Getting King 3.0's on the front and back. Anything I should know before hand?

[Bowewelding]

The first time I took the shock apart I noticed that the compression shims were double stacked so I took it down to a single "conventional " stack. The shims i had taken out I replaced the same width shims in the rebound stack to the thicker ones. I forget how thick they were now. It helped, i also flutter stacked the compression. the rebuild kits I had found ended up being the wrong kit, luckily the seal head seals fit. But the big orings that seal the body were wrong. Luckily the oem ones were still in ok shape. Im sure by now they're better kits out there but this was in 17 when we got the truck. I lowered the nitrogen level a little.. like I said before I played with the valveing but was never happy with them. I was gonna keep trying but was able to swing the kings and never looked back.. they changed the truck right away, had ordered the 3.5s for the rear but wanted to see if the dealer could figure out the advance track fault I was getting given before I cut holes in the fender well but they couldn't and thats where I'm at now..2020 with live valve. Its really nice but I still plan on changing them..just been swamped with jobs lately

 

[letsgetthisdone]

By doing what you did, you lessened the total stack height dramatically, and brought the rate plate much closer to the first (largest) shim. You inadvertently added a shit load of high damping unless you added height back in at the fulcrum (last/smallest) shim.

And then on the rebound, well, I still don’t think rebound was the issue having ridden in these things a lot . So by adding all the rebound then you did, with all that extra compression damper (if what I presumed to have happened with the compression stack is correct...), yeah, i bet your truck rode like shit...

 

[Bowewelding]

You didn't hear that after doing that it rode better?!? And when you say riding in these things alot , do you mean in parking lots, or a yearly trip to the desert, I have alot of seat time in the thing and live in the desert , surrounded by side by side chop and dirtbike whoops. And why is it that the king shock works soooo much better?? I can't see how taking the thickness of the compression shim stack is going to make it sttifer, closer to the rate plate, yes only by like .030 " because they had the top 2 shims doubled to promote flow through there bypass holes.. so maybe not allowing as much flow by on the big,Big hits. But with all those damn bypass holes i would think its still passing plenty of fluid on the compression. I rode in it after doing so and felt the difference . I know there's some that say a flutter stack makes for a stiffer valving by interrupting the transition aspect of the pyramid stack but its always felt good for what I do and my ****** dirt road I travel on ..oh yeah and I always run like 25-30 lbs in the tires not the 38 that the door says to run

 

[letsgetthisdone]

I go off-roading every weekend...lol.

Carry on.

 

[Bowewelding]

"Off roading"

 

[Bowewelding]

It was very nice talking shocks with you though..usually don't get to go so in depth on this site..lol..sorry to the guy that started the forum for making him sit through all that..ive got these side by side shocks apart on my bench..doing the rear ones now..the fronts had 5 big shims starting the stack off for compression, was shocked to see so many stacked shims. Compression and rebound both were flutter stacked from the factory