IWE - Grinding When Engaged

[elav]

Hello, I have a 2011 Raptor that wasn't put into 4wd a lot over the past 10'ish years. I seem to have the opposite issue than most. The 2wd works perfectly all the time. I get a grinding sound and the wrench shows up when I try to engage it into 4wd. The grinding sound is coming from the front passenger side I believe. It also takes a bit of time to get it out of 4wd after I try and engage it. What sensors are in the system that the wrench would show up? I'm thinking that I should start with testing the solenoid - as if the solenoid isn't fully working, it would allow a partial vacuum to still exist. Only other thing I can think of is the grease in the IWE actuator is sticking and keeping it from fully moving either way. Any thoughts?

 

[rschap1]

Mine was having issues when I got it.
The shift actuator motor on the transfer case wasn't doing what it was supposed to.
I tried to shift, shift, shift it and hoped it would free up.
It didn't.
Got a little scare when I bought a cheap china Amazon unit and still didn't fix the problem(s).
A better quality part fixed it.
I didn't have the grinding at all.
Wrench did light up.
It was a easy job.
Worst part of the whole thing was unthreading a wire from the weather pack connection and rethreading into the new.
Other than that, a couple mounting bolts and all better.
Good luck.

 

[FordTechOne]

The IWE solenoid is controlled by the TCCM, but should not set a wrench light in the event of a fault/DTC.

However, an issue with the transfer case shift motor will set the wrench. If you have ForScan, start by retrieving DTCs.

 

[elav]

FordTechOne - thank you for suggesting ForScan. I'm a Mac user but completely forgot I bought the OBD-II plug for this. I dusted off an OLD Windows laptop, had to manually load the USB driver, but got it working. You were 100% correct - P1867 - transfer case contact plate general circuit failure was the past failure. I seem to recall that you can remove the plate with the circuit and spin it - with the idea being that by spinning it, you can clean the contacts. Am I remembering this correctly? Does this work or am I better off simply replacing the transfer case shift motor?

 

[FordTechOne]

FordTechOne - thank you for suggesting ForScan. I'm a Mac user but completely forgot I bought the OBD-II plug for this. I dusted off an OLD Windows laptop, had to manually load the USB driver, but got it working. You were 100% correct - P1867 - transfer case contact plate general circuit failure was the past failure. I seem to recall that you can remove the plate with the circuit and spin it - with the idea being that by spinning it, you can clean the contacts. Am I remembering this correctly? Does this work or am I better off simply replacing the transfer case shift motor?

In my opinion once the t-case shift Motor contacts are worn it’s better to just replace it. Ideally get a Motorcraft unit, the majority of aftermarket ones last a year or two at best.

 

[elav]

Ordered! I plan on keeping this truck (although $0.50/mile at current gas prices makes it sit more than it should). Thanks for the help! Now if the local SnugTop dealer can get the replacement rod part - I'll be all set (I ordered it 6 months ago).

 

[WNCHSTR96]

Ordered! I plan on keeping this truck (although $0.50/mile at current gas prices makes it sit more than it should). Thanks for the help! Now if the local SnugTop dealer can get the replacement rod part - I'll be all set (I ordered it 6 months ago).

Congratulations on getting it properly diagnosed (thanks to @FordTechOne of course) But I’m more interested in your impressive claim of $0.50/mile! I’m averaging a $0.31 cost per mile.

 

[elav]

Congratulations on getting it properly diagnosed (thanks to @FordTechOne of course) But I’m more interested in your impressive claim of $0.50/mile! I’m averaging a $0.31 cost per mile.

I live in the Bay Area (California) - gas is $6.50 or higher here. I'm averaging 12.2 mpg (mostly city driving). BTW, I spoke too soon - I can't find the transfer case shift motor in stock on any of the places I order from and the local dealer wants $350 - which I prefer not to pay...

 

[pat247]

I live in the Bay Area (California) - gas is $6.50 or higher here. I'm averaging 12.2 mpg (mostly city driving). BTW, I spoke too soon - I can't find the transfer case shift motor in stock on any of the places I order from and the local dealer wants $350 - which I prefer not to pay...

Don't be afraid to ask the local ford dealer for a better price. Be polite and explain how you would preffer to support a local business rather than the internet. I have had good results with this approach.

 

[WNCHSTR96]

I live in the Bay Area (California) - gas is $6.50 or higher here. I'm averaging 12.2 mpg (mostly city driving). BTW, I spoke too soon - I can't find the transfer case shift motor in stock on any of the places I order from and the local dealer wants $350 - which I prefer not to pay...

I feel ya. I tell myself I will keep driving my Raptor even though I’m paying out the nose. As long as I have beer and gas money I feel I will be alright. Not sure where that breaking point is.