Front end clunk

[t_j]

This is the only truck forum who seems to think that dual shocks are better than a properly engineered single shock / strut and spring setup.

That's for mall crawlers

Great start to your forum membership.

None of the raptor generation f-150's run struts they all have steering knuckles and coil over shocks. As for single shock, there is only so much oil and oil cooling capacity you can get into a single unit. If you want to run longer and harder (I mean who doesn't) then you need more oil cooling capacity than you will ever get with a single shock. Also an internal bypass coil over will never have the adjustability of external bypass shock as there is just not enough space to add bypass's and adjusters for them which is why you end up with dual shock setups.

 

[Ratpatator]

So does anyone have a stock LCA that they can pull the bushing off and measure it to see if what donk says is true. I would try it myself but mine is my daily driver and work truck so I cant just pull it apart and let it sit untill I get a bushing from Moog in hopes of this working. If this is possible I can't believe no one has done it yet.

 

[Grunzen]

So does anyone have a stock LCA that they can pull the bushing off and measure it to see if what donk says is true. I would try it myself but mine is my daily driver and work truck so I cant just pull it apart and let it sit untill I get a bushing from Moog in hopes of this working. If this is possible I can't believe no one has done it yet.

Putting or attempting to put these on this week sometime. Moog replied back with some generic response from someone who looked up the same info I had looked up.

Front Lower Control Arm Bushing | Ford Expedition

They are listed only for 2010 Raptor but I know of no change to the LCA's thru the years of Gen1. I've pulled them out of the box and they look the same as the ones already in there. Length should be fine as the frame mounts are all the same. The 1000 dollar question is are they the same diameter.

 

[Enigma94]

I'm completely stock with only 33k miles and I have noticed a increase in the clunking as I've put more miles on the truck. It's noticeably worse in cold weather as well. Very interested in finding out if it's the LCA bushings and if the Moogs work!!

 

[Grunzen]

OK, so I attempted to change out the bushings. Didn't work out. I ended up getting some replacement LCA's and Cam Bolts from @Hole Shot and putting those in. So far so good. I have to get the alignment done still but it definitely didn't exhibit the clunk over sharp bumps on the way home.

The bushings were definitely shot as I could move them around a bit by hand and there were crescent moon gaps around the center sleeve. The knuckles for the bushings are too big for any bushing press I have access to and the LCA doesn't have the reach to get into the hydraulic press. I can say, with exceptions you cannot and will not be able to replace the bushings in your driveway, garage, etc.. The only alternative is possibly taking them to a machine shop and that is based on the recommendation of someone with experience. The biggest issue is you can't just push them out using the center pin. The rubber will just tear and at best you'll only succeed in pushing that out. You'll need a sleeve that will rest on the edge of the sleeve you're pushing out. Based on how difficult it was to press in the ball joints those sleeves are going to be brutal for extraction and installation. I'm not saying it can't be done still, but it is probably better to just find replacement LCA's. It's not going to be a DIY repair that's for sure.

Enigma94, I'm at 130k miles so I would look at your shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, maybe even your hubs before you worry about bushings. Short of a defective bushing from the manufacturing process 33k miles isn't enough to wear them out or some of the other components for that matter. Hell, mine only wore out because I ran around on blown out shocks and springs for way, way too many miles (50k miles) causing them to cycle outside of their normal operating range for so long.

 

[Enigma94]

OK, so I attempted to change out the bushings. Didn't work out. I ended up getting some replacement LCA's and Cam Bolts from @Hole Shot and putting those in. So far so good. I have to get the alignment done still but it definitely didn't exhibit the clunk over sharp bumps on the way home.

The bushings were definitely shot as I could move them around a bit by hand and there were crescent moon gaps around the center sleeve. The knuckles for the bushings are too big for any bushing press I have access to and the LCA doesn't have the reach to get into the hydraulic press. I can say, with exceptions you cannot and will not be able to replace the bushings in your driveway, garage, etc.. The only alternative is possibly taking them to a machine shop and that is based on the recommendation of someone with experience. The biggest issue is you can't just push them out using the center pin. The rubber will just tear and at best you'll only succeed in pushing that out. You'll need a sleeve that will rest on the edge of the sleeve you're pushing out. Based on how difficult it was to press in the ball joints those sleeves are going to be brutal for extraction and installation. I'm not saying it can't be done still, but it is probably better to just find replacement LCA's. It's not going to be a DIY repair that's for sure.

Enigma94, I'm at 130k miles so I would look at your shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, maybe even your hubs before you worry about bushings. Short of a defective bushing from the manufacturing process 33k miles isn't enough to wear them out or some of the other components for that matter. Hell, mine only wore out because I ran around on blown out shocks and springs for way, way too many miles (50k miles) causing them to cycle outside of their normal operating range for so long.

What would you say the first culprit would be with such low miles? I live in a rural area and the roads aren't the best out here and the clunking is driving me absolutely nuts! It sound like a lower ball joint would if it were going out in any other car... I guess I'll start there? I have had 2 alignments on the truck in the last 4K miles and neither the dealer or alignment shop has said anything about any blown/worn components in the front end. I have a factory warranty so maybe i'll just take the truck in and let them pry around in there and see what they come up with.

 

[Grunzen]

If you have a warranty use it while you can lol. I spent 3 years on rural roads before my move. My wife's MKX had the exact same problems my truck has and they had to replace all the ball joints and 3 of the 4 hubs as well as a driveshaft and carrier bearing. Rural rds can seriously tear some stuff up.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Wheeler]

Brand new to the forum, just got my 2013 Raptor last week. 31k miles, one owner. First thing I noticed was the chatter or rattle from the front end. Just over small wash board or square edge bumps at low speed. It's definitely not "bad" but if you're a car guy that likes stuff to be right, it's more than annoying. Was hoping there was a go-to fix, but it appears there are number of different things it could be. Unfortunately it won't fit on my 4 post lift...YET. LOL So I haven't pulled the wheels to poke around and see what's what. It certainly feels like others have mentioned, like general worn out ball joints or tie rod ends, etc.

I owned a 2010 4x4 XLT since new with larger wheels and tires and level kit, had it up to 96k miles and the front was just starting to feel like this. A tiny bit disappointed, but overall I'm super happy I got this Raptor vs a new cloth XLT for the same dough. Especially knowing I would have done upgrades to the XLT and still not been to this level of truck.

 

[Wheeler]

So I pulled the passenger side wheel off and had a look tonight. Everything appeared tight, I used a pry bar to "feel" around some things. I mean at 30k miles there shouldn't be too much worn out on a relatively clean midwest truck. What I did find was the passenger side half shaft definitely had play up and down, front to back (not in and out as intended) and when rattled around by hand it would resonate through the front drive train. I can only imagine this giggling around at low speed, chattering away. The driver side had a very small amount of play, what I would deem normal wear. I mean it's just basically flopping around up there with no power to it in 2WD mode?

 

[Ratpatator]

Knocking noise seamed to be getting worse, maybe just me but raised the front tires one at a time a few inches off the ground and put a bar under the tire to pry up on the tire I can produce a small knock sound on both sides there is a little play in the lower ball joint but the sound seams to be coming from the shock mount on the frame with a tiny amount of play where the shock mounts to the top hat. Current shocks are fox 3.0

what kind of play is ok in the ball joint. I have been told a small amount is ok. I would think you wouldn't want any play but I also don't want to replace a good ball joint. rebuilt stock shocks are on the way home so I would like to do it all at once if I need to replace them at all