Light Wiring Advice

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FordTechOne

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i find it funny that every connection by an auto manufacturer is a crimp connection yet they want you to solder......

Hmm...are you referring to the pins being crimped to the wire in the connectors? The heavy gauge wires (battery cables) are crimped, but there are published procedures to crimp them for service as well. I suppose I was more referring to the average circuit repair, in which soldering is often the required method.
 

The Car Stereo Company

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Hmm...are you referring to the pins being crimped to the wire in the connectors? The heavy gauge wires (battery cables) are crimped, but there are published procedures to crimp them for service as well. I suppose I was more referring to the average circuit repair, in which soldering is often the required method.
yeah, all the oem wires have crimped pins or spades on the end from any auto manufacturer that i have seen
 

Mariners Fan

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Those "Posi-Product" connectors are nothing more than glorified wire nuts, which have zero place in any automotive application. When you're working with 12V and the harsh environmental conditions that vehicles endure (heat, cold, movement, vibration, moisture, corrosion, etc.), you need a weatherproof butt connector at minimum. Soldering with heat shrink is the most reliable connection, and the only method approved by most OEs. There is a new product on the market that offers a hybrid between a butt connector and soldering; the connector has a solder ring in the center, and the solder melts when heat is applied. Haven't used it myself, but it appears to be the best alternative to traditional soldering.
Do you have a name for this hybrid you referenced? I've got some reverse lights and an S8 waiting for me at home, maybe I'll try some and post on how the install goes. Thanks FTO!
 

Mike O

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fordfreek

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I installed Baja designs squadron pro spot, combo,and s1 wide cornering lights on my 2020 and used switches 3,4 and 5 respectively. Used a 3 terminal deutsch connector for the positive leads and made my own ground. Fortunately I tested the leads on the truck before hooking them up as the upfitter switch wires and the pass thru wires were located in the opposite location when referring to the owners manual. Purchased the triple bezel kit from off-road alliance. Very pleased with it so far.
 

TwizzleStix

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…. There is a new product on the market that offers a hybrid between a butt connector and soldering; the connector has a solder ring in the center, and the solder melts when heat is applied. Haven't used it myself, but it appears to be the best alternative to traditional soldering.

Actually this heat-shrink-solder butt-splice has been in use in the aircraft industry for decades. I've used them literally in the thousands during modifications and repairs. We call them "Boeing" splices, I think because Boeing developed them in the ancient past, but I don't know that for sure. Anyway, they are as permanent and even better than manual-solder then apply heat shrink. For automotive work I use over-the-counter crimp-shrink environmental butt-splices with zero problems after decades of use. I generally don't recommend crimp splices because most people (even "professionals") can't prepare the wire and crimp them properly and provide correct support for the wire/bundle, so as a result of their assembly problem, crimp splices are frowned upon. YMMV
 

smurfslayer

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I’ll pile on to what’s been said previously.
I wired in a relay to my rear facing squadrons to run on up fitter 6 + reverse. I got weather proof relays or relays with weather proof housing. It worked great until about the dozenth rain storm and one night I noticed my neighbor’s lawn lit up. I thought it was motion lights and didn’t think anything of it. This repeated over the course of a couple days and I noticed it again, realized it was the truck, found the rear facing squadrons proudly illuminating my neighbor’s half acre. puzzled, I cycled the relay and it went off. I made a note to check/replace the relay the upcoming weekend. Next morning, there they are again. I didn’t want to be blasting the drivers behind me, so I pulled power to the lights. Pulled the relay apart and the weather proof connectors were not. The relays was wet and had corroded connectors. it was on maybe... 2 months?
It was placed pretty high up near the bumper, the truck wasn’t submerged or anything. I wrapped the new assembly to keep the water intrusion down, and that’s done the trick well.
 
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