For those who went to a Tremor Super Duty...

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zombiekiller

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Well said.

And part of what I've noticed from others on here and else where is if someone's owned a Gen 2 Raptor and then they drive a Tremor they may not see the Tremor package as worth it. But they may also just want something a little different vs buying a regular Super Duty.. and as Raptor owners we enjoy having a truck thats special.

And as I said to the OP, coming from a Gen 1 Raptor I see the value in the modes and like them.. but thats all I like. Its still too expensive overall.

I also got 8k off of sticker price for my F350 lariat with the ultimate package, 360 cameras and no pano roof. Think my truck all in was roughly 70k USD.. *note I have to convert my prices from Canadian dollars to USD lol.

Im also waiting on my Carli commuter kit to come so I can see how much better it is vs a stock Tremor.

you're going to be happy with the kit. I'd really recommend the high and low carli steering stabilizers ( and running them opossing). They make a big difference in steering feel on-road.

I'd also recommend considering their front sway bar with their end links. It also made a really big difference, even compared to running the stock swaybar with the pintop kit.

the only things that I really found important to option were the rear selectable locker and the dual HD battery w/ Hd alternator.

I feel like for a super Duty, "rock crawl mode" is ridiculous. Unless your whole goal is to peel every body panel off of the truck while trying to cram it up a jeep trail, you ain't taking a tremor rock crawling. if you're spinning wheels, engage the locker.

For me, I'm more old school. There is no way that I'm using lane-keeping assist or laser-guided cruise when I'm towing. I'm not interested in betting my life and other's lives on that sort of technology.

I am thoroughly impressed by the transmission programming and exhaust brake programming while towing. I used to be a " give me a 6 spd manual " guy when it came to towing. Once I got to tow a heavier load with a newer Ford auto trans, I stopped wanting a manual trans in a tow rig.
 

SVTTrooper

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you're going to be happy with the kit. I'd really recommend the high and low carli steering stabilizers ( and running them opossing). They make a big difference in steering feel on-road.

I'd also recommend considering their front sway bar with their end links. It also made a really big difference, even compared to running the stock swaybar with the pintop kit.

the only things that I really found important to option were the rear selectable locker and the dual HD battery w/ Hd alternator.

I feel like for a super Duty, "rock crawl mode" is ridiculous. Unless your whole goal is to peel every body panel off of the truck while trying to cram it up a jeep trail, you ain't taking a tremor rock crawling. if you're spinning wheels, engage the locker.

For me, I'm more old school. There is no way that I'm using lane-keeping assist or laser-guided cruise when I'm towing. I'm not interested in betting my life and other's lives on that sort of technology.

I am thoroughly impressed by the transmission programming and exhaust brake programming while towing. I used to be a " give me a 6 spd manual " guy when it came to towing. Once I got to tow a heavier load with a newer Ford auto trans, I stopped wanting a manual trans in a tow rig.

Thats why I follow you on IG haha.

I seen your tow pig and knew I needed to go Carli, but since my truck is a daily for work/ weekend tow pig I figured I'd go commuter. I also ordered upgraded sway bar, but as I get settled ill upgrade. Which is exactly why I'm happy I went with Carli over the other brands out there.

I dont use lane keep but I do like having 360 camera so the wife can get used to driving such a big truck.

I haven't used any modes besides slippery mode, and I have to say im super impressed. Mainly because the Wrangler tires are garbage.. I hate them so much, but in slippery mode the truck managed the winter conditions really well vs normal mode.

Granted I took my Gen 1 out later and didn't need any modes lol (not like I have snow mode anyway). Also because the BGFs are way better and Goodyear.
 

zombiekiller

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Thats why I follow you on IG haha.

I seen your tow pig and knew I needed to go Carli, but since my truck is a daily for work/ weekend tow pig I figured I'd go commuter. I also ordered upgraded sway bar, but as I get settled ill upgrade. Which is exactly why I'm happy I went with Carli over the other brands out there.

I dont use lane keep but I do like having 360 camera so the wife can get used to driving such a big truck.

I haven't used any modes besides slippery mode, and I have to say im super impressed. Mainly because the Wrangler tires are garbage.. I hate them so much, but in slippery mode the truck managed the winter conditions really well vs normal mode.

Granted I took my Gen 1 out later and didn't need any modes lol (not like I have snow mode anyway). Also because the BGFs are way better and Goodyear.

total honesty, the commuter kit is going to ride better on pavement than my pintop kit. Yes, the shocks are smaller diameter with less fluid volume, BUT, they'll get up to temp more quickly and will operate more efficiently than mine while on-road. They're no slouch offroad, but as soon as you start talking towing down "sort of" streets with larger bumps, the pintop kit starts shining. Full offroad desert bombing? The pin top kit is going to have more stamina, but the commuter vs pin top will be similar until the commuter kit gets hot.

