Icon Springs on 3rd setting with MASSIVE rake ...

[adllewis42]

RPG’s new billet shackles only work with Deavers (from what I was told). And I am not sure if you really need to use shackles given all the weight that you have in the rear end. I mean do you really want to lower it an inch more?

Your topper and rack probably weigh at least 200 lbs

Decked systems weigh 220 lbs (before you stick any gear inside)

RTT is probably another 200 lbs at the minimum

Plus two fridges

By my calculations, you have to be at least over 800 lbs with all your gear (not including your dogs and your fridges being full). So based on the information that @RDFTS provided, you should only be at a 0.5” taller than stock with a 850 lb constant load. If you run shackles with that kind of weight, you are going to run the risk of having the opposite problem: your front end is going to sit much higher than your rear depending on what front set up you go with.

Lol I would get your truck weighed when you have everything in there where you can know for sure what your weight is.

View attachment 142469

Why would shackles only work with one brand of spring?

Regardless, I think I'd entertain that route in an effort to reduce the current height of the rear-end. I'm not going to do it right away and I'll give this all some time to settle but it's currently almost 4 inches higher in the rear than the front. Snugtop apparently says the cap is around 250, Baroud says the tent is around 150, Dometic says the fridge is 70 pounds with the slide being another 40, and then the drawers are 220. That's 730 and this thing is just REALLY high. I could consider a mild lift in the front (via Geiser or Eibach) but I'm not willing to raise it crazy high because I don't want to mess with CV angles too much. It seems like if I want to level it out, my best bet is to have a longer shackle in the rear with some springs up front. Shackle just seems like the easier place to start.

 

[Deleted member 17706]

Why would shackles only work with one brand of spring?

Regardless, I think I'd entertain that route in an effort to reduce the current height of the rear-end. I'm not going to do it right away and I'll give this all some time to settle but it's currently almost 4 inches higher in the rear than the front. Snugtop apparently says the cap is around 250, Baroud says the tent is around 150, Dometic says the fridge is 70 pounds with the slide being another 40, and then the drawers are 220. That's 730 and this thing is just REALLY high. I could consider a mild lift in the front (via Geiser or Eibach) but I'm not willing to raise it crazy high because I don't want to mess with CV angles too much. It seems like if I want to level it out, my best bet is to have a longer shackle in the rear with some springs up front. Shackle just seems like the easier place to start.

Manufactures design parts around certain brands. When I talked to RPG, they told me their new billet shackles only would work with Deavers. Follow up with them.

That is crazy if nearly 800 lbs in your bed doesn't cause your springs to sag at all. How many miles do you have on the springs? I would make sure to get some miles on them to break in. Your sag should be similar to the figures in the picture because those figures came from ICON's website.

 

[Ski4Ever]

@adllewis42, do you have a picture of what it looks like currently, with the amount of rake you have? Can you make some measurements from the ground to the highest point of the fender (on both sides in the the front, and both sides in the rear) when you get a chance? Make sure you're on level ground before making the measurements.

 

[GCATX]

1 thought, did you tighten up the shackle/spring thru bolts with the weight off the springs, at full droop? Everything should be tightened with full weight on springs.

 

[adllewis42]

1 thought, did you tighten up the shackle/spring thru bolts with the weight off the springs, at full droop? Everything should be tightened with full weight on springs.

I had a shop do it because I didn't have the tools to do what it looked like you needed to do per Icon's directions (totally lame, I know). Don't the shackles pivot in their mounting point? Seems like that wouldn't matter.

 

[adllewis42]

@adllewis42, do you have a picture of what it looks like currently, with the amount of rake you have? Can you make some measurements from the ground to the highest point of the fender (on both sides in the the front, and both sides in the rear) when you get a chance? Make sure you're on level ground before making the measurements.

Front is right around 39.5 and rear is 43.5. Measured from the ground to the bottom of the wheel arch through the center cap of the wheel.

 

[GCATX]

I had a shop do it because I didn't have the tools to do what it looked like you needed to do per Icon's directions (totally lame, I know). Don't the shackles pivot in their mounting point? Seems like that wouldn't matter.

Depends, if bushings are a rubber pressed in assembly, they definitely need to have weight on them before tightening, that way they sit in a neutral position most of the time. If they are lubed up poly bushings they should able to rotate some.

 

[adllewis42]

Manufactures design parts around certain brands. When I talked to RPG, they told me their new billet shackles only would work with Deavers. Follow up with them.

That is crazy if nearly 800 lbs in your bed doesn't cause your springs to sag at all. How many miles do you have on the springs? I would make sure to get some miles on them to break in. Your sag should be similar to the figures in the picture because those figures came from ICON's website.

I talked to RPG - They said their shackles work with Icon springs.

 

[lilgsx96]

I am running Icons and the New RPG drop shackle. No issues here at all.

 

[Ski4Ever]

Is Camburg the only company that makes a stock length (non-lowering) shackle? I wonder why RPG don't seem to (or do they, and I just can't find them anywhere)?