G's Raptor

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Squatting Dog

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Yeah, no kidding... Driving tips from Jarrett or Corey would be great. I can drive like a bat out of hell through soybean fields and jeep trails. Through 2-3ft whoops and crap like that I just hammer it and hold on (SPRSNK method, lol).

E63, when I get a chance to come out that way for some RPG/raptoraddict goodies lets hit some dirt. And cash in on RPG warranty.. Lol

-Greg
 

Yukon Joe

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I’d have to say from the RPG upgrades I have (Stage 4) it definitely allows the truck to be pushed harder and faster (that’s what she said, hahahaaa). The ride is improved to an amazing level. I ran the TRR course Friday pre-RPG. Friday night we installed the stage 4 till 3 am. Even on the ride back to base camp on the ranch roads you could feel the difference. Running the TRR on Saturday, post-RPG, I felt more comfortable to be able to run the truck faster. As one of my co-drivers said “you can go about 15 to 20 mph faster with the same set of balls”. Keep in mind the speed limit at the TRR was 45 MPH. On Friday we didn’t even think we’d come close to that. Saturday was a different story.
 
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E63

E63

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Yeah, no kidding... Driving tips from Jarrett or Corey would be great. I can drive like a bat out of hell through soybean fields and jeep trails. Through 2-3ft whoops and crap like that I just hammer it and hold on (SPRSNK method, lol).

E63, when I get a chance to come out that way for some RPG/raptoraddict goodies lets hit some dirt. And cash in on RPG warranty.. Lol

Be happy too, if the wife lets me out to go play... Regarding stuff breaking, I doubt the RPG warranties will come into play, more likely stock items will fail. Truck is in the shop right now, replacing O2 sensor and ??? for intermittent Engine light coming on. That Trick I posted up showing how to find DTC s on the Nav only works for Body control modules like sync, nav, climate control all the interior stuff. Engine and drive train need service laptop connected obdc2 port

-Greg

I’d have to say from the RPG upgrades I have (Stage 4) it definitely allows the truck to be pushed harder and faster (that’s what she said, hahahaaa). The ride is improved to an amazing level. I ran the TRR course Friday pre-RPG. Friday night we installed the stage 4 till 3 am. Even on the ride back to base camp on the ranch roads you could feel the difference. Running the TRR on Saturday, post-RPG, I felt more comfortable to be able to run the truck faster. As one of my co-drivers said “you can go about 15 to 20 mph faster with the same set of balls”. Keep in mind the speed limit at the TRR was 45 MPH. On Friday we didn’t even think we’d come close to that. Saturday was a different story.

Sounds like quite the night! Thanks for posting up. “you can go about 15 to 20 mph faster with the same set of balls”. True nuff, Funny as hell!
 
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E63

E63

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Fooling the OEM TPMS Sensors

So Gbrown came up with the idea of building a PVC tube to hold the stock TPMS sensors and drilled a hole for a special type of Schrader valve that can be bolted into place. Looks like a pipe bomb. I couldn’t find anything better or cheaper to build. I used 1.25” schedule 40 PVC, I also added a screw on connector to allow for access. Like so many of my mods, mistakes happen.

Goldilocks builds a bomb
First one was TOO BIG (ok I used some old PVC glue hanging around and it never set right.) The SECOND one was TOO SMALL, (used the right glue, but not enough and did not properly prepare the surface.) The THIRD one was JUST RIGHT, enough room for air volume, properly prepared and primed the surfaces, Teflon taped the threads and tightened all the way) Inflated to 60Lbs (you lose some when air chuck is removed, starting pressure will vary depending upon the size of your pipe, your skill and equipment)

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Three trips to Home Depot and $10 later I had a working device. ACCORDING TO OWNERS MANUAL YOU MUST DRIVE OVER 20 MPH FOR 2 MINUTES FOR WARNINGS TO RESET. I drove half a block and warnings disappeared!

I thought about making a label that said – Warning this is a Bomb! Jk, but then reason prevailed and I made this
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Observations:
Gordon Brown told me he is starting to have issues with his and the warnings have come back, perhaps he has a slow leak. I tested mine under pressure and put in bucket of water to test.

So the latest is that this fix does NOT work. Once you drive on the freeway for 30 or 40 minutes, much more severe warnings appear randomly in drivers display. Very annoying. At this point it would be better to not take the "Bomb" on any trip out of town, as the simple warning you can clear and then you just have the small idiot light warning on the dash that you could potentially cover with piece of electrical tape.

That said, I have not given up, nor has a few others that are working on this. When I was at the dealer the other day I spoke to Shop supervisor and looked at various modules while service PC was hooked up. There are dozens of routines running associated with the TPMS. Not only pressure but temperature is also reported for each tire. We thought that maybe it was the cool cabin pressure that was inconsistent with a normal increase after running at speed for a while. So I will try and place unit somewhere outside to see if errors go away. We were able to see various pressures for each sensor, they varied by one or two Lbs although they were all in the same cylinder.
 
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E63

E63

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Build thread is almost caught up to present day! Just a couple more posts starting next Monday.

Will be going out to Ocatillo this afternoon taking my son and a few friends to meet up with a couple more car loads of their friends for some airsoft adventures. Evidently one of the boys wants to try out some new video gear. So if Raptor emerges from Dealer Service Hell, I will take it, as none of these boys or their parents have seen a Raptor, and Ocatillo is right next to Plaster City, so I should get some more testing/play time in. Now if I can only remember to strap the cooler down...

