores as it is used for noise isolation in commercial applications, you can also sometimes find a deal on it via ebay or local craigslist. Shipping is the real killer on MLV, so sourcing it locally brings the price down dramatically. The CCF or neoprene can be bought by the yard and is inexpensive to ship.

Where does Damplifier Pro fit in with MLV and Hydrophobic Melamine?

 

[B E N]

It is equivalent to dynamat extreme.