Lights Block Air Flow?

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FordTechOne

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Yes, a ‘19. Never looked before but what is the stock manifold charge temp range so I can compare?
It will vary based on load and ambient temperature, so they don’t provide a range, only estimates. Estimates under average conditions are 70 degrees at a 30MPH cruise and 77 degrees at a 55MPH cruise. If you’re sitting in traffic on a hot day though you’re going to see 100+.
 
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V6Raptor

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It will vary based on load and ambient temperature, so they don’t provide a range, only estimates. Estimates under average conditions are 70 degrees at a 30MPH cruise and 77 degrees at a 55MPH cruise. If you’re sitting in traffic on a hot day though you’re going to see 100+.

Okay perfect. I’ll give it a run today and see what numbers I get.
 

nikhsub1

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On Gen 1 F-150 EcoBoost (11-16), the license plate bracket was offset to one side of the front bumper to allow full airflow to the charge air cooler. There were instances where the incorrect bumper with a center mount bracket was installed after an accident, etc and the plate blocked the CAC. Under a load, such as pulling a hill in high temps, towing, etc. the engine would sustain internal damage, which of course wasn’t covered under warranty.

Adding any blockage in front of the CAC on these trucks is going to be detrimental to performance, to what extent I don’t know.
Well, the one clue is that the IC has fans on it... never a good sign. As a matter of fact, in the manual it actually says to REMOVE the front license plate if running the truck hard offroad as performance will be severely impacted otherwise.

Following up on my post after having my bumper swapped and four LP9s added on top, in front of the grill/intercooler.

I haven’t driven through high temps yet but so far, not seeing any issues of overheating/loss of power/etc.
I'd have to see a pic but the worst offenders are the behind the grill light bars... they redirect airflow in a very bad way. These trucks can get hot depending on the circumstances. I have a Full Race FMIC and a 170 degree thermostat. Normally, around town the truck displays 185 ish. The last summer we drove a bunch in the southwest. Ambient temps reached 110+. On the highway going up a grade at 80MPH I would see coolant temps climb to 220 ish which is still in the acceptable range, with lights redirecting airflow I'm pretty sure that number would be higher.
 

smurfslayer

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A FMIC isn’t doing the engine operating temps any favors either, not only are you obstructing the airflow, minimally but distinct, but you’re also raising the temp of the air coming in to the grille itself at least somewhat, before entering the radiator. That said, IIUC the normal running conditions would likely have minimal impact, maybe some reduced CFM but the ambient entry to exit temp difference won’t be much. But when you cane it, air passing through the FMIC will exit at a higher than ambient temp. It may be negligible in most cases but under load it’s going to be there.

little things add up.

I had a ’70 Olds 442, 455ci/TH400. Post rebuild, I ran into periodic cooling issues, only when I hammered it over and over. I still had the stock fan which was almost 20 years old. With a little digging, I found an Olds 98 or Toranado radiator with more capacity and - bonus - bolts right in to the A body GM! I procured one, installed and better, but still not great or at least as great as I thought it should be. Someone convinced me to get a flex fan to replace the stocker. Huge improvement, and loud as ****. Then things went south again. I scratched my head for a while to find this, but I had installed the radiator shroud just a little bit off. Enough that when I revved the engine, it torqued, settled and ran the solid mount flex fan into the bottom of the shroud, shredding it. At first I didn’t see it and for a couple weeks I was thinking I hadn’t made any improvements. Then I found the shroud and, because I was still young and knew everything, dismissed it as “it can’t be that”. It was. someone schooled me, I reinstalled the new shroud and ensured I had enough relief for engine torquing, I think also did solid motor mounts too, buttoned it up and it ran a solid, steady temp with only minimal fluctuation.

I can see how large lights and other obstructions would impact the Rap.
 

nikhsub1

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A FMIC isn’t doing the engine operating temps any favors either, not only are you obstructing the airflow, minimally but distinct, but you’re also raising the temp of the air coming in to the grille itself at least somewhat, before entering the radiator. That said, IIUC the normal running conditions would likely have minimal impact, maybe some reduced CFM but the ambient entry to exit temp difference won’t be much. But when you cane it, air passing through the FMIC will exit at a higher than ambient temp. It may be negligible in most cases but under load it’s going to be there.
Stacking heat exchangers is a non issue... many OEMs stack radiators and intercoolers.
 

smurfslayer

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Stacking heat exchangers is a non issue... many OEMs stack radiators and intercoolers.
Got it.

So the guys and gals here who have posted about overheating while running FMIC, sometimes with, sometimes without lights, they were non-issues.

;)
 

nikhsub1

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Got it.

So the guys and gals here who have posted about overheating while running FMIC, sometimes with, sometimes without lights, they were non-issues.

;)
I can't remember anyone overheating with an FMIC and nothing else in the grill. If so, please point me so we can investigate.
 

Reaper308

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This is my lighting set up and have never had any overheating issue at all maybe I’m luck!
1648862101912.jpeg
 
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V6Raptor

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It will vary based on load and ambient temperature, so they don’t provide a range, only estimates. Estimates under average conditions are 70 degrees at a 30MPH cruise and 77 degrees at a 55MPH cruise. If you’re sitting in traffic on a hot day though you’re going to see 100+.
Did a little bit of driving yesterday and the truck was reading 62F ambient temp @ 50MPH, manifold temp low 87 and high 111.
 
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