Fox Live Valve rear shocks on Gen 1??

[Canuck714]

Going to run them on my Gen1 using the KHC front buckets: a late November project when my last dirt bike race for the year is done. Have a few months to get the electronics figured out while I get the rest of the parts I'm throwing on (leafs, bumps, etc...). Parts for all of the electronics are cheap, the "expense" will be in the time involved to get it adjusted and working smoothly.

I program process logic controllers and high level control systems as part of my day job. The live valve control on the level I'm going to do is very simple by comparison.

You will never lose the full compression/rebound as the live valve really only controls the bleed/HSC between the main body/reservoir the same as it does in a motorcycle shock: I've been inside a 100 of those or more as I've been revalving/rebuilding dirt bike shocks for decades. The main piston valving will always be present and is not controlled by the live valve. Can it get soft if it fails in a certain way? Sure, but with leaving the system intact on the shock and just working to control the current (the same way it works on the stock Gen2s), the worst case scenario is that you smoke a wire or the electromagnet and the shock fails to full stiff by default same as it would in a stock new Gen2.

I've gotten to drive/play with the Dynamix system in a RZR, and frankly I love the technology/adjustability aspect of it so I really want to give the Live Valves a go on my Gen1.

Nice.. another Moto Guy!
Same here, I do all my own MX suspension, hence why I think it should be fairly easy to make a 3 position switch to control the Hi and Low speed compression adjusters.. That's all the live valve does. Not sure why people think the base setting changes..lol Its a fixed bleed/flow with the shim stack.

With your electronics background, you should be able to get this knocked out pretty easy. Let me know what you come up with and I will buy the same parts/pieces. I want to add this to my son's new to him 2011. (just the rear)

 

[eastreich]

Nice.. another Moto Guy!
Same here, I do all my own MX suspension, hence why I think it should be fairly easy to make a 3 position switch to control the Hi and Low speed compression adjusters.. That's all the live valve does. Not sure why people think the base setting changes..lol Its a fixed bleed/flow with the shim stack.

With your electronics background, you should be able to get this knocked out pretty easy. Let me know what you come up with and I will buy the same parts/pieces. I want to add this to my son's new to him 2011. (just the rear)

When I get it figured out, I will post up a build thread with pictures and all the part numbers/sources I used so anyone else can tackle it!

 

[mechanic0078]

I Was thinking the same thing as you guys. I think the magnetic solenoid is controlled by 12v. So by controlling the amount of voltage to the solenoid it controls the stiffness of the shock. In my opinion it's not rocket science just have to pull the trigger and try it. I would love to see what you guys find out about these shocks.

 

[Alex Dickerson]

Just purchased some take-off live valve rear shocks and looking to buy the RPG delete kit. Has anyone tried it or have any idea how easy it is to install?
Thanks

 

[bruiser]

Just purchased some take-off live valve rear shocks and looking to buy the RPG delete kit. Has anyone tried it or have any idea how easy it is to install?
Thanks

why would a gen 1 need to delete kit? doesn't it plug into the truck side of things not the shock?

 

[eastreich]

why would a gen 1 need to delete kit? doesn't it plug into the truck side of things not the shock?

Because if you don't use the delete kit, the Live Valve defaults to the needle being fully closed: i.e. the shocks will be super stiff which isn't exactly ideal.

Hence why I'm going to make the Live Valves function like the IQ Quick switch setup they now have for UTVs and Jeeps.

 

[bruiser]

Because if you don't use the delete kit, the Live Valve defaults to the needle being fully closed: i.e. the shocks will be super stiff which isn't exactly ideal.

Hence why I'm going to make the Live Valves function like the IQ Quick switch setup they now have for UTVs and Jeeps.

Gen 1's don't have the module that controls the live valves, the delete kit is for when you go after market shocks on a gen 2, so you wont get wrench lights and lose all the drive modes

 

[bruiser]

Because if you don't use the delete kit, the Live Valve defaults to the needle being fully closed: i.e. the shocks will be super stiff which isn't exactly ideal.

Hence why I'm going to make the Live Valves function like the IQ Quick switch setup they now have for UTVs and Jeeps.

My Bad i was looking at the DID

 

[Canuck714]

why would a gen 1 need to delete kit? doesn't it plug into the truck side of things not the shock?

You are thinking of the RPG delete that is for Gen2 trucks. Tricking the computer to be able to use all the existing computer functions without a live valve shock.

What we were referring to was a delete for the solenoid and adjuster on the shock body

 

[wrbsti]

When I get it figured out, I will post up a build thread with pictures and all the part numbers/sources I used so anyone else can tackle it!

Would be interesting to see this work!

Are you doing a simple 3 channel switch(soft/med/hard) or writing logic to integrate auto adjustment between modes based on shock shaft velocity?

How I understand the OE setup to work is that is constantly adjusts based off variety of inputs, shaft velocity via ride height sensors, accelerometer, etc. I wouldnt be surprised if if uses vehicle speed as well.

The Baja mode logic will call for full stiff when ride height sensors show vehicle airborne, however the rest of the time I believe it varies the compression based off all the other data.

Definitely keep us posted!