Coming to this Raptor in the very near future: Custom Bumpers, lighting, Skids, Passenger Cage with 5 point harnesses and sliders :peace:
 

Squatting Dog

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The errors are coming from the sensors are not rotating. There is a centrifugal switch to only activate the sensor while in motion to save the battery. The truck in motion is looking for this signal, and since the switches are in the tube not rotating, the truck thinks the sensors have failed.

You could open the sensors up and bypass the centrifugal switch, this will cause the sensors to always be active. And it would work to clear error message, but it would lead to shorter battery life.

Not sure if you can open the sensors without destroying them.

-Greg
 
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E63

E63

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The errors are coming from the sensors are not rotating. There is a centrifugal switch to only activate the sensor while in motion to save the battery. The truck in motion is looking for this signal, and since the switches are in the tube not rotating, the truck thinks the sensors have failed.

You could open the sensors up and bypass the centrifugal switch, this will cause the sensors to always be active. And it would work to clear error message, but it would lead to shorter battery life.

Not sure if you can open the sensors without destroying them.

-Greg

Interesting, then why is it happy for the first 40 minutes?
Would mounting in such a way that it bounces around trigger it to turn on?
or does it need true centrifugal force to activate some secondary signal?

I was thinking of mounting some where in engine bay thinking lack of temperature rise might be culprit.

I doubt there is a way to open that unit up without destroying it, but then if what you say is true, what have I got to lose. Then again I could keep the bomb for around town and then leave at home for longer trips. idk

I can't think of any way to have a pressurized cylinder rotate at speed without interferring with frive train. Maybe propeller driven contaption hooked to back with a flag that reads "Ford made me do it" :ROFLJest:

Oh just found out the main kid is sick, trip to desert cancelled. :greenchainsaw:
 
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Yukon Joe

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The TPMS has to rotate. I have rotated in my spare tire, which does not have a TPMS. Therefore, I get the idiot light after about 25 minute on the road. The tire with the TPMS sits as my spare now.
 
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E63

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Cargo Management

For those just joining the thread, I built a rather unconventional bed cage from ABS plastic to hold cargo in place left to right, front to back. What was needed was a way to anchor everything down to the bed itself. My design goals are to keep all cargo secure under a F-1 Bak-Flip, with two 37" spare tires, racing jack, Gas, Water, Shovel, Extinguisher, CO2, other various emergency gear.

As discussed earlier in this thread and upon the advice of some members more knowledgeable than me, it is important to have the load pulled perpendicular to the mount. Since my bed cage is not attached to the bed it was necessary to have multiple tie down points to secure the contents and the rack itself. After surfing the forums, off road magazines et al I came across a company that made specialty tie down systems: Macs Custom Tie Downs, the owner owns a 6.2 White Raptor so there was a nice fit.

I worked with Jami who helped me develop some custom strapping systems. I opted for 11 individual anchor points. These accept their single stud tie down rings.
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With all the gear in the truck I marked the optimal locations with blue tape on the top of the Bed Rug. Then I located the recessed Channels and adjusted tape to accommodate this reality. This was the first location compromise. The second compromise(s) came when I was checking under the truck for clearance. Turns out there are a lot to miss between the stock bracing and my RPG frame support. So once again some of the locations needed to change. Measure twice and drill once, required putting the 37” spare back in the truck Bed a few times to make sure all would fit.

Here is picture after slicing thru cover to mark location(s) on the bed itself.

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Installing the anchor points is pretty easy, drill, clean openings – I used my dremel, applied generous piece of double sided tape (to backing plate) making sure to clear bolt opening, squarely position backing plate, then complete from inside bed. I used Red Locktight generously and torqued down.

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I also added some heavy duty rings to the strongest portion of the box that holds the racing jack and cooler, added a bracket for extinguisher and used an off the shelf ratchet lock down. Also located and locked the shovel down.

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CO2 tank is held back against the rack by Mac Cam strap that is also securing gas can and bed rack itself down. It has a second strap going over the top and straight down to the bed.
The tire is held down with a custom “Y” Ratchet Strap.

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Observations:
It would have been a lot easier if I had gone with the rail system for the majority of my anchor points rather than individual. This way would have provided more flexibility in location points as the rail could be attached around the braces leaving any point along its length to tie into. For the side positions, the individual points would work great. The single stud tie downs being sewn into the straps make for great operation but difficult to put in or remove in and around the 100Lb tire. I overcame this by trimming the bed rug to open up the access, however I may have been better off using independent (not sewn into strap) locking snap hooks they make. For areas more accessible a simple slice and small cross in the center of the stud location allows for access without trimming.

Ah! some of you may have noticed that one of the fastforward posts showed problems I had when I forgot to strap the cooler down after getting some refreshments while testing... The followup post showed some changes including some additional anchor points for CO2, Racing Jack Box and the Bac-Box. The nature of not posting as stuff happened, but we are pretty much caught up to date now.

Looking forward to the Outlaw Expedition "Day in the Dirt" which I will be running with 3 passengers. Should be a blast - Barstow to Vegas, only $100 whats your excuse?
 
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