Full Race's "Gen 2.5" Raptor build

[full-race geoff]

Long time lurker, first time poster - this thread will document my journey as I build my Gen2 Raptor. "Gen 2.5" is the designation for combining the 2021+ Gen3 evolutionary improvements with the simpler 17-20 Gen2 platform. I'll be cherry picking the Gen3 parts-bins and using high quality aftermarket upgrades that prioritize reliability, with performance a close second.

I'm breaking this thread into Background, Turbos, Engine, Chassis, Suspension and Driveline and I will do my best to keep you updated as each segment progresses (slowly). I hope this helps and/or inspires ya'll with your own build! Please post up with any questions



Background:
I'm a mechanical engineer, my team began working with Ford and their EcoBoost engine development team in 2009. Personally speaking, these trucks changed my life in many ways and I am forever grateful for the opportunity Ford brought to us. My love affair with desert trucks started in 1999 when I moved to ASU for Engineering School. I joined the race-dezert.com forum, ordered the VHS tapes "dezert-people 1/2/3/4" and hung out at the old Geiser Bros. I started my company as a turbocharger fabrication shop, bought a toyota pickup, a howe steering box and some sway-a-way's and went at it. Over the years I built a few more toyotas until Jan 2009 - The day everything changed. BorgWarner and Ford said they wanted our help on prototyping a high performance turbo system for 3.5L EcoBoost development engines



Testing was successful and everyone was happy. Ford gave us a green light and the first EcoBoost F150 we built was in 2011 for SEMA 2012 where we introduced to the world the idea of a Front-Mount Intercooler and Upgraded turbos for the 3.5L V6 EcoBoost. I will defend it to my grave that we were the first to put an intercooler in the grille of an F150 ecoboost (6+ years before anyone else!!)

This truck's theme was kind of a precursor to the modern day Tremor: a stock width FX4 with 3.5L ecoboost and twin EFR turbochargers to get the 3.5L to a true 'High-Output' 500+ HP performance level. Fox 2.5" remote resi shocks and icon upper arms leveled the front. Ford awarded us a "Project Excellence" award for the build. also in June 2012 they told me the raptor would probably eventually get this engine so I registered for this forum

<fun fact: the photo below was taken early 2012 and the blue car in the background is an R34 GT-R>



The next few years my team and I worked on 2.3L EcoBoost and did the turbos for "The Fun-Haver" F150 from RTR/Vaughn Gittin Jr/Kibbetech but Ill skip over those and go straight to 2017 - the debut of the Gen2 3.5L and 10R80. Deberti got the 2017 Raptor contract so we helped him with the Front Mount Intercooler and Turbos and then got to work on our truck


Ford awarded us a 2018 contract, to build a 6.5' bed SCAB Fraptor for the Ford SEMA and Toronto Auto shows. The truck was the lightest weight cab spec for a 145" wheelbase + 3.5L HO and would be displayed next to a cab off chassis on it's side. The truck started as a 3.5L FX4, it received the first pair of Garrett Powermax turbos and then we swapped to the 2017+ Raptor Suspension and Axles and was tuned by MPT over the years (fun fact: F150 3.5L and 21-23 Gen3 raptor share the same Compression Ratio and can actually make a little more power than Gen2 Raptor). We wrapped it orange, and then Ford requested it to be highly visible at SEMA coordinating with their display so a blue wrap was temporarily added on top of the orange (semi-gaudy, I know)

We developed the Formline turbo manifolds and kits with this vehicle, it's been a ton of fun. Took it on some off road runs and beat up on some Tundras and Chevys, took it to a few shows like Dirt Expo AZ, offroad expo, a few others.



MPT flew out to AZ and we used the orange truck for a back to back test to validate the formline manifolds VS oem.

At this point the truck was running great, fairly simple setup, super reliable and in excellent condition with low miles. But I wanted to go all-in on a truck - without any contractual obligations - and I have two young boys, so I needed a crew cab. I figured that now was the right time to pause development on this beast and I started searching for my new project truck to build.

