Do you have a name for this hybrid you referenced? I've got some reverse lights and an S8 waiting for me at home, maybe I'll try some and post on how the install goes. Thanks FTO!
@Mike O beat me to it, reference his post above for the link.
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Do you have a name for this hybrid you referenced? I've got some reverse lights and an S8 waiting for me at home, maybe I'll try some and post on how the install goes. Thanks FTO!
Smurf. I installed a weatherproof relay for my BU lights on the passenger side firewall. It’s stayed nice and dry.I’ll pile on to what’s been said previously.
I wired in a relay to my rear facing squadrons to run on up fitter 6 + reverse. I got weather proof relays or relays with weather proof housing. It worked great until about the dozenth rain storm and one night I noticed my neighbor’s lawn lit up. I thought it was motion lights and didn’t think anything of it. This repeated over the course of a couple days and I noticed it again, realized it was the truck, found the rear facing squadrons proudly illuminating my neighbor’s half acre. puzzled, I cycled the relay and it went off. I made a note to check/replace the relay the upcoming weekend. Next morning, there they are again. I didn’t want to be blasting the drivers behind me, so I pulled power to the lights. Pulled the relay apart and the weather proof connectors were not. The relays was wet and had corroded connectors. it was on maybe... 2 months?
It was placed pretty high up near the bumper, the truck wasn’t submerged or anything. I wrapped the new assembly to keep the water intrusion down, and that’s done the trick well.
Dielectric grease is silicone-based grease that repels moisture and prevents electrical connections from corroding.
The grease is a non-conductor of electricity. You are therefore advised not to apply it on mating surfaces of electrical connection.
At the connection is the key, plugs as you stated.
Hi.... so which ones are the best for the uplifter switches ? ThanksAlways use a quality connector. I like 3M. In a previous life I was a wire wiggler for ATT, worked there for 30 years so I know a little bit about wire connections after making a few hundred thousand. You name the type of connection and I've probably done it.
Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C3NBTJ9/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
I have these and have been really happy. I take it a bit further and heat shrink over it. Not necessary, but I like the extra support and it looks clean.
Hi.... so which ones are the best for the uplifter switches ? Thanks
We've been through this multiple times. The factory wires on the AUX switches are very small gauge...some would say tiny. Best practice calls for adding a relay, which the tiny factory wires can easily power.Top Tip:
Upfitter switches are prewired with relays and fused as well.
We've been through this multiple times. The factory wires on the AUX switches are very small gauge...some would say tiny. Best practice calls for adding a relay, which the tiny factory wires can easily power.
Dblack. Do some research on the forum. Answers are here. I’ve posted some of them.I get that the solder butt connectors are good connectors and have used them before.
I'm wondering what other options you would recommend? The issue I have with the butt connectors are that the upfitter wires are fixed length, so I'd hate to have to cut them and re-solder something, making them shorter and shorter over time if I change my setup.
I'd rather either use the connectors I initially posted, or a bullet-style connector that would allow me to make changes if I were to add additional objects that need an upfitter switch. Just wondering if there are any other options I haven't considered.