For most folks, the pintop kit is overkill. I think there might be a picture of me next to "overkill" in the dictionary, so I had to have the pintop kit. After all, I couldn't have King shocks on my raptor and fox shocks on my F250. Its like a law or something. " matchy matchy" . :cool:
 

Mister Pinky

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I would evaluate your lifestyle before buying a diesel. It’s not a matter of if you have issues from the emissions systems, it’s when. If you only do short trips in town and never take it anywhere to get it hot, or put a load behind it, you are going to have issues.

Look at your cost of services because they will be higher. (6 qt. oil change for the 3.5 vs. 14 some for the PS) The cost of fuel filters that must be changed frequently. Not to mention finding a good diesel tech to work on it. They are few and far between with the way the industry is going.

Look at the cost of fuel and DEF. Fuel prices are only going up. Will you be happy with a truck that realistically gets 13-17 MPG if that at $3+ a gallon, plus the cost of additives if your fuel quality is poor or it’s cold out?

Are the HP/TQ numbers attractive? Certainly. But modern diesels are a far cry away from being the reliable tugboats that they used to be back before 2003. There is a reason Ford sank money into the development of the 7.3L gas motor. There is a reason you can get a gas motor in an F-750. Customer preference has dictated it. Why would that be?
 

zombiekiller

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I would evaluate your lifestyle before buying a diesel. It’s not a matter of if you have issues from the emissions systems, it’s when. If you only do short trips in town and never take it anywhere to get it hot, or put a load behind it, you are going to have issues.

Look at your cost of services because they will be higher. (6 qt. oil change for the 3.5 vs. 14 some for the PS) The cost of fuel filters that must be changed frequently. Not to mention finding a good diesel tech to work on it. They are few and far between with the way the industry is going.

Look at the cost of fuel and DEF. Fuel prices are only going up. Will you be happy with a truck that realistically gets 13-17 MPG if that at $3+ a gallon, plus the cost of additives if your fuel quality is poor or it’s cold out?

Are the HP/TQ numbers attractive? Certainly. But modern diesels are a far cry away from being the reliable tugboats that they used to be back before 2003. There is a reason Ford sank money into the development of the 7.3L gas motor. There is a reason you can get a gas motor in an F-750. Customer preference has dictated it. Why would that be?

so what you're saying is, 10MPG at $4+ per gallon is better than 13-17 at $3 per gallon?

$1 per gallon less, plus an additional 3-7MPG is a meaningful efficiency difference.

IMO the additional efficiency offsets a slightly more expensive oil change, fuel filters every 20K miles, and potentially needing a diesel tech all on its own. While maintaining a diesel truck is different, it isn't really any more complex than a gas truck. the total cost of ownership of a diesel truck, compared to the same model with a gas motor, isn't that much different.

btw, diesel is right around $2/gal where I live.

If you never tow, or infrequently tow, and never really need a heavy payload capability, I don't really understand why a 3/4 ton, heavy-duty truck would be under consideration.

the new Powerstroke trucks have a regen function, just like every other modern diesel that I've driven, so "problems" with the emissions system are relative, just like on a gasser.

Somehow, somewhere, the old-wives-tale of motors like the 12V cummins being "bulletproof" came to pass.

Everyone forgets that those motors had PLENTY of their own problems and put out 235 horsepower and 460 lb-ft of torque.

A 2021 F250 Powerstoke puts out 475HP and 1050 lb-ft of torque.

So, double the HP and more than double the torque.

I've had zero issues with my motor. I am not nice to it. I've pleased with the truck, what it does, and its reliability quotient. I have previously owned 12v and 24v dodge trucks. There is no way in hell that I'd willingly go back to them based on my experience with the super duty line.


Now, for most folks, would a diesel F-150 do everything that they wanted, and more? abso-freaking-lutely, but that isn't what the thread is really about.
 

TXRaptor

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Lots of good information in this thread. I own a 2018 Gen 2 and a 2021 Tremor Lariat Ultimate/Blackout. I will be doing the Carli Backcountry 2.5" suspension with 37x12.5x17 Nitto Grapplers as soon as the kit arrives from CJC next week. I went with the Deaver Add-a-Packs to keep the full carrying capacity of the rear 1-ton leafs when towing my 7000 lb TT. I tried towing the camper with my RPG Stage 3 suspensioned Raptor, but it was just too much weight to do it safely.

