Gen 1 Flasher Relay

[Falcon]

Hi, old friends and new ones. I own one of the original 6.2 Gen 1 Raptors (2010), had to wait 3 months for it while Ford was getting over the 5.4 obsession at the beginning. LOVE my truck.. just went over 100,000 miles and it is still pulling strong. I was one of the original members of the FRF and have learned much. My question has stumped me... I am changing over to LED lighting, headlights, Reverse and now all the rest. Didn't have any hyperflash until I started on the tail lights. Understand the Hyperflash issue, but can NOT locate the Flasher Relay. It is my understanding that the 2010 was the last to have an actual discrete relay that is my preferred fix over resistors... but I can't find the damned thing to even try to locate a LED friendly replacement. Anyone cross this bridge before? The new LED Headlights ROCK, and the Reverse lights let me actually see behind me, but the hyperflash is stumping me. Any Help? Would love a Part number for a LED friendly Relay (or is there TWO... one for Driver side and one for Passenger side?) and Relay location. Any Help?

TIA, Dave

 

[Meat2022]

I guess the 2014 is different than the 2010 with this. I did led reverse lights with 0 issue....however the front hazard lights and flashers I did led and got hyper flash so I went back to bulbs...someone will help, you already know how great this forum is.

 

[FordTechOne]

The headlamps and turn signals are module controlled, there is no relay. The module senses the current draw and will activate hyper flash and set a DTC if the current draw is out of spec. It can also set DTCs without any indication to the driver, for example the incorrect headlight bulb current draw. Once the DTC sets a predetermined number of times, the output is disabled and the module needs to be replaced.

 

[Falcon]

Thanks... not sure if the 2010 has a module... but if you are sure you are probably right judging by your handle FordTechOne. If true, you are saying that the only cure for hyperflashing is to use resistors on each bulb? Is that the only answer for ALL Raptors? One last request... what is a DTC, and what module senses overcurrent and needs to be replaced. Thanks for your time!

 

[Ruger]

FYI: I tried LED tail lights on my 2011 and got hyperflash, too.

 

[FordTechOne]

Thanks... not sure if the 2010 has a module... but if you are sure you are probably right judging by your handle FordTechOne. If true, you are saying that the only cure for hyperflashing is to use resistors on each bulb? Is that the only answer for ALL Raptors? One last request... what is a DTC, and what module senses overcurrent and needs to be replaced. Thanks for your time!

Yes, 2010 has a Smart Junction Box (SJB) which powers the lights directly through Field Effect Transistors (FET). The SJB measures the current draw through the FETs and sets Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) when the draw is out of limits (too high or too low). In order to prevent the hyper flash and DTCs the current draw needs to be brought into spec either with a stock bulb or by adding a resistor in line with an LED.

 

[MurderedOutSVT]

I get hyperflash with my led tails.

Where do I find this resistor?

 

[Ruger]

I get hyperflash with my led tails.

Where do I find this resistor?

Diode Dynamics has several:

Search results for: 'anti hyperflash resister'

Automotive LED lighting for cars and trucks, including headlight, fog light, turn signal, backup, tail, interior, halos, demon eyes, boards, strips, and more!

www.diodedynamics.com

 

[MurderedOutSVT]

Diode Dynamics has several:

Search results for: 'anti hyperflash resister'

Automotive LED lighting for cars and trucks, including headlight, fog light, turn signal, backup, tail, interior, halos, demon eyes, boards, strips, and more!

www.diodedynamics.com

Thank you!

 

[Falcon]

FT1... thanks for your info. If I could ask you to bear with me…

• Can you elaborate on your comment "...Once the DTC sets a predetermined number of times, the output is disabled and the module needs to be replaced." I am reading this "Once the Diagnostic Trouble Code [DTC] sets a predetermined number of times [indicating over-current], the output is disabled and the module needs to be replaced”. If you are of a mind to, can you confirm my logic below?
• LED's in the circuit [Passenger=Right Front+Right Rear & Driver=Left Front+Left Rear] RAISES the current flow in the respective circuit. This because the series-parallel circuit comprised of the front and rear bulb [Leg] resistance is lowered by the addition of an LED in place of the resistive element of the stock bulb. IOW the LED leg has lowered circuit resistance and presents a lowered net resistance to the 12 volt supply, leading to increased current flow. Replacing BOTH bulbs with LEDs would increase the current even more.
• As I understand it, the logic of the system is that two [Front + Rear] bulbs presents 2x resistance in a series-parallel circuit. If one leg [bulb] burns out, the open leg no longer provides a path for current… now presenting 1x the resistance to the 12v and the resultant doubling of current in the system drives a HyperFlash and is indicative of a burned out bulb.
• I am a little foggy on the timing of the Flash… but I imagine that there is a simple RC circuit inside the control circuit [IC] that mimics the old school RC circuit inside the Flasher Relay which controls the timing of the flash. In the Old School system, the doubled current flow would change the charge time of the RC circuit that controlled the flash [and the “tic-toc” flash sound] and give you a HyperFlash. I suspect that it was mainly a current limiting technique that had the side effect of indicating that you had a burned out bulb.
• The modern technique is likely a SJB strategy to control overcurrent through the FETs. Replacing the resistive bulbs with LEDs puts the current flow over limit and hence the SJB uses HyperFlash to physically limit the current draw. And, based on what you told us, it is going to make a command decision at a certain number of over-current DTCs and lock out the circuit [and Driver or Passenger flasher circuits].

That said, [please point out any errors if you have the time] I am concerned about the “Module” you refer to. Is this the actual SJB that disables the output and would need to be replaced? Do you have any idea how many DTCs it takes to drive a lock-out requiring a replacement? Haven't priced a SJB, but it doesn’t sound cheap, even if it is just a module on the SJB that would have to be replaced.

My situation at present is that after replacing the front turn signal bulbs with LEDs, the right flasher circuit was HyperFlashing but not the left. I found relays in the main relay/fuse box for the Left and Right flashers for the TRAILER but not the Truck. I thought the answer was to find and replace the Truck Flasher Relays with one that was set up to handle the increased current [and had an adjustment for flasher speed as a bonus]. Couldn't find them, which prompted my original question. Based on your input I am loathe to experiment anymore at the risk of burning out something on the SJB or the entire SJB. Is this a valid concern?

If I elect to add the resistors, do they cause a heating problem on the “always on” [Running Lights] circuits? I have read reports that they get REAL hot... have you seen this?

Thanks for your time!