Gen 1, hill descent control fault, service advance trac, check brake system

[perry]

2012 SCREW just shy of 100 k miles, only mods are a Whipple with a Force tune, some Deavers and a rack of rigid lights. Out of the blue, while driving on road, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree with a Hill Descent Control Fault, Service Advance Trac, and Check Brake System. When checking for codes, there are none. There are no weird handling issues like antilock breaks activating etc. Immediately on start up it coughs up the hill descent fault and the service advance trac errors. Then after I move ~ 20-30’ in either forward or reverse it coughs up the check brake system. I’ve done a visual of the speed sensor connections on the front and rear, unplugged and plugged back in the front sensors, nothing notable to report. Third tail light is dry connections look brand new. About two weeks previous to the dash lighting up it did something strange in a parking lot. After reversing out of my parking spot, I shifted to drive and the tranny acted up. It was like it locked in a high gear, 4 th 5th or 6 th and would not kick down. I shifted to neutral, back to drive, no change. Drove approximately 100 yards to a stop sign at the exit of the parking lot were after the stop everything returned to normal. It’s never done anything like that in the past. The only other tranny related issue since new was a year or two ago, when attempting to aggressively pass, (full boost) on blacktop, instead of kicking down the tranny felt like it slipped or went to neutral for a split second. After getting out of the throttle then getting back into, it all issues went away.
I’m headed home from work tomorrow and have 2 weeks off to figure things out. I’ve a plan to start by checking Ohms on all four speed sensors as well as rotate the wheels to verify function of the speed sensor. Additionally I’ll check tranny fluid level just because. Then what? I thought I read a post where ford tech one said if a speed sensor fails it definitely will write a code, though some threads and some Google searches seem kind of gray on that. Is there any way it could be the lead frame, maybe one of the speed sensors on it and is there any way to test for that? Appreciate any suggestions. I’ve googled away some hours and don’t have much to show for it. Thanks in advance.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

is most likely going to be electronic. wiring or computer related. double check the 3rd brake light and the wiring harness going into the transmission. that would be the first place i would check. those are the usual suspects. then from there, we can dive in further

 

[COBRA90GT]

...Third tail light is dry connections look brand new...

Really surprised your 3rd brake light wasn't the culprit - are you able to swap the unit out with another one (got a spare or maybe even junkyard or aftermarket?). All those symptoms were definitely screaming "3rd brake light," the price of a new OEM 3rd brake light skyrocketed several years ago, wonder if they're even still available...

 

[Sunchaser]

Ive found that advance-trac warnings and limp modes can be traced back to the throttle body. My mom has a 2012 Ford Edge that would randomly have the advance-trac warning come up and cut all power and she would be forced to pull over and restart it which would clear everything like nothing happened. After a lot of research i found that its a fairly common ford electronic throttlebody thing. It malfunctions and shuts putting you into limp mode. Worth checking into. Also that issue when you went into boost sounds like traction control activating. I had something similar happen to me in my raptor. I was getting on the highway on a pretty severe corner while it was raining, must have gave it the beans too much. Cut power and wouldnt shift until i let off the gas then all was ok. Whippled gen 1

 

[perry]

Both drivers and pasenger side front speed sensors intitaly ohm’d out at 24 M ohm. The drivers side was flaky and interment though. The more I messed with it the more it failed. Now it’s permanently reading open. Have one on the way. I hope that wasn’t a fluke and it wasn’t me twisting around on it that caused it to fail. Either way I’ll know soon. Nothing sounds shot in the hub, hard telling why it failed until I get into it.

 

[Whoops]

I had similar dash indicators when I broke a wheel speed sensor. Hope you found the culprit.

 

[FordTechOne]

Both drivers and pasenger side front speed sensors intitaly ohm’d out at 24 M ohm. The drivers side was flaky and interment though. The more I messed with it the more it failed. Now it’s permanently reading open. Have one on the way. I hope that wasn’t a fluke and it wasn’t me twisting around on it that caused it to fail. Either way I’ll know soon. Nothing sounds shot in the hub, hard telling why it failed until I get into it.

These trucks use Active Wheel Speed sensors; checking resistance is not an accurate determination of sensor condition and can actually damage the sensor.

You’ll want to get ForScan or a professional scan tool to pull DTCs, when those warning indicators are on there will be multiple DTCs stored in the ABS Module.

 

[perry]

These trucks use Active Wheel Speed sensors; checking resistance is not an accurate determination of sensor condition and can actually damage the sensor.

You’ll want to get ForScan or a professional scan tool to pull DTCs, when those warning indicators are on there will be multiple DTCs stored in the ABS Module.

Outstanding! Thanks

 

[perry]

These trucks use Active Wheel Speed sensors; checking resistance is not an accurate determination of sensor condition and can actually damage the sensor.

You’ll want to get ForScan or a professional scan tool to pull DTCs, when those warning indicators are on there will be multiple DTCs stored in the ABS Module.

Multiple DTC’s indeed. Thanks

 

[larosa57lr]

check third brake light, I got the same problem with an aftermarket third brake light, if you can get the original, please try that first