KHC top shock mount conversion

[Jakenbake]

@Canuck714 any update on this? Appreciate it!

Figuring out what spring rate on the gen2’s would be a good start. My king 3.0 OEM replacements have a 600lbs/in. And I believe they are 16” long too (from memory).

 

[Canuck714]

@Canuck714 any update on this? Appreciate it!

Hey guys, sorry have not checked this thread in a while.
To answer Augster's questions, I had a set of Gen 2 3.0 FOX shocks and that was the impetus for the conversion in the first place.
Look at my post earlier in the thread and you will notice the Gen 2 shocks as well as my thoughts on the stiffer Eibach springs that I tried. I did the buckets on a 5.0 Coyote and pretty sure that engine is already lighter than an Eco-Poop so I was not remotely worried about the weight difference. In fact when I added the Eibach's to get closer to level the ride was too stiff which leads me to believe the Coyote is lighter on the nose. On the scales this truck was 5200 lbs with me in it!!

Off-road the truck drove and acted just like a Gen 2. Not as good as my built Gen 1 with Kings, but similar to a stock truck. It should be, since it was all stock Gen 2 suspension under it.
Would I do all that work again just to run stock suspension... HELL NO, but I had a lot of the parts so it seemed like a fun project. It would have cost more to do Gen 1 3.0's but they would have been better than stock Gen 2 3.0's


The best part of the truck was the 7200 rpm Coyote..lol

 

[WHBD]

So, i have a 2014 with an ADD Lite front bumper(not all that heavy). I also have a pair of 2020 Live Valves(deleted) with Eibachs. Should I be good to go to get the KHC conversion buckets and mount these up? Would I be better off with different springs beforehand?

 

[Augster]

I did the buckets on a 5.0 Coyote and pretty sure that engine is already lighter than an Eco-Poop so I was not remotely worried about the weight difference. In fact when I added the Eibach's to get closer to level the ride was too stiff which leads me to believe the Coyote is lighter on the nose. On the scales this truck was 5200 lbs with me in it!!

This adds immense clarification, so thanks!

I'm leaning towards KHC buckets and King Gen 2 3.0's; just have to decide whether to stick with the "regular" springs King throws on the Gen 2's, or upgrade to heavier springs for my 6.2L...

 

[Canuck714]

This adds immense clarification, so thanks!

I'm leaning towards KHC buckets and King Gen 2 3.0's; just have to decide whether to stick with the "regular" springs King throws on the Gen 2's, or upgrade to heavier springs for my 6.2L...

The Kings are already a stiffer spring rate than a factory Fox 3.0... plus you can fine tune with preload. You wont need to go stiffer.
I run King 3.0 and a 3.0 Bypass on my Gen 1 6.2 and the spring rate I believe is a 600. Stock is 525 or 550lb

Are you leaning towards Gen 2 Kings so you can get their newer internal bypass design?
Just asking, as there are still good options out there for the Gen 1 and save you from cutting the bucket to gain 3/4 inch of travel.

 

[Augster]

The Kings are already a stiffer spring rate than a factory Fox 3.0... plus you can fine tune with preload. You wont need to go stiffer.
I run King 3.0 and a 3.0 Bypass on my Gen 1 6.2 and the spring rate I believe is a 600. Stock is 525 or 550lb

Are you leaning towards Gen 2 Kings so you can get their newer internal bypass design?
Just asking, as there are still good options out there for the Gen 1 and save you from cutting the bucket to gain 3/4 inch of travel.

For the newer design; the minimal travel range doesn't really mean much to me, though it doesn't hurt. It's cutting the bucket that has kept me on the fence as it's essentially an irreversible modification, but this is not some rare classic muscle car like my 1966 Mustang GT 2+2 (which already has been heavily modified with fiberglas flares and fenders) so that's not the issue. It's more so the potential for adding a weak point to the suspension as I will go bolt-on route (though, it could later be welded in).

 

[Jakenbake]

For the newer design; the minimal travel range doesn't really mean much to me, though it doesn't hurt. It's cutting the bucket that has kept me on the fence as it's essentially an irreversible modification, but this is not some rare classic muscle car like my 1966 Mustang GT 2+2 (which already has been heavily modified with fiberglas flares and fenders) so that's not the issue. It's more so the potential for adding a weak point to the suspension as I will go bolt-on route (though, it could later be welded in).

If it makes you feel any better, it isn’t exactly irreversible. You are installing a new coil bucket when you cut the existing one off to install the gen 2 coil bucket. So there really isn’t any reason you couldn’t do the same again but with the gen 1 coil bucket. Only caveat would be if there is low supply/hard to find.

 

[Augster]

If it makes you feel any better, it isn’t exactly irreversible. You are installing a new coil bucket when you cut the existing one off to install the gen 2 coil bucket. So there really isn’t any reason you couldn’t do the same again but with the gen 1 coil bucket. Only caveat would be if there is low supply/hard to find.

A Gen 1/F150 bucket? I'm not sure one exists, but regardless, my concern is structural strength with a bolt-on bucket as I won't be welding it in until I regain some experience with my MIG welder which has been sitting in my garage for 30 years and want to destroy the nice powder coating of a KHC bucket.

 

[Canuck714]

A Gen 1/F150 bucket? I'm not sure one exists, but regardless, my concern is structural strength with a bolt-on bucket as I won't be welding it in until I regain some experience with my MIG welder which has been sitting in my garage for 30 years and want to destroy the nice powder coating of a KHC bucket.

I ran mine bolted in for a year. Jumped it and never had any issues with strength or movement. I did run a bead down the sides just to make sure it cant move.