My requirements were simple: No sunroof + Avalanche Grey. It turns out non-sunroof is much more difficult to find than I anticipated. It seemed like 99% of gen2 raptors have a sunroof (and I hate sunroofs as much as I hate leaf springs)... Of course basing a used vehicle purchase off of roof type and paint color has some inherent risks associated with that strategy so I was mentally OK with whatever the worst case scenario might be... Eventually I found what I was looking for and decided on this Avalanche grey non-sunroof 802A raptor to build as my new project

 

[full-race geoff]

Turbos

Our business shifted considerably as we focused on the Raptor and F150 EcoBoost platform over traditional racing applications. We've spent thousands of hours developing, testing, removing and installing Raptor turbos and components to know them inside-and-out. With these trucks there is a learning curve, and we figured my new project Raptor could help shorten that by showing everyone installing these turbos is not nearly as scary as people on the internet make it out to be.

The first thing Matt, Corey and I needed to do with the truck was document the transformation from OEM Ford turbos to Full Race Formline kit. We decided to create a high quality turbo kit installation guide + video with all the tips and tricks to help others succeed with their own builds. Whether you're installing Turbo Upgrades or just servicing your turbos this video has some hard earned best practices

complete install guide here:

https://www.full-race.com/media/wysiwyg/Formline_F150/Formline_Turbo_Kit_Install_For_2017-2020_3.5L_F-150_and_Raptor.pdf

The critical things for reliability to be aware with V6 EcoBoost turbo systems are the Oil feeds, Coolant Lines, inconel studs and priming the engine with oil pressure BEFORE initial startup. Additionally - boost leak testing is an important step thats often overlooked. Airflow improvements like intake/downpipe/exhaust configuration matter as well.

PS: I have to say THANK YOU to Graybeard and @Quiker - your posts inspired me to put this document and video together. anybody interested to see their threads, click here: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/upgrading-the-twins.88112/ and https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/new-turbos-in.86259/page-2#post-1672328

OEM Stock vs Gen2 3.5L Garrett Powermax comparisons:


OEM vs Formline Exhaust manifold comparison:


Turbo to Downpipe adapter measurements - OEM (left) vs FR (right)

<img>https://www.fordraptorforum.com/att...2-4807-839b-bd9283552626_1_201_a-jpeg.329701/</img>


Compressor inlet visual comparison:
OEM sized compressor inlet on top, will choke around 19psi boost.
Oversized inlet on bottom, to suit Garrett's large diameter ported shroud compressor inlet


Gen2 Raptor Coolant Line upgrades: Last piece to the puzzle is these tig welded stainless hybrid lines. After working on so many of these Gen2 trucks, I have a tremendous distaste for the OEM coolant lines. We created these hardlines to delete the leak prone OEM rubber bushings and replace with stainless tig-welded (not brazed) + 350F rated flexible hose. Installation and removal is sooo much easier than oem and the reliability factor goes up.

^^^Anyone removing/installing turbos, your future self will thank you for using these.

I hope this post can save you time + get your ecoboost more reliable

 

[full-race geoff]

Engine:
Once the turbo kit install was knocked out, I documented the Gen 3 engine upgrades that will improve Gen 2 reliability.


The HL3Z (2017-2020) phasers get all the attention, but most mechanics seem unaware that replacing with the ML3Z (2021+) phasers is only part of the solution. RBM figured out that there is a ton of compatibility between the Gen2 and Gen3 engines. Metal timing chain guides eliminate the plastic failure point (Red arrow below), coyote lifters/rockers optimize cam:valve actuation, it’s all a good idea to update.



^^^Fun fact: the "roller rocker" cam followers on the Gen 2 / Gen 3 Ecoboost and Coyote engines are often called rocker arms, however they're actually follower fingers (similar to Honda's base K-series engines from the early 2000s era) and fit underneath the cam lobes instead of on top of them as a true rocker arm operates. These function somewhat like the buckets found on the Gen1 ecoboost except that the opposite end of the finger rides on a hydraulic plunger, providing dynamic lash adjustment.

