Gen 2 SCAB makeover…totally not ripping off Geoff’s 2.5 build!

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91Eunos

91Eunos

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Listing these Gen3 parts here for reference, and for ordering later:

Crank: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ubmodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=559;e=606)

Lifters (need 24): https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ubmodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=559;e=606)

Followers (need 24): https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ubmodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=559;e=606)

Exhaust cam phasers (need 2): https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ubmodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=559;e=606)

Intake cam phasers (need 2): https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ubmodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=559;e=606)

Right-side tensioner: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ubmodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=559;e=606)

LH tensioner chain guide (metal): https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ubmodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=559;e=606)

RH tensioner chain guide (metal): https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ubmodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=559;e=606)

Timing chains (need 2): https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ubmodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=559;e=606)

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ARP Crank bolt: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-156-2502?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=+arp++156-2502&utm_content=ARP&utm_campaign=Part+Number+Ad+Groups

ARP head bolts: https://mountuneusa.com/products/arp-high-performance-head-stud-kit-3-5l-ecoboost

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Also swapping over to the aluminum oil pan/new pickup:

Aluminum Oil Pan: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ubmodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=559;e=606)

Or, for $15 cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMW67689/?tag=fordraptorforum-20


Oil Pickup: https://www.oemfordpartscheap.com/p...Oil-Pump-Pickup-Tube/105625108/LK4Z6622B.html

Oil Pickup O-Ring (should already be on the new pickup tube, but just in case): https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-gasket_hl3z-6626-a.html

Oil Dipstick: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-indicator-assembly-oil-level_hl3z-6750-b.html

Oil Pan Bolts (reuse most of the OE bolts, but need 2 more of the ones that are reused to replace the bolts at the back of the pan due to the flange thickness on the aluminum pan vs. the plastic pan): https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-bolt_-w712943-s437.html

Oil Pan Sealant: Here’s the genuine Ford stuff, but any thoughts re: using plain old RTV sealant? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001H1KGVE/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Engine Shampoo to remove brake cleaner residue, and everything else before applying the RTV sealant: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NU3Q12/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Metal Etching Wipes: Friggin’ expensive, and once opened the whole container is pretty much shot. Looking for other options here:

 
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91Eunos

91Eunos

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There are cast aluminum valve covers available for the Gen 1 3.5L but they are machined improperly and leak worse than stock. Ford actually has a lot going on with these parts an I think its best to replace with OEM.
Dang…yeah, not digging these plastic valve covers at all, but function > form in this case for sure

Did you happen to ID where the crack is exactly?

I honestly can’t find any cracks, but there was oil pooled on the top of the LH (driver’s side) valve covers at the front…on both left and right sides of the LH cover. Maybe just a bad gasket?

Will look closer today with a magnifying glass.
 
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Speaking of the valve covers, I looked closely, but cant see any cracks whatsoever. These are the spots where I had oil pooling on the LH cover:

i-ZQdxpwb-X4.jpg

And here:

i-kFC8Kxd-X4.jpg

Guess I could just try new gaskets, but if I’m gonna go to the effort to clean and paint ‘em, I think I’ll just start with new.
 
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Clearly didn’t get around to cleaning off the bench yesterday…spent the entire day looking at various cars to replace her wrecked X5, and then went out to meet our son and his wife for dinner downtown.

Started off today with a nice breakfast sammich brought out to the shop by my lovely wife:

i-LdBJBSP-X4.jpg

And then proceeded to finish tearing down the block. No issues on the outer cap bolts and that sub-plate/secondary girdle (whatever it’s called), but I couldn’t get a socket over the main cap bolts for the #4 bearing at the back.

Thought I would try a flare nut wrench from my brake tools:

i-JnBdp24-X4.jpg

But wound up just using a smaller/thinner-walled 3/8” drive socket with an adapter to fit the breaker bar vs. the 1/2” drive socket. No issues other than that.

Remembered the side bolts for the main caps, just after I started tapping the first one with a rubber mallet and couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t moving! LoL

i-9g2zfHx-X4.jpg

They all looked good except for #2:

i-327WDxt-X4.jpg

The rod bottoms all looked about the same…some kind of pitting, even though they felt smooth to the touch:

i-dXTgSRq-X4.jpg

…but the actual bottom half of the rod bearings all looked pretty good for this mileage; again, they all looked about the same:

i-xxrgq3j-X4.jpg

However, when I got the pistons and rods out, there was a lot more wear on #3 upper rod bearing than the rest… probably not long before it would have spun.

i-kLtHs3W-X4.jpg

Here’s all 6 laid out:

i-39PKx97-X4.jpg
 
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Once I had the pistons and rods out, it was time to hook the block back up to the hoist, so I could access the bolts holding on the rear main seal and rear plate before I pulled the crank:

i-549KG5m-X4.jpg

i-p99VBmd-X4.jpg

…and a few small bolts later:

i-np5XL4r-X4.jpg
 
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