Icon stock replacements??

[mictouch]

I took my rears off with very few miles on them and cant get them to budge even with putting all my weight on them or no amount of grunting.

You don't weigh enough or have enough grunt in you - LOL Really, they will depress and like I said it takes a good grunt to get them to initially move. Your shocks are fine!!!!

 

[Squatting Dog]

Mine you could fully depress them with one had, no resistance at all! Both rears were like that with 15k miles one them..

-Greg (aka squatting dog)

 

[mictouch]

Mine you could fully depress them with one had, no resistance at all! Both rears were like that with 15k miles one them..

-Greg (aka squatting dog)

Yours need help - LOL

 

[Squatting Dog]

Yours need help - LOL

Mine have been replaced with ICONs.. Much gooder

-Greg (aka squatting dog)

 

[justvettn]

You don't weigh enough or have enough grunt in you - LOL Really, they will depress and like I said it takes a good grunt to get them to initially move. Your shocks are fine!!!!

I know they are fine they are brand new, but seriously they wont budge I weigh 220 pounds and strong as **** but cant get them to move.

 

[MTUH3]

Thanks for the tip. "Blown" was just me being lazy and using common jargon. But they just don't seem to be behaving like before. I will inspect them more closely.

And I wish I was on 3.0's and I would get there for sure, but from my rallycross point of view, I want to progress through the classes. I know there is a lot more in the truck than I was able to get out of it last month. When I feel my abilities are pushing the stock truck, then I will upgrade. (If I jump to Modified All Wheel Class I would not be competitive, but I can compete for podiums in both Stock and Prepared, by the end of the year I think.)

Bright side is that upgrading to ICON's all the way around, control arms, alignment shims, and a NA motor will still fit in the prepared class. Then I would have a truck that is competitive in the open trails and rallycross circuit.

As far as the stock shocks being BLOWN... I have pulled apart many sets and NEVER seen a BLOWN stock shock. In fact, I've only seen one shock that had a leaky o-ring and it lost 30 - 40cc of oil. The biggest culprit is leaking nitrogen. Inspect the shock and look for moisture, or mud. It is normal to see a little moisture where oil might be passing an o-ring around the steel body to the Aluminum cap. Not to worry this is totally normal. The nitrogen can be checked fairly easy and if it is low refill it back to 200 psi. If you see a big drool of oil and/or a puddle of mud around the front shocks then you will need them to be serviced. The rear shocks are easy to remove and depress the shock on the floor - it should take all your body weight plus some and an initial grunt to get them to move. They will only depress 2/3 of the way before the valving hits the bump zone and this will take A LOT more force than you can push by hand to depress the shock shaft past this point. Same with the front shocks if you remove them from the truck and remove the coil spring. The same force should be needed to depress them. Once the shock is refilled with nitrogen properly – you should be good to go! Try to keep them clean and check the nitrogen once a year if possible.

I hope this helps.

---------- Post added at 10:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:58 AM ----------



Yeah, thank you! Just lots of family medical issues! Just got back from the Mint 400 and we will be heading to the NORRA race and taking the Raptor all the way to Cabo.

Check out my latest pictures from the Mint 400 at Micro Touch, Inc. Photography | MINT 400 Race - 2013