I sincerely appreciate your sharing this build with everyone, and love your sense of urgency! to keep progress moving I called an old industry friend this morning, expert machinist with strong 3.5L ecoboost experience ( I don't know why I didn't think of him earlier). He provides some of the machining services for another well known ecoboost engine builder that starts with an M. Said he will get back to me tomorrow with suggestions and considerations, he may prove to be an ideal resource for the shortblock machining and assembly (fyi: he does not do heads or longblocks).
A recipe for most reliable, easiest and lowest risk is looking like:
gen 2 block (known good) with gen 2 knock sensors, gen 3 crank, ati crank pulley
Headgames head, gen 3 timing assembly, coyote lifters/rockers
ARP coyote crank pulley bolt, ARP head studs, ARP main studs
*replace valvecovers with oem
the other variable is OEM vs Boundary oil pump - My concern is it may not be ready in time for your build. furthermore it's experimental and obviously unproven so I'm using that to pace my engine build. Overall keep it simple and get things buttoned up addressing the main issues
had to laugh at this, my wife told me everytime we have a dinner party i disappear to work on a project...
gen3 crank is a better material with improved heat treatment. ie: it doesn't crack. I believe the gen 2 crank has been completely discontinued at this point and the part number superceded. Rods and pistons are generally JE (boostline is their connecting rod). Im waiting to hear back from our machinist friend on what he thinks is the right call. Regardless - it doesnt have to be crazy expensive to do this well.
Nope. There are cast aluminum valve covers available for the Gen 1 3.5L but they are machined improperly and leak worse than stock. Ford actually has a lot going on with these parts an I think its best to replace with OEM. Did you happen to ID where the crack is exactly?
definitely worthwhile to replace the OEM head bolts with ARP head studs! the oem fasteners are not the best
fyi - theres a much easier solution: use a 14mm(?) hex socket to go into the oil filter threads. this will allow the Air to Water heat exchanger to unbolt and then you can easily remove the oil filter housing bolt from the block. Im planning to delete this heat exchanger altogether and go to an air-to-oil heat exchanger in the OEM intercooler location (and repurposing the oem intercooler fan on the oil cooler)
definitely do not remove them! there is no need to touch them at all, keep in place
