[Gen2] New Engine Price? Follow up on Blown Engine...

[unashamed7]

Following up from my other thread about engine codes resulting in a blown engine (with story) https://www.fordraptorforum.com/thr...leads-to-shop-recommending-new-engine.105699/

Quick Summary: 2017 Ford Raptor [Gen2], 172K miles, original engine. No warranty. Misfire Cylinder 6, failed compression (20psi), pitting on cylinder. Local shop recommends new engine.
Total cost $23k for OEM engine, turbos, radiator, hoses, etc. See attached quote for full breakdown.

Thankfully this is not my main source of transportation, but I just bought the dang thing 8 months ago for $29k (I know, I know, hindsight 20/20, won't be doing that again).
I'm trying to get opinions on whether to keep the truck or not.

1. Have you had your engine replaced, if so what was the cost?
2. Does this quote seem reasonable?
3. Alternative options to replacing? Even worth it?
4. What could I sell it for with a blown engine?

Notes about quote and recommended work:
- Shop says all parts are all "at-price" rate since it's a big job.
- Shop says history of oil changes is suspect. Owner claims to done work himself (oil changes, simple jobs, etc) that may not have been recorded in carfax (I'm questioning that now).
- Shop recommends turbos, cooling system due to mileage, and if it was an issue with lack of oil changes. Similarly they typically recommend replacing radiator, hoses, etc. while they're in there.
- In discussions with them about upgraded parts (aluminum oil pan). Any other recommendations here? My last post someone recommended a video to me by fordtechmakuloco.
- Shop confirmed with Ford that "the [new] engine should have whatever the current version of every part installed in the engine".
- New engine comes with 3 year / unlimited mile warranty as mentioned in the quotes below.

Notes about previous owner:
- He put a lot of miles on the vehicle (169k), very possible he went far too long without changing the oil. No good carfax history, just his word about his own work on the truck (Hindsight 20/20 again, I know).
- No issues since purchasing the vehicle until now.
- He DID have a tune on the truck, I know it wasn't Goosetuned but another. He claims to have taken it off after his family drove the truck, which was supposedly most of it's life.

Feel free to ask any more questions, just looking for any advice.

 

[EricM]

Spaceships are expensive to fix, but they are ******* you.

$7K+ of labor is too much to yank out old shit and bolt in new IMO. I know that Ford EcoBoost = oil lines, coolant lines, intake tubing, vacuum hoses, and wire harnesses galore- all stacked 3 deep on top of each other; but at $175 an hour, that's 55 hrs. Nearly 7 full days of labor.

Granted, they are transferring over some parts from your old engine ($23K won't even get you a new waterpump and they reuse the old oil pump LOL) but those parts can be transferred way faster than normal since the old engine will be out of the truck and it's going to be scrap.

Why is there $1000 in "incidental parts"? They are already charging you full-on retail for every nut and bolt (none of which will they actually replace)- what else could they need another $1000 in parts for, given the massive parts cannon they plan to launch at your truck?

I'd take this list to a independant shop and see what they'll do it for.

Honestly- are you going to keep it after this repair? You won't trust it anymore. You might as well get it fixed as cheaply as posssible if you are going to unload it.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

reach out to paul at infinity overland. they do engine swaps a lot. they have done everything from normal swaps like yours to 7.3 godzilla in gen 1s and 5.0 coyote in gen 2s. they are in reno. i guarantee its a shitoad cheaper that you have been quoted. and these guys in reno are around raptors all day long.

 

[dillard09]

I just had motor pulled, purchased complete OEM long block, and install for under 15k.
If buying new turbos get some Garrett turbos.

 

[unashamed7]

$7K+ of labor is too much to yank out old shit and bolt in new IMO. I know that Ford EcoBoost = oil lines, coolant lines, intake tubing, vacuum hoses, and wire harnesses galore- all stacked 3 deep on top of each other; but at $175 an hour, that's 55 hrs. Nearly 7 full days of labor.

@EricM Apparently since they're going OEM, Ford doesn't sell a Crate Motor so that's why they had to part out all the individual bits. From what I understand it's mostly for removal of old, then assembly of the new engine and putting it back in. That being said it still seems like a lot.

Why is there $1000 in "incidental parts"? They are already charging you full-on retail for every nut and bolt (none of which will they actually replace)- what else could they need another $1000 in parts for, given the massive parts cannon they plan to launch at your truck?

I will ask about this, it's pretty vague.

Honestly- are you going to keep it after this repair? You won't trust it anymore. You might as well get it fixed as cheaply as posssible if you are going to unload it.

I would probably have confidence knowing the entire engine was replaced and should be good for a long time. I'd likely only put 3-5k miles on it per year. So assuming I did all the proper maintenance it could last a long time, but I know this gen has more issues than others.
Also it would be hard for me to do the same thing to the next guy... definitely sucks.

 

[unashamed7]

I just had motor pulled, purchased complete OEM long block, and install for under 15k.
If buying new turbos get some Garrett turbos.

@dillard09, what's the year/mileage of your truck when this happened? How many miles has it been since the work was done?

One of the main reasons they recommended a full rebuild was the mileage of the engine... I could risk just replacing the block but not sure If I'm going to run into issues with the top end in future

 

[dillard09]

@dillard09, what's the year/mileage of your truck when this happened? How many miles has it been since the work was done?

One of the main reasons they recommended a full rebuild was the mileage of the engine... I could risk just replacing the block but not sure If I'm going to run into issues with the top end in future

Haha! The first or second? My first stock one last 104k and the crankshaft came apart. I then got and RMB Stage 2 forged block with cylinder support. It made it 102k but was never right from the start.
I would get a OEM long block. It should have latest and greatest of everything like cam phasers and oil pans. My long block was like 7k.

 

[TomDirt]

Question; whats the KBB for a regular 2017 Raptor with 172XXX miles? Maybe mid- to high-30's? There's zero chance of doing that swap and "getting your money's worth" out of it. I am in no way criticizing, because I've got about $50K invested in a 2011 G1 with 148xxx miles.
If you're looking at options for a pull-out engine package, I'd consider looking at Hennessey's shop in Texas. https://www.hennesseyspecialvehicles.com/ Their customers are investing huge dollars with him when they do engine swaps and tend to bring in very well maintained vehicles. A friend of mine bought a (very low mileage) complete G2 Raptor engine, trans, and transfer case from them for $10K, and had it tweaked for his Class 7 race truck. They ended up with a package capable of racing all day at 600hp, that can be boosted to 700hp when necessary.

 

[Muchmore]

Do
Not
Use
Hennessey
EVER.

Do some googling before even buying stickers from those thief's

 

[unashamed7]

Haha! The first or second? My first stock one last 104k and the crankshaft came apart. I then got and RMB Stage 2 forged block with cylinder support. It made it 102k but was never right from the start.

Oh man that sucks. Any idea why the crankshaft came apart? Were you making some good power with the stage 2 forged?

I would get a OEM long block. It should have latest and greatest of everything like cam phasers and oil pans. My long block was like 7k.

That's what I'm thinking - they'll have the latest and greatest everything - still thinking about upgrading the oil pan from the plastic garbage but otherwise should be pretty set. Price still seems steep though, but I'm already in the thick of it.