Florida raptor specialist

[PorterW1111]

Thanks I’m willing to take it wherever. I definitely agree I think it’s ball joint but everyone that has checked it out says ball joints are fine. I just had shocks rebuilt and torqued lower bolts to 425lbs. I am going to try a lower shock bushing highly doubt that’s the issue.
If there is a place that you think can fix the issue I’ll take it there

who did the shock rebuild? do you have factory suspension, factory tie rrods? did you do the shock/coil removal installation or a shop?

 

[suzukimoto2]

who did the shock rebuild? do you have factory suspension, factory tie rrods? did you do the shock/coil removal installation or a shop?

Texas shock works Yes factory and factor tie rods. The top hat was wore out so replaced that when removing strut

 

[PorterW1111]

Texas shock works Yes factory and factor tie rods. The top hat was wore out so replaced that when removing strut

Sorry for the open ended questions but each one is a common point and process of elimination of trying to if what is wrong. You have already got the shocks replaced, know about the lower torque, and had ball joint checked. Depending on how loud the clink is I would check the following,

4wd hub and axle, depending how you removed the shocks you might have possibly dislodged one of the ball bearing from the inner axle housing, the little snap ring is known to distort, I have a post on it here somewhere I’ll have to look.

Next I would crank the lower shock bolt again. 425lbs isn’t really achievable by hand and maybe your air pressure was low and caused torque to be off a little on that bolt.

Last I’d say just triple check your install. Top hat oriented correctly, spring seated properly, all three top bolts tight and so on.

If all that checks out then I’d try the sway bar as mentioned by others. And also prob reach out to TSW and ask their advice though they will likely ask you all of the same things we have asked as well.

 

[suzukimoto2]

Sorry for the open ended questions but each one is a common point and process of elimination of trying to if what is wrong. You have already got the shocks replaced, know about the lower torque, and had ball joint checked. Depending on how loud the clink is I would check the following,

4wd hub and axle, depending how you removed the shocks you might have possibly dislodged one of the ball bearing from the inner axle housing, the little snap ring is known to distort, I have a post on it here somewhere I’ll hav to look.

Next I would crank the lower shock bolt again. 425lbs isn’t really achievable by hand and maybe your air pressure was low and caused torque to be off a little on that bolt.

Last I’d say just triple check your install. Too hard oriented correctly, spring seated properly, all three top bolt tight and so on.

If all that checks out then I’d try the sway bar as mentioned by others. And also prob reach out to TSW and ask their advice though they will likely ask you all of the same things we have asked as well.

I really appreciate it I will certainly check the above mentioned. Also not sure if you have a shop but would be happy to trailer it to Sanford to drop it off.

 

[suzukimoto2]

And also it’s

Sorry for the open ended questions but each one is a common point and process of elimination of trying to if what is wrong. You have already got the shocks replaced, know about the lower torque, and had ball joint checked. Depending on how loud the clink is I would check the following,

4wd hub and axle, depending how you removed the shocks you might have possibly dislodged one of the ball bearing from the inner axle housing, the little snap ring is known to distort, I have a post on it here somewhere I’ll hav to look.

Next I would crank the lower shock bolt again. 425lbs isn’t really achievable by hand and maybe your air pressure was low and caused torque to be off a little on that bolt.

Last I’d say just triple check your install. Too hard oriented correctly, spring seated properly, all three top bolt tight and so on.

If all that checks out then I’d try the sway bar as mentioned by others. And also prob reach out to TSW and ask their advice though they will likely ask you all of the same things we have asked as well

And yes it’s very noticeable

 

[PorterW1111]

I really appreciate it I will certainly check the above mentioned. Also not sure if you have a shop but would be happy to trailer it to Sanford to drop it off.

I don’t have a shop, just a barn out back where I build stuff in my off time. I’d be happy to help but that would be quite the drive and I can’t garantee anything. There is a shop Lawless Motorsports that is closer to you that should be able to figure it out. But if not I’d be happy help take a look.

 

[suzukimoto2]

I don’t have a shop, just a barn out back where I build stuff in my off time. I’d be happy to help but that would be quite the drive and I can’t garantee anything. There is a shop Lawless Motorsports that is closer to you that should be able to figure it out. But if not I’d be happy help take a look.

Are they in Perry?

 

[PorterW1111]

Are they in Perry?

I reached out to the owner to see if I can get more specific details. This is their website. I’ve never had work done by them but I know he is knowledgeable in this industry.

https://lrdracing.com/

 

[suzukimoto2]

I reached out to the owner to see if I can get more specific details. This is their website. I’ve never had work done by them but I know he is knowledgeable in this industry.

https://lrdracing.com/

Thanks. Maybe I’ll reach out to them tomorrow

 

[MFNG]

Texas shock works Yes factory and factor tie rods. The top hat was wore out so replaced that when removing strut

Had TSW do rebuilds. Rears lasted about 10k road miles before they shot craps. Fronts are good so far.

Found nearly new 3.0 live valve delete rears here and the difference is night and day.

FWIW I haven’t gotten rebuilds from elsewhere, but I’d say new is better than rebuilt in my experience.