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The following list of Gen3 engine parts will upgrade your Gen2 weak points:

Gen3 Metal Tensioner Arm - Driver's Side (LH): ML3Z-6K255-A
Gen3 Metal Tensioner Arm - Passenger Side (RH): ML3Z-6K255-B
Gen3 Right Timing Chain Tensioner: ML3Z-6L266-B
Gen3 (and Gen 2) Timing Chain: HL3Z-6268-A
(24) Gen3 Valve Lifter Lash Adjusters (coyote 5.0L lifters): BR3Z-6500-A
(24) Gen3 Roller Rocker Finger Followers (2.04 ratio, 18-23 coyote 5.0L rockers): ML3Z-6564-A
(2) Gen3 Engine Timing Camshaft Sprocket (aka Phasers): ML3Z-6C525-A
(2) Gen3 Engine Timing Camshaft Sprocket (aka Phasers): ML3Z-6256-A

Gen2 engine Parts that should be replaced at the same time:
Gen2 Engine Timing Cover Gasket - BR3Z-6020-A
Gen2 Engine Crankshaft Pulley - HL3Z-6312-A *or ATI Part #917317 to really fix it
Gen2 Crankshaft Pulley Bolt - HL3Z-6A340-A
Gen2 Oil Pump - HL3Z-6600-A
Gen2 plastic chain guide A - HL3Z-6B274-A
Gen2 plastic chain guide B - HL3Z-6B274-B
Gen2 Left Timing Chain Tensioner - HL3Z-6L266-A
Gen2 Water Pump - JL3Z-8501-B
Gen2 water pump Gasket A - HL3Z-8507-A
Gen2 water pump Gasket B - HL3Z-8507-B
Gen2 Water Pump O-Ring - BR3Z-8527-A
Gen2 Engine Intake Manifold Gasket - HL3Z-9439-C
Gen2 Valve Cover Gasket - Passenger Side (RH) HL3Z-6584-A
Gen2 Valve Cover Gasket - Driver's Side (LH) ML3Z-6584-G

^^^^These parts listed above is intended for anyone thinking about doing a phaser swap. You should plan to upgrade the other components at the same time - it's no fun to do this job twice. Furthermore, the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) assembly on any V6 is critical for crankshaft health and we've seen the rubber on these Gen2 harmonic balancer crank pulley will break down and deteriorate over time which leads to crankshaft failure. I urge anyone reading this to inspect and consider replacing yours, it's probably trashed

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Cylinder Heads

Headgames motorworks is a cylinder head only machine shop in Princeton, NJ. I’ve known them for 20+ years and they will install new bronze guides, GSC springs and SI Stainless steel valves. Detailed info here:

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NGK Ruthenium spark plugs - these are far and away the best plug I've used in this engine. I prefer these above any other plug tested. Highly recommended even if you arent looking to make power: Heat range 6 for stock turbos and mellow tune. Heat range 7 for bigger turbos and increased boost levels. Smoother idle, improved part throttle, these plugs are the real deal


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Other optional parts:

Gen2 aluminum oil pan - ML3Z-6675-D
Gen2 aluminum Oil Pan specific Oil Pump Pick-Up - LK4Z-6622-B
*replacing the plastic pan, requires a pickup replacement or you will starve the engine of oil
Gen2 Right Valve Cover - HL3Z-6582-F
Gen2 Left Valve Cover HL3Z-6582-G
*these crack at the mounting ears and cause oil leaks

 

[full-race geoff]

Chassis
At this point - the turbos were installed, the engine sounded awesome and I couldn't wait to take the truck out to play for its maiden voyage. This was the part where things got real. My truck had obviously seen some off road use, and it felt OK in a straight line but wonky on turn-in. I brought it back to the shop and put it on the lift then removed the skid plates to visually inspect every component in detail

Immediately my eyes were drawn to a small area of discoloration at the Strut tower / UCA mounts... then I had one of those "Oh s#!t how did i miss that?" moments and discovered it has the typical hairline crack at the coil bucket and the accompanying warp in the frame rail behind the bucket / RH UCA mount area.

