Help on SPST relay to connect light bar to high beams

[NDO]

I think I've decided on my switch strategy. I'm going to run direct feeds to most of my lights with Onyx6 10" as Aux1, 4 cube spots as Aux3, 2 cube floods as Aux4 (also providing power to my mirror LEDs), and backup lights as Aux6. Then on Aux5 I'm using a dual relay setup tied to high beams to power all of my forward facing lights (Onyx6 plus 4 spots plus 2 cubes). The first relay triggers from high beams and powers from Aux5; the second relay triggers from the first relay and powers from a new 30A fused power lead from the battery.
To prevent backfeeds I'll be using diodes in three locations on the combined circuit so my lights can still operate independently.

I'm using a fourth diode on the power lead to the mirror spotlights. I decided to splice in power to the existing power lead (the wire from pin 2 of the green molex connector under the dash, according to another post) so I can drive with the spots on in the woods. I'm powering it from my floodlights (Aux4) because I can't imagine ever needing spots while driving without also wanting the floods. The diode will prevent backfeeding the normal power source. So with Aux4 OFF the mirror spots will work exactly as normal, but with Aux4 ON the floods will illuminate and the mirrors can be illuminated while driving. In both cases the mirror spots will still be controlled by the existing mirror spot push buttons.

That was long-winded, so in summary:

Aux1: Onyx6 10"
Aux2: spare 15A
Aux3: four spot cubes in fog pockets
Aux4: two flood cubes in fog pockets, plus power to mirror spots
Aux5: combined, all forward lights illuminate if high beams are on
Aux6: two rear cubes

 

[gneissday]

I think I've decided on my switch strategy. I'm going to run direct feeds to most of my lights with Onyx6 10" as Aux1, 4 cube spots as Aux3, 2 cube floods as Aux4 (also providing power to my mirror LEDs), and backup lights as Aux6. Then on Aux5 I'm using a dual relay setup tied to high beams to power all of my forward facing lights (Onyx6 plus 4 spots plus 2 cubes). The first relay triggers from high beams and powers from Aux5; the second relay triggers from the first relay and powers from a new 30A fused power lead from the battery.
To prevent backfeeds I'll be using diodes in three locations on the combined circuit so my lights can still operate independently.

I'm using a fourth diode on the power lead to the mirror spotlights. I decided to splice in power to the existing power lead (the wire from pin 2 of the green molex connector under the dash, according to another post) so I can drive with the spots on in the woods. I'm powering it from my floodlights (Aux4) because I can't imagine ever needing spots while driving without also wanting the floods. The diode will prevent backfeeding the normal power source. So with Aux4 OFF the mirror spots will work exactly as normal, but with Aux4 ON the floods will illuminate and the mirrors can be illuminated while driving. In both cases the mirror spots will still be controlled by the existing mirror spot push buttons.

That was long-winded, so in summary:

Aux1: Onyx6 10"
Aux2: spare 15A
Aux3: four spot cubes in fog pockets
Aux4: two flood cubes in fog pockets, plus power to mirror spots
Aux5: combined, all forward lights illuminate if high beams are on
Aux6: two rear cubes

That is quite an intricate plan you have there! Good luck and post up once you're done and let us know how everything goes.

Are all your lights going to be from Baja Designs? I really like the 5000 K color temperature they use for their lights.

 

[NDO]

Only the Onyx6 is a BD...I wish I could swing a full BD setup but I decided to go on the cheap for now with a bunch of cheap cubes and an n-fab bracket. I figured it would be quick and easy to swap cubes later to upgrade once I had it all wired.

 

[NDO]

Thought I'd update this...I used gneissday's method to tap in to the high beam wire. I used two relays, one powered from Aux 5 and triggered from the high beams and the other triggered from the first relay and powered from a 30A fuse from the battery, to feed all my forward lights (an Onyx6 10" lower grille bar and six cubes in fog pockets). I used three diodes (On Semiconductor MBR1645G) to prevent backfeeding from the three individual switches (I have the Onyx on Aux 1, four spot cubes on Aux 3, and two flood cubes on Aux 4) when I want to power individual light circuits. It rocks! The auto-dimming headlights work perfectly with this setup. On a semi-deserted road you have portable daylight and then it all shuts down when the rare oncoming car appears.

 

[Kenny008]

Jeff is sending me a fordraptorlights set:
- KC HiLites FLex lights (2)
- Rigid Dually (2 Spot, 2 Flood)

I'm going to wire it up pretty close to NDO's set-up, hooking into the highbeam sense shown by gneissday. Thanks to both of you!

I decided to draw this up so that I could see what I was doing. I diagrammed it out as a relay set-up, and just using diodes. If you guys can QC me on this, I'd appreciate it.

On the diode diagram, I'm using 4 diodes instead of 3 to give me a little more margin on the current rating. I like to stay under 50% if I can, and the diodes are rated at 16A.

Please let me know what you think.

 

[NDO]

That'll work, but I think it has some unnecessary components in the diode version. You really don't need D1 and D2 but they won't hurt anything. The only backfeed they're preventing is against a single open switch each, and even if you accidentally leave them closed there's no consequence.

The reason I used a second relay and three diodes is that I was powering 25 amps worth of lights, so I had to tap power directly from the battery.

 

[Kenny008]

Yep, I see that. D1 and D2 can go away. Thanks.

 

[Kahuna]

OK, so it seems the electronic big brains hang out in here so...

I am planning on adding a 6 relay panel which enables switching of 5 lights independently via upfitters and all 5 at once via high beams when upfitter 6 is on. It will also increase capacity on upfitters.

Can someone please:

1. Critique my design.
2. Let me know if I will need a capacitor on the high beam wire tap to avoid flicker.
3. Think of any issues I haven't!

Thanks,
K

 

[mezger]

I posted in the other thread; not knowing what's on the high beam's circuit except the LED which points the wrong way, I think it is good idea to use a flyback diode for any relay it's controlling. Also, I'm putting a diode between the headlight tap and the relay it's controlling to ensure feedback is quashed.

 

[t_j]

Check out the LVJ Motorsports relay panel. They recently updated it with support for high beam integration.