GEN 2 Full Race Radiator and Transmission Cooler Upgrade

[Krillin]

Is there additional discounts, this thread got my fingers itchy to press buy buttons

 

[full-race geoff]

1.) Installed Full Race Radiator
2.) Installed Full Race Transmission Cooler
3.) Installed Full Race FMIC with FR throttle body spacer and TiAL BOV.
4.) Installed Warn VR8S with Factor 55 Prolink winch shackle mount.












Thanks Geoff and the entire Full Race team for paying attention to detail and putting out quality parts.

yeah !! looking good

Is there additional discounts, this thread got my fingers itchy to press buy buttons

free shipping code on our site: shipfree
transcoolers are 50% off with the radiator purchase

i hope that helps

 

[K1llD4shN1n3]

Got back from Melbourne Australia and finally did the install. So here is the outcome.

1.) Installed Full Race Radiator
2.) Installed Full Race Transmission Cooler
3.) Installed Full Race FMIC with FR throttle body spacer and TiAL BOV.
4.) Installed Warn VR8S with Factor 55 Prolink winch shackle mount.

Now for the pictures:

OEM setup:


Full Race setup:









All done... now for round 2 on the dyno with Cobb ProTuner CAMTuning so he can work his magic:



Thanks Geoff and the entire Full Race team for paying attention to detail and putting out quality parts.

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Looks amazing! What does the throttle body spacer do?


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[full-race geoff]

the primary purpose is to add a mechanical BOV, or boost gauge port. the secondary purpose is a slight increase in intake manifold plenum volume

 

[Wfo]

I just installed the full race radiator and transmission cooler. Any tricks for burping the cooling system? Seems to be running slightly higher than stock. I’ve let it idle with heat on high/max defrost with cap off reservoir. If I start with radiator cap off it pukes all over.

 

[full-race geoff]

hey WFO, a few tips that may help:

-When bleeding coolant, you'll want to keep the radiator cap tightened, but the degas tank's cap off.

-the best way to do this job is first apply vacuum to the cooling system. most people do not have or want to buy this tool and it is not mandatory.

-full race radiator cap's primary purpose is to make the radiator easy to fill in OEM configuration. it should be fully tightened any time the engine is running

there are many youtube videos on refilling and 'burping' coolant for ecoboost engines (aka duratec + turbo). some people suggest to hold the engine at 3500rpm for 30 seconds, but i have not yet had to on any of the trucks we've worked on. ymmv

 

[melcam23]

hey WFO, a few tips that may help:

-When bleeding coolant, you'll want to keep the radiator cap tightened, but the degas tank's cap off.

-the best way to do this job is first apply vacuum to the cooling system. most people do not have or want to buy this tool and it is not mandatory.

-full race radiator cap's primary purpose is to make the radiator easy to fill in OEM configuration. it should be fully tightened any time the engine is running

there are many youtube videos on refilling and 'burping' coolant for ecoboost engines (aka duratec + turbo). some people suggest to hold the engine at 3500rpm for 30 seconds, but i have not yet had to on any of the trucks we've worked on. ymmv

That’s exactly what I did.


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[melcam23]

I got turbo upgrade fever Geoff. I thought about dropping you a email to see how’s it going.


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[rw968]

Hi,

Happy holidays all. I need some guidance with the Full Race Radiator install on a 2017 Raptor. I am mid Full-radiator, ATF cooler and Cobb FMIC install. The radiator has two additional hose connections/outlets on the front right as you look at the front of the truck. They have no utility on the 2017 Raptor and they are not blanked/plugged. There are no plugs included in the box either. Am I missing parts or, is the intent that I plug them myself? As the rad is for 5 variants of F150 I assume they have utility on others or perhaps for a charge cooler.

I have attached some photos, apologies they are sideways! In addition there are two very small caps/plugs included but I cannot see what they are for, photo also attached. Does anyone have experience of this?

 

[zombiekiller]

those "tubes" are not "open". Fill the rad with distilled water and plug the other inlets/outlets. Nothing will come out.

The small plugs are for the back of the filler neck.

The cooling system in a raptor is "closed" as far as the radiator is concerned. The overflow bottle takes care of any overpressure situations and both the rad and the overflow have pressure release mechanisms.

Just remember, since the system is closed, you either need to vacuum fill the cooling system, or spend lots and lots of time burping the air out of it. I filled mine the old fashioned way and it took bleed the air out of it ever 50 miles or so for about 1000 miles to get everything settled.

Next time, I'm having it vac filled. It was annoying to have to watch the temp militantly, watch it spike, then pull over and bleed the system, as soon as the temp spiked downwards ( indicative of the air bubble moving out of the motor).