Anyone considering to buy a used raptor - This is where the Gen2 frame will fail as our friends at RPG have seen many times. This was an unwelcome surprise, but like I said by purchasing a truck based on roof type and paint color - I was prepared for the worst... and here we are.



I tend to bite off more than I should chew for my personal projects so this type of headache is right up my alley. the options for repairing something like this:

1. pay a body shop to pull the frame and weld the buckets (nope)

2. cut/weld a chunk of new gen 3 frame rail Ford part # ml3z-5019a-b - but then I'd spend a ton of time and be stuck with leaf springs (I hate leaf springs)

-or-

3. use this as an opportunity to continue my theme of Gen 3 upgrades by completely swapping an entire 2021+ raptor frame Ford part # pl3z-5005a-d under my Gen 2 truck. This results with the highly refined Gen3 front strut tower/UCA buckets, 5 linked coil sprung rear end, lower front diff for better CV angles, plus a bit more shown below. all in the simple gen2 form factor
https://parts.lakelandford.com/a/Ford_2023_F-150/132424955__7326298/FRAME--COMPONENTS/MA12120.html

If you read my previous posts, and assumed that fully committing to an entire frame and 5 linked axle swap would be the only way to go - trust your instincts. I started researching everything I could find to cross reference things like the gen 2 vs gen 3 gas tank mounts, abs mounts, fuel line/brake line routings, cab mounts etc.

Now a gen 3 frame + rear 5 links + rear axle is shipping out this week (missing the front end components). Plus now I'll get to see what will fit and what will not and share that info with the community.



Gen 3 frame differences shown in Red then Blue
Gen 3 suspension differences shown in yellow:





next I talked to our friends at RPG about my plan. and apparently they are a bit ahead of me because they already did this exact frame swap on their gen2 truck and offer frame gusseting plates that I plan to weld on before the frame goes under.



And without further ado - here's the latest purchase:



there are some big questions I have and will address in the coming weeks:

gen 3 spindles are taller. can i machine a taller misalignment spacer for the arms I already have? i dont think that will work 100% but it may be 99%. do i swap to a gen3 spindle and if yes, what do I do for a wheel bearing and IWE? (gen3 is different). would like to go +2" wider in the front, tempted by the BOLT kit - however im not sure I want fabricated steel arms/spindles

gen 3 front diff mounts lower in the chassis. is there any difference beyond that? i dont yet know.

gen 3 steering rack is different. unclear to me how

gen 2 airbumps will not fit the gen 3 frame (rear coil spring upper seat is in the way) I have the icon gen2 bump stop kit on there currently, was thinking I'd try and re-use that. I expect it won't bolt up and would need to weld it to the gen3 frame instead of bolting up.

 

[full-race geoff]

Suspension

 

[full-race geoff]

misc

 

[localbrew]

subscribed

 

[thatJeepguy]

Dude if this is real, you’re a legend. Thanks for developing such a sick engine and i bet yr pissed everyone is copying it…

Now Explain to us why you gave it such a ***** intercooler on the gen2 !

 

[full-race geoff]

Dude if this is real, you’re a legend. Thanks for developing such a sick engine and i bet yr pissed everyone is copying it…

Now Explain to us why you gave it such a ***** intercooler on the gen2 !

we had nothing to do with the OEM intercooler - only the aftermarket Front mount kits.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Furthermore, the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) assembly on any V6 is critical for crankshaft health and we've seen the rubber on these Gen2 harmonic balancer crank pulley will break down and deteriorate over time, which can cause crankshaft failure. I urge anyone reading this to inspect and consider replacing yours, it's probably trashed

Gen2 Engine Crankshaft Pulley - HL3Z-6312-A

I'm burning on little sleep but so as of right now there is no upgrade/better part? Just keep replacing the OE unit?