Hidden Costs of Adding SC?

[Bonehook]

Looks like oil separator can be added to the list. From seeing the pics everyone is posting, I ordered one tonight. I just recently added a 270 amp alternator. I can't believe my wife hasn't strangled me yet with everything I'm adding. When she figures out that I bought new Methods and Toyos, I'm going to be in big trouble...especially if I get some rubbing and have to get Boatec fenders...lol (or stage 4 suspension mwuahaha)

Today I got the P0171 code and I'm hoping this has to do with some bad gas and that the oil separator will help me with this. Thoughts from MTF?

 

[MTF]

Too lean in left bank, do you have a recording OBD11 scanner?
Without seeing the fuel trims for both banks under driving conditions it would be hard to make an assumption.
Whipple is going to need that too in order to help you.

And how many miles on the Tune, and I can't remember everybody setup, what setup do you have?

It would easy to say, "you have an air leak somewhere", but let's take it one step at a time.
Unfortunately 8 out 10 times, that is often the case.
From simple re-torqueing the manifold or bad/lazy O2 to replacing a damaged O-ring.

I would take it very easy for now driving around, a lean condition can do damage.

 

[GoMuscles]

Also should upgrade your brake lines and pads. 12k miles on stock pads will feel like twice the wear on a blower truck. Separator is a great idea along with a new TSS oil pump which many of us are currently waiting on. Other than that drive friendly and your GTG.

 

[Bonehook]

Thanks for the advice MTF. My aerotech guage can give me that info from the OBD II connector. It's showing negative numbers on short trim bank 1.

I have about 500 miles on the JDM tune but pulled the supercharger to put in a new alternator and to fix a coolant leak on the passenger side.

I'm going to be patient and try to figure this out. Thanks.

 

[MTF]

I see, one thing from being around a while is, while you can reuse the O-rings,
I believe it's best just to get a new set and avoid the hassle of hoping you do not develop a leak. JMHO

How far off are the two banks when you idle and let's say holding 3,500 rpms what are two saying.
And how erratic are they when you let of the throttle?

If I remember correctly it will throw the code if the Long Trim is at or over -25

You can use my video as a base reference for the shorts, bank 1 & 2 for Whipple Tune and stock exhaust.


Drive to work - YouTube

 

[Bonehook]

Thanks MTF. My short trim seems to behave similar to your video and the long trim stays positive the whole time.

What is the setup you used for that video? I would like to get that.

I didn't change out the O-rings this last time. So I will do that next weekend since I'm leaving town for a few days.

As always, you have been very helpful. Thanks.

 

[Wilson]

I see, one thing from being around a while is, while you can reuse the O-rings,
I believe it's best just to get a new set and avoid the hassle of hoping you do not develop a leak. JMHO

How far off are the two banks when you idle and let's say holding 3,500 rpms what are two saying.
And how erratic are they when you let of the throttle?

If I remember correctly it will throw the code if the Long Trim is at or over -25

You can use my video as a base reference for the shorts, bank 1 & 2 for Whipple Tune and stock exhaust.


Drive to work - YouTube

I was noticeing how far the vacuum drops and wondering when the iwe start to lock?

 

[MTF]

http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f12/torque-pro-app-android-bluetooth-obd2-13742/#post204974

And I think I saw they made the app for apple last month can't be sure.

Also the long Trim will only change when extreme ranges are detected.

You can clear the error code with the Torgue Pro App, it's very useful.


Also to point out, - means rich and no sign is lean.




---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:17 PM ----------

Wilson I have 2010 1/2 so I do not have the front lockers.

Maybe some else might chime in for you.
But I believe the vacuum lines for the IWE are connected to a different area (tied in with the brakes power booster) then the boost gauge.