Home with New Raptor - Initial Impressions

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HotLap

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Well, finally got it - a 2018 Magnetic 802A, moon roof, rear step, Tech pkg., CF pkg., bead lock wheels. Picked it up in St. Louis, Mo last Weds and got home late Sunday evening. First off, this truck is awesome and I had a great time driving cross country staying with friends in Denver, exploring Moab and Monument Valley, etc. Even had a Kansas State Trooper stop to check out the Raptor and tell me how much he wished his son was there as it is his dream vehicle :)

The Raptor drove great and most of the stuff I ran into was really me getting to know the truck. I should preface this with the fact that I sold my 2016 KR Fx4 a couple of months ago in anticipation of the new Raptor and have been driving the Shelby GT350 as my daily driver...so the handling characteristics couldn't be further apart. Interior fit and finish is good, seats are really comfy, easy to get your perfect spot and with the memory easy to recall it. Synch 3 just keeps getting better/more intuitive every year and I noticed some small (but useful) differences between my 2016 KR and the new Raptor. The new B&O sound system is much better than the Sony Premium system and I may be able to live with it. 100 miles West of St. Louis, it rained so hard the entire freeway was down to 20 mph with wipers on full speed - Raptor moon roof passed the leak test with flying colors ;)

I found the Raptor cruises best at about 75mph, much faster and the cross winds and road imperfections start to impact the driving experience. On straight, smooth roads the truck feels very stable. However, when hitting rough roads, especially sharp bumps, the suspension can start to bounce around a bit and combined with the body roll not a very stable feel. Coming down 70 West outside of Denver, I was taking a curve at the recommended 60mph and hit a rough patch of road (mid-curve) ...definitely had me tense there for a few seconds. And "trail braking" is tricky as the suspension travel and tires make it feel like you are going to step out the rear. Never did though, but thinking either Deaver and/or Hellwig anti sway bar would be a worthwhile upgrade. As I learned the truck's handling characteristics, I began to anticipate these situations so less trail braking was necessary. While the GT350 will make an average driver look good - I found the Raptor demands more attention and you need to anticipate road conditions more in advance. Around town absolutely no issues but at speed 80+ mph, due to the tall sidewall height and suspension travel, you need to be alert to changing road conditions.

Fuel mileage is well...it is what it is, you don't buy a Raptor for economy! I averaged about 14.2mpg coming across country. Gas was $262/gal in MO, and gradually increasing in price as I came West, reaching $4/gal in Cal. The roads seemed to get worse as the gas prices increased, I would have expected the opposite. Another thing I noted was in all states I crossed they have the "Slower Traffic Keep Right Unless Passing" signs posted and it really helped the flow on the freeways...most everyone was courteous and got back to the right after passing so you could be on your way. Much more efficient than in CA where one inconsiderate/clueless person going slow in the fast lane will cause all kinds of issues and frustration.

Engine performance was fine, however it does have the "built in throttle delay" off the line and I was in and out of Sport mode a lot. Will likely install a PC or other device as I have used the Sprint Booster on various other cars to eliminate the accel lag. Engine ran cool the entire trip, I was using 89 octane (mid grade) most of the way. 10 speed transmission took some getting used to, but I think it's sorted fairly well and when in the throttle the shifts were firm (not harsh). I was leery about the new 10 speed as I had a Range Rover in 2015 when they first went with their new (back then) 9 sp trans and it was awful. After 4 dealer appointment to have it reflashed, I finally sold the car. Sound, subjective I realize, but I think the Raptor sound is a good balance. Just loud enough to know something special is under the hood but I wouldn't want to increase the V6 sound any further. I think any louder and it will sound lame, but again, JMO.

First desert off road run outside of Monument Valley, was awesome!! I was having a blast (mostly flat dirt roads but determined to get her good and dirty) until I switched into Baja mode - the trans was holding the shift points really high so I switched back into Sport in 4A. I'll have to practice with the Baja Mode and learn how it works. Definitely going to apply bed liner in the rear wheel wells as coming off the dirt back onto pavement, you can hear the rocks nailing the inner wheel wells (and in some cases the bottom of the side steps). Which by the way are really stout and great anti-door ding devices. One night a mini van squeezed in next to me and next morning I went out to see if any door dings and noticed (due to the Raptor's height) his door would have only hit the side of the nerf bar :)

Shock and Awe factor! This Raptor garners it's fair share of attention/comments. Pretty much every gas station I stopped at folks were giving me the thumbs up, even Jeep drivers, LOL.

All in all I had a great road trip in my new Raptor and will post back as I get into mods and more miles on the truck!

Pics: 1) First roadside stop in KS to admire the new beast, 2) Another road side stop in KS for pics, 3) off roading 30 miles North of Monument Valley and, 4) Entering Utah en route to Moab.
 

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jabroni619

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I hear you on the "over active" rear end on below average roads. There's been a few times I was cruising leisurely down the road with one hand on the wheel and the other on the shift knob where I quickly felt like I had to grab the wheel with both hands when going over a rough patch, especially if it's on a slight curve that doesn't require slowing down for.


