dday
Member
Hey all,
dealing with a head scratcher. I have a 23 F-150 Raptor with (formerly) B&O stereo. System details NavTv sourcing everything from factory HU, JL Audio VX600.6 running 3.5inch Focal K2 WM, 1" K2 tweeters and rear 6.5in Focal flax coax. Front doors are K2 Power 2ohm 6.5 on a JL Audio 600.2 both amps connected by a JL Hub, subs are 2 8W7's on a JL 1200 HD, not connected to the hub.
Power is Kicker OFC 1/0 both power and ground ran to the battery broken out in the back with a distro block with 8awg feeders to amps.
Voltage with the truck off at the distro block is 14.7 (no music playing). Over the last month or so I've had a few weird issues, one being random sub pop, doesn't happen 99% of the time very random. Another time I got in the truck and no audio, amps were on, just no audio, door chimes and other truck sounds worked, 30 min later everything worked fine. Now today I get in, everything works, run an errand get back in no door speakers, come home troubleshoot, 600.2 isn't on. Meter voltage at block 14.7 before the fuse, check voltage at amp plug 13.8 and solid remote 14.7. Tinker with wires, shut off truck and allow it to go to sleep, open the door and notice the 600.2 blinks blue twice and shuts off. Get frustrated and start googling things, come back later and 600.2 is on and playing.
Few hours later need to run another errand, no door speakers, amps off, get back in 45 min later and everything's fine.
The only odd thing I'm seeing is when I measure voltage before the fuse on this specific amp i'm getting 14.7 but after the fuse it's 13.8, none of the other fuses are doing that, I will swap the fuse just kind of over it for the day.
Another less than ideal thing is the 600.6 uses the navtv remote, the 600.2 uses the remote out from the 600.6 and the 1200 uses the remote out from the 600.2 daisy chained if you will instead of the 2 slave amps using the 600.6's remote, I'll correct that when it's warmer.
Regardless, I hope this 600.2 isn't crapping out, I got in new in November'ish even though they're discontinued, it had clearly been sitting in a backroom for awhile.
Any suggestions? I cannot find any obvious wiring issues, all connections are ferruled and heat shrunk, the speaker splices are bullets I plan to soldier this summer after my next upgrade, otherwise there is nothing physically wrong that I'm seeing, just that amp not coming on properly.
Thanks
dealing with a head scratcher. I have a 23 F-150 Raptor with (formerly) B&O stereo. System details NavTv sourcing everything from factory HU, JL Audio VX600.6 running 3.5inch Focal K2 WM, 1" K2 tweeters and rear 6.5in Focal flax coax. Front doors are K2 Power 2ohm 6.5 on a JL Audio 600.2 both amps connected by a JL Hub, subs are 2 8W7's on a JL 1200 HD, not connected to the hub.
Power is Kicker OFC 1/0 both power and ground ran to the battery broken out in the back with a distro block with 8awg feeders to amps.
Voltage with the truck off at the distro block is 14.7 (no music playing). Over the last month or so I've had a few weird issues, one being random sub pop, doesn't happen 99% of the time very random. Another time I got in the truck and no audio, amps were on, just no audio, door chimes and other truck sounds worked, 30 min later everything worked fine. Now today I get in, everything works, run an errand get back in no door speakers, come home troubleshoot, 600.2 isn't on. Meter voltage at block 14.7 before the fuse, check voltage at amp plug 13.8 and solid remote 14.7. Tinker with wires, shut off truck and allow it to go to sleep, open the door and notice the 600.2 blinks blue twice and shuts off. Get frustrated and start googling things, come back later and 600.2 is on and playing.
Few hours later need to run another errand, no door speakers, amps off, get back in 45 min later and everything's fine.
The only odd thing I'm seeing is when I measure voltage before the fuse on this specific amp i'm getting 14.7 but after the fuse it's 13.8, none of the other fuses are doing that, I will swap the fuse just kind of over it for the day.
Another less than ideal thing is the 600.6 uses the navtv remote, the 600.2 uses the remote out from the 600.6 and the 1200 uses the remote out from the 600.2 daisy chained if you will instead of the 2 slave amps using the 600.6's remote, I'll correct that when it's warmer.
Regardless, I hope this 600.2 isn't crapping out, I got in new in November'ish even though they're discontinued, it had clearly been sitting in a backroom for awhile.
Any suggestions? I cannot find any obvious wiring issues, all connections are ferruled and heat shrunk, the speaker splices are bullets I plan to soldier this summer after my next upgrade, otherwise there is nothing physically wrong that I'm seeing, just that amp not coming on properly.
Thanks
