NORCAL SS
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Trade that thing in and get something else.
Help!!! W.O.T. rattle/noise at 5200 rpm, Second Lemon Law
- Thread starter Westy737
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1BAD454SSv2
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Coworker has a 2016 f150. He said after the Dealership did some brake work , he started getting a grinding noise at 50mph . I told him they probably cracked the plastic vacuum lines to IWE . They get brittle here in AZ . I told him put it in 4HI see if it goes away and it did. He takes it back and they tell him hotline says replace both IWE under warranty dealership did . Still making noise . Takes it back again and they replace the vacuum line assembly and that solves the problem. I Think Dealership plays games to get most money out of warranty and or customer.
Doesn't sound normal from your description. What is the nature of the current noise? Does it occur on cold start? Or does it happen under heavy acceleration in 2WD but not 4WD? It's possible it could be a few different root causes.
Although your have a sound theory, truthfully that's not it. There are just a lot of under qualified technicians who can replace parts all day but can't diagnose their way out of a paper bag. A lot of those claims get charged back by Ford for misdiagnosis.
Definitely a good place to start. A bad check valve will cause this exact issue; partial IWE engagement (grind) after a few seconds at WOT at high RPM. I've replaced them for that EXACT issue.
smurfslayer
Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77
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A point of clarification; this noise and grinding would occur in 2wd but not 4a or 4h, correct? Assuming partial engagements haven’t damaged other parts or created more havoc.
From my understanding yes. When in 2wd there is vacuum keeping the iwe from engaging at the hub. In 4wd the vacuum is released and the hubs are engaged. The issue with the check valve could be leaking and loosing vacuum while in 2wd causing the hubs to try and engage. Ie the grinding noise. So a bad check valve could cause your iwe to intermittently try to engage due to not holding vacuum.
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This attached picture is the reply from Ford Engineering. "undesired characteristic of the vehicle. This noise will result in no damage and repairs will not correct the concern." Anyone want to take a ride and hear a GRINDING NOISE THAT FORD SAYS IS NORMAL? How can anyone loyal to Ford be proud of this???? Is anyone thinking of buying and Raptor after reading this? Lets go for a ride! Clarification-noise happens between 50-70 mph before the shift to 4th and 5th
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FordTechOne- Grinding is worse when the truck has been driving for less than 10-15 minutes. Yes, of course I am letting it fully warm up before going WOT. I drove 40 minutes to the second dealership and the Grinding noise was less at that point. Assuming the long drive reduced the Grinding. After picking the truck up from the dealership, Grinding was fully back. 2WD Only.
That is a reply from the Ford Technical Assistance Center (TAC). TAC is there to assist technicians with diagnostics/repairs and to forward engineering issues up the chain. The person responding is not the person who designed the system; they are there to assist the dealer with the repair and only engage engineering when necessary. Since the dealer said the noise "comes from the rear", that would not be IWEs. The dealer also stated that they road tested a similar vehicle and it made the same noise...at that point they need to call it normal, because they have to assume the noise being described is a characteristic. Otherwise, there are dealers who will throw parts at a noise even though it's 100% normal. That is not a well written inquiry to TAC.
The 2019 F-150's were updated with an improved IWE strategy that actually keeps the hubs engaged when cold to prevent partial engagement from low engine vacuum during startup. Depending on temperature, the hubs may not disengage for up to 2 miles. With yours having an issue after being warm, there is a definite vacuum leak.
The TAC inquiry from your dealer shows that they did not do their due diligence. Before contacting TAC, they are supposed to perform Workshop Diagnostics. Does this look like it describes your concern?
There is an entire 12 Step diagnostic procedure to determine the fault. If your dealer can't do something that basic, I'd find a new one.
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