Hopefully the Fox Live Valve shocks on the 2019's remedy this condition.
 

zombiekiller

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Couple things on the rear feeling jumpy:

first- as goofy as it sounds, check to make sure that the tires arent over inflated. The extra 10 PSI that ford/dealers like to put in the tires makes a really big difference.

Second- if it is still too "happy" , replacing the rear leaf springs with deavers makes a MASSIVE difference. The truck feels how I would have expected it to from the factory with the deavers. nice and planted. More importantly, very very predictable.

Seems like there are a half dozen of us on this board with gt350s and raptors. Best of both worlds!

Welcome to the club.
 

eclou

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Congrats OP on the new steed!

I hear you on the handling issues. The rear does not inspire any confidence at speed, whereas my 2014 Sierra 4x4 on 20" wheels was surprisingly spry. I found that the Hellwig made a major improvement with no discernable loss of ride quality.

I think you will like the SP-542 plugs they eliminated most of the hesistation and hiccups in part-throttle acceleration for me.

Lastly try the dynamat trick on the rear sub. Its like getting a new sub for almost free
 

jaz13

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Live in Colorado and at one point was daily driving those I-70 mountain corners. They feel worse than they really are and in my Raptor I take them 15-20mph above the recommended speed all the time without issue.

The suspension is soft and you will get some body movement, but the truck is far more stable than it feels. Don't react and just drive on through it and you will be fine. The truck wants to hold its line and the only time it is dangerous is when the driver moves the wheel to "correct" or hits the brakes. The driver's reactions is what unsettles the truck and makes it dangerous, not the soft suspension.

Do all your braking before the corner. "Trail braking" as you say causes the truck to understeer and you will lose cornering performance. It also increases the risk of losing the backend if too much weight shifts forward. No gas, no brake, and no wheel movement in the corner and the truck will surprise you with what it can do safely.

Don't fear the body movement, the truck will figure it out all on its own. Driver inputs only make it worse. You are much better off coasting around a corner than trying to slow in the middle of it.
 

rtmozingo

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Couple things on the rear feeling jumpy:

first- as goofy as it sounds, check to make sure that the tires arent over inflated. The extra 10 PSI that ford/dealers like to put in the tires makes a really big difference.

Second- if it is still too "happy" , replacing the rear leaf springs with deavers makes a MASSIVE difference. The truck feels how I would have expected it to from the factory with the deavers. nice and planted. More importantly, very very predictable.

Seems like there are a half dozen of us on this board with gt350s and raptors. Best of both worlds!

Welcome to the club.

Dropping the pressure in the stock tires is a must. I'm 6 psi below the door jamb and still lack grip. Part of that is the nature of the beast, but the stock tires have a pretty shit skid rating, and a common complaint on truck forums is how bad they grip laterally, especially in the wet. I'm pretty convinced a different set of tires would help a lot with this, and from what I've seen, it does.
 

brettmess24

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How does one “trail brake” a Raptor?

Are you really using your parking brake in corners?!?[emoji15]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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zombiekiller

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How does one “trail brake” a Raptor?

Are you really using your parking brake in corners?!?[emoji15]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

:ROFLJest:

Definition: Trail braking is a driving and motorcycle riding technique where the brakes are used beyond the entrance to a turn, and then gradually released up to, or before, the apex of the turn.


Has absolutely zero to do with a hand brake or actuating just the rear brakes.
 
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brettmess24

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:ROFLJest:



Definition: Trail braking is a driving and motorcycle riding technique where the brakes are used beyond the entrance to a turn, and then gradually released up to, or before, the apex of the turn.





Has absolutely zero to do with a hand brake or actuating just the rear brakes.



Yes I know and in motorcycle racing it is using your rear brake to scrub off speed as using the front you will “tuck” and low side. I raced CCS for six years.....hence why I am confused how to trail brake a truck...;)

I suppose you could use the front lightly but not smart..lol Maybe on the street but not on the track go boom...front brake upsets the chassis too much.

Educate me please:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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zombiekiller

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Yes I know and in motorcycle racing it is using your rear brake to scrub off speed as using the front you will “tuck” and low side. I raced CCS for six years.....hence why I am confused how to trail brake a truck...;)

I suppose you could use the front lightly but not smart..lol Maybe on the street but not on the track go boom...front brake upsets the chassis too much.

Educate me please:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The method is about continuing to brake after the entrance to a turn in order to control weight balance and transfer.

It has zero to do with using a front brake vs a rear brake, or both. You have the luxury on a bike to be able to control rotation more granularly by modulating the brake bias independently, but that does not change the concept, nor the definition. Ad when trailbraking properly on a bike, you ABSOLUTELY use both front and rear brakes. Your front brake usage declines as you add more lean, the rear brake usage ends up being a direct correlation to how much you need/want to rotate the rear wheel.

On a motorcycle, it is a bit different and often more confusing. ( My background is supermoto ) Some people equate trail braking to "backing it in" and tend to assume that you would only apply rear brake to trailbrake. That is not the case. "backing it in" is trail braking at it's extreme with 100% rear brake bias (and you're adding the benefit of downshifting for the right exit gear and exit angle. when backing it in you never actually stop the rear wheel completely either). The oversteer and skid that ensues is actually what you're trying to avoid when employing the technique properly.

Trailbraking is about grip. backing it in is about a controlled slide.
 
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