For those who are saying the Tremor package is a whopping $4200, they have never priced two identical super duty trucks with the options you get with the Tremor package. The Tremor package is only $3975, but when you buy a fully optioned Lariat Ultimate, Lariat Black and High Capacity Trailer Tow, Ford adds $1710 in discounts. (I would be buying the items with or without the Tremor package) All Tremors come with F350 leafs and Dana 275 Rear axles, so there is a another $1000 in savings for buying the F250 Tremor vs the F350 Lariat. (The trucks are identical, rear leaf and axle-wise, so real-life towing capacity is the same) The Tremor has taller front springs and taller rear blocks, plus 35s, but they will all be removed shortly.

In my case, the difference in cost was less than $1000 additional for the Tremor when I optioned them with all the features I wanted. For an extra $1K, I get the Tremor off road modes (not a big deal), water forging front axle (might come in handy), the color-matched fender lips, the smaller front air dam and the Tremor stickers, plus all of the items I will be removing when I do the new suspension and tires. When I sell the Tremor take-off parts on Craig's List, it might be a zero cost difference for me.

Also, there are plenty of deals to be found on new Tremors. I paid $1100 under Invoice (NOT MSRP) and I was able to use my $2500 Private Cash Offer, plus another $250 Ford incentive for a total of $8600 off of MSRP on a special order 2021. I doubt anyone can get even close to that kind of a deal on a new Raptor, especially the 2021s.

Plus, all of my Grey Fords fit nicely in my Texas-sized garage. :cool:

Tremor-Raptor.jpeg


Tremor-Raptor-Shelby.jpeg
 

Badgertits

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I would evaluate your lifestyle before buying a diesel. It’s not a matter of if you have issues from the emissions systems, it’s when. If you only do short trips in town and never take it anywhere to get it hot, or put a load behind it, you are going to have issues.

Look at your cost of services because they will be higher. (6 qt. oil change for the 3.5 vs. 14 some for the PS) The cost of fuel filters that must be changed frequently. Not to mention finding a good diesel tech to work on it. They are few and far between with the way the industry is going.

Look at the cost of fuel and DEF. Fuel prices are only going up. Will you be happy with a truck that realistically gets 13-17 MPG if that at $3+ a gallon, plus the cost of additives if your fuel quality is poor or it’s cold out?

Are the HP/TQ numbers attractive? Certainly. But modern diesels are a far cry away from being the reliable tugboats that they used to be back before 2003. There is a reason Ford sank money into the development of the 7.3L gas motor. There is a reason you can get a gas motor in an F-750. Customer preference has dictated it. Why would that be?

listen....some valid points, but nearly all of em are easily made irrelevant when you consider a) the truck will still be completely serviceable & usable w/ plenty of life left in it w/ 150-200k on the drivetrain & b) it’ll actually be worth something still

All vehicles are a bad investment, but if you’re going to keep something a few years & actually use it, there literally is nothing else out there that will be more valuable & hold value better Mile per mile than a diesel truck & it’s legit not even close

add in the fact that fords diesel trucks are made out of aluminum & that really makes it attractive for someone who will rack up some miles
 
D

Deleted member 17706

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Lots of good information in this thread. I own a 2018 Gen 2 and a 2021 Tremor Lariat Ultimate/Blackout. I will be doing the Carli Backcountry 2.5" suspension with 37x12.5x17 Nitto Grapplers as soon as the kit arrives from CJC next week. I went with the Deaver Add-a-Packs to keep the full carrying capacity of the rear 1-ton leafs when towing my 7000 lb TT. I tried towing the camper with my RPG Stage 3 suspensioned Raptor, but it was just too much weight to do it safely.

For those who are saying the Tremor package is a whopping $4200, they have never priced two identical super duty trucks with the options you get with the Tremor package. The Tremor package is only $3975, but when you buy a fully optioned Lariat Ultimate, Lariat Black and High Capacity Trailer Tow, Ford adds $1710 in discounts. (I would be buying the items with or without the Tremor package) All Tremors come with F350 leafs and Dana 275 Rear axles, so there is a another $1000 in savings for buying the F250 Tremor vs the F350 Lariat. (The trucks are identical, rear leaf and axle-wise, so real-life towing capacity is the same) The Tremor has taller front springs and taller rear blocks, plus 35s, but they will all be removed shortly.

