I like these. What’s the catch?

[Ali 556]

No need for it, unless it's baja/pre-runner style truck, and if you use the truck as a truck they will get dirty fast.

The 1.5k$ you gonna drop for some bling, get and after market CAI (S&B), and FMIC and a tune.

 

[Christyle]

I think the catch is the price.....

They generally allow for more droop, where the factory ball joint would bind, the uniball would not. They also move a bit more freely than the rubber sleeved pivots, and transfer more road feel into the truck since they arent isolated. Unless you're really looking to push it offroad, they're just another way to spend money.

 

[letsgetthisdone]

The icon UCA is the same price. I They have the best design for allowing the arm to be adjusted without removing it from the truck. And the cap on top prevent crap from collecting on top of the uniball.

They're comparable in price to other billet aluminum upper arms as well. The price isn't a "catch".

 

[Ryan C]

I've installed these SVC UCAs.

I posted about it in a thread on live valve 3.0s.

To install these SVC arms, you have to drill through the upright to give enough space for the 3/4" bolt. This is NOT mentioned on their website, and frankly, should be. That said, they were SUPER helpful when I was going through the process. Drill with a step bit. 3/4" end diameter (obviously).

I will have to see how they hold up to the elements. I'm in Vancouver BC, so lots of wet weather here.

The main advantage to these is you can adjust alignment while locking out the lower slot (which on stock raptors is just held by the torque on the bolt). I used the KHC stage 1 kit. I drive my truck pretty hard, so if that isn't your cup of tea, you may not need this type of set up.

Incidentally, I was really really close to proper alignment just doing it in my driveway. I had 0.00 toe both sides, had caster pretty much perfect (total fluke there, other than adjusting everything fairly even on all 4 points) and was just off on camber on one side by 1 degree. So bottom line is that with the UCA adjusters for caster and camber, it is actually really easy to align the truck.

I have 5.5" backspace rims (Venomrex 17") and these fit fine back there.

 

[Sheeepdog18]

Do people who buy those parts for their Raptor have their own printer at home to print their own USD $$$$ or am I the only guy here on this site that has the lowest paying job?

 

[Buzzard2]

Do people who buy those parts for their Raptor have their own printer at home to print their own USD $$$$ or am I the only guy here on this site that has the lowest paying job?

No your not the only one, I am poor also. Have to consider my upgrades very cautiously.
So far Fox 3.0's all the way around, JDM tune, a bed cover forget the brand, full bed rug, auto tailgate lock, Spicer rear diff cover and a few other minor things. Next is the Morimoto Headlights just waiting on Black Friday to see if there is a sale.

 

[Jakenbake]

Those SVC arms linked in the OP are adjustable on the truck according to the website.

They also likely add some positive caster.

 

[andreb]

I just installed the full front kit on my truck from SVC. As @Ryan C mentioned you have to drill the top of the spindle to 3/4" to accept the new bolt. The supplied fasteners are all A/N style and have long shoulders so the moving parts aren't sitting on the threads. This makes all the bolts really long. My lathe is down at the moment otherwise I would have parted them all off about .5 ~ .75" Guess I can do it when I rebuild the shocks in 10K miles (as suggested by Fox!!).

SVC has great products but there is not a lot online about installation, etc. They will help you if you call in but I think they install most of this stuff for customers. Jeff was a big help on the phone when I was doing my install. I also found some info at RPG and other sites like drilling the hole. I also chamfered to top edge of the spindle.

I made the mistake of installing the UCA's with the joints screwed in to match the factory dimensions. When I let the suspension off the jack (full droop) it hit the spindle and deformed the alloy a bit. You can see in the first picture where it contacted and the "wrinkle" mark. This won't affect anything mechanically, it's just cosmetic but a bummer. The correct setting is 5 threads showing in the front adjuster and 3 in the rear. It's probably too much camber but it prevents this from happening. I'll let the alignment shop worry about the correct setting.

 

[downforce137]

i think the icon delta arm is a better option for the price. greaseable joint and can be aligned on the truck, plus no drilling of the spindle.

 

[andreb]

i think the icon delta arm is a better option for the price. greaseable joint and can be aligned on the truck, plus no drilling of the spindle.

I like the greasable option but honestly these joints will probably outlast the truck. You can align the SVC arms without removing the bolts. The heim joint is inside a threaded collar that is cut with LH/RH threads. Tightening the adjuster "loosens" the heim end an moves it out. No drill spindle is a + for sure but the large bolt may be stronger than their tapered adapter/spacer set up.