In my case, the difference in cost was less than $1000 additional for the Tremor when I optioned them with all the features I wanted. For an extra $1K, I get the Tremor off road modes (not a big deal), water forging front axle (might come in handy), the color-matched fender lips, the smaller front air dam and the Tremor stickers, plus all of the items I will be removing when I do the new suspension and tires. When I sell the Tremor take-off parts on Craig's List, it might be a zero cost difference for me.

Also, there are plenty of deals to be found on new Tremors. I paid $1100 under Invoice (NOT MSRP) and I was able to use my $2500 Private Cash Offer, plus another $250 Ford incentive for a total of $8600 off of MSRP on a special order 2021. I doubt anyone can get even close to that kind of a deal on a new Raptor, especially the 2021s.

Plus, all of my Grey Fords fit nicely in my Texas-sized garage. :cool:

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Good info sir. So what was your final price OTD? Last night I was researching Lariat Tremors and the cheapest one I could find was around $68k: it has the Tremor package, but not everything was blacked out (didn’t know you could get them like this). The cheapest Lariat blacked out Tremor was around $72k.

You can get a more basic Lariat for around $60-62k as @zombiekiller did himself. Granted the axles and specs will not be the same as the Tremor so it all depends on what you need.

For me, I do like the look of the blacked out Tremor compared to the silver grille and non-black headlights etc. I would wager you could sell the Tremor tires/rims and suspension for at least $2k, so that helps minimize the cost even more. But if I am already paying in the low $70k for the Tremor Lariat, then I’ll just pay the extra and get the Platinum Tremor for another $6-7k and have all the creature comforts. A dealer near me has two black Tremor Platinums for $79k.
 
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zombiekiller

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Good info sir. So what was your final price OTD? Last night I was researching Lariat Tremors and the cheapest one I could find was around $68k: it has the Tremor package, but not everything was blacked out (didn’t know you could get them like this). The cheapest Lariat blacked out Tremor was around $72k.

You can get a more basic Lariat for around $60-62k as @zombiekiller did himself. Granted the axles and specs will not be the same as the Tremor so it all depends on what you need.

For me, I do like the look of the blacked out Tremor compared to the silver grille and non-black headlights etc. I would wager you could sell the Tremor tires/rims and suspension for at least $2k, so that helps minimize the cost even more. But if I am already paying in the low $70k for the Tremor Lariat, then I’ll just pay the extra and get the Platinum Tremor for another $6-7k and have all the creature comforts. A dealer near me has two black Tremor Platinums for $79k.

to be clear, the sticker on my truck, brand new, sitting on the lot in '19 was a little over $69K. I paid $61K out the door, which at the time was a pretty smokin' deal. My main point was that the tremor is cool and all, but you can probably find a lariat without the package at a much steeper discount, then use the savings to do a Carli kit. I personally HATE selling take-off/used parts because I did a lot of craigslist buying and selling for a while. I tend to end up with a pile of parts in a couple of different locations. ( and they are all things that I won't ever use.)

/rant on

I personally despise a large portion of the new "tech" in trucks. It makes them a pain to work on, a pain to modify, and more components = more failures.

you won't hear me complaining about heated/cooled seats, proximity sensors, built-in hotspot, the camera in the 3rd brake light, or a lot of other features that I find useful.

You will hear me complain about how I feel like Ford and every other manufacturer is over-engineering "modes", in particular, how they mess with the brake booster/precharge/brake feel/brake sensitivity as you switch through them. It makes what a driver can expect from the brakes variable, which is not good if you expect one behavior and get a completely different one because you're in the "wrong mode".

/rant off

I used to want every option, now I just want whatever truck it is to be simple and durable.

however, I wouldn't say no if my truck magically had the massage function in the seats. I just have the pauper leather that only has the heat/cool function. :p
 

Mister Pinky

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listen....some valid points, but nearly all of em are easily made irrelevant when you consider a) the truck will still be completely serviceable & usable w/ plenty of life left in it w/ 150-200k on the drivetrain & b) it’ll actually be worth something still

All vehicles are a bad investment, but if you’re going to keep something a few years & actually use it, there literally is nothing else out there that will be more valuable & hold value better Mile per mile than a diesel truck & it’s legit not even close

add in the fact that fords diesel trucks are made out of aluminum & that really makes it attractive for someone who will rack up some miles

So will any gas motor if maintained correctly. The whole “muh diesel longevity” argument in a light duty truck is laughable. The engine may be fine, but how about the drivetrain? The transmission? The transfer case? How about the rubber components? The interior? The electronics?

And while the body is made out of aluminum, the frame and suspension is not.

And there are plenty of things that will hold value like a diesel with mileage. Enough with the hyperbole.
 
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