First time Front Shock rebuild

[Irregular F150]

It's really not that bad if you're just replacing seals. I have a hard time leaving rust or corrosion on anything so i take the extra time and effort to clean them up as best i can. That adds a lot of time and work, stripping, cleaning, coating, etc. The rears are the worst since the tubes are next to each other and you can't get between them easily. I was able to get the main body off but the reservoir was super tight and trying to spin the end cap is difficult. But at least i can get one of them off so i can refinish the entire tube easily, just can't powder coat since i don't want to bake any O-rings.

The cleaning and painting was the only part i know i could do fine. Lol. Now finding a nito fill is another thing.

How about the schrader valves for the nitro fill. Were those fairly easy to do?

 

[Jhollowell]

Its rainy season here so i want to make sure i can complete the job before i pull my shocks

The cleaning and painting was the only part i know i could do fine. Lol. Now finding a nito fill is another thing.

How about the schrader valves for the nitro fill. Were those fairly easy to do?

I bought the seal kit from Forged and it came with schrader valves thread right in. Just FYI if you buy from Forged, they don't include the O-ring for the bottom end cap. They're pretty expensive for what they are but i wouldn't want to deal with the needle filling thing. I found some stainless valves on amazon for a fraction of the price but you have to drill and tap the shock for a 1/8 pipe thread. Not hard but just more work. I bought this regulator and got a nitrogen bottle from central welding. I also got a zero loss air chuck which was super nice and also kind of necessary. I turned the regulator to 200psi but it would only put about 150psi in the shock according to the gauge on the chuck. I had to bump the regulator up to 300psi to get 200psi in the shock.

 

[Jhollowell]

Video of the lower bushing removal and install. Having the right tools makes all the difference.

 

[Jhollowell]

Just finished up one of the rears and have a question for the guys who have done it. I followed the steps in the pdf on page 37 of the DIY thread
30. Install the inner piston of the bypass body first

1. Oil the wear band and place on the valve and carefully push into the bypass body
2. Push the piston all the way down to the bottom of the tube but leave pull tool attached

31. Poor in shock fluid (25.5onces - 750 - 760ML) this volume includes over fill
32. Move the bypass valve up and down SLOWLY to work out any air bubbles
33. Pull the bypass valve up SLOWLY to bring more fluid over to the bypass body so it has a buffer, only a few MM.
34. Install bypass end cap by pushing it down past notch in tube
35. Install snap ring
36. Reinstall main body bypass tube
37. Reinstall and tighten shock screw cap on main piston

When i installed the bypass cap (step 34) i removed the valve core because i thought installing the cap would pressurize the chamber and possibly push the IFP down. I had no way to check this but seemed to work. However, when i installed the shock screw cap (step 37) i put an aluminum tig welding rod through the valve hole to mark the height of the IFP. As i screwed the cap on the main body, it started pushing the IFP up. I know we want a little buffer between the IFP and the end of the tube but if i pulled it up .200" (step 33) and then it comes up another .250" when i screw the cap on, is that too much? should i just bottom it out and then screw the cap on and let that push it up for buffer?

 

[Meat2022]

i thought stainless and aluminium, dont play nice together?

go to autozone and rent their big spring compressor. i bought one and i use a 1/2in ratchet (ok, i lied, 1/2in impact cause im impatient) and it works great.

as for the rest of it, just hurry it up and figure it out. my daughter lives in seattle, i want to send her home with my spare shocks for you to rebuild. see how nice i am? letting you rebuild my shocks in the name of science, and i wont even complain about their life expectancy.

Impatient comment was good lol

 

[Irregular F150]

Is there a secret way to get the perch off. I cant get it to budge…

 

[BenBB]

Is there a secret way to get the perch off. I cant get it to budge…

Don't forget that little setscrew bastard like I did haha! Soak the **** out of it with your favorite flavor of penetrating oil (ideally like overnight), cut the decal away, use force (rubber mallet, press, BFH, etc.)...good luck!

 

[Jhollowell]

I had one that was super stuck. 20 ton press wouldn’t budge it. I had to let it soak in PB blaster for a few days, then heat it with a propane torch and whack the crap out of it with a 5lb sledge. I was almost to the point of cutting it off and just buying a new perch. I don’t know why ford didn’t coat that retaining ring. Raw steel against aluminum in a highly corrosive area is just dumb. I’m an aircraft designer and we go to great lengths to protect our aluminum from corrosion. I’m tempted to try to make my own stainless or titanium retaining ring if i start doing more rebuilds

 

[Irregular F150]

yeah i soaked them overnight and whacked it till my arm was tired (giggity). Got one to move enough to get ring off.

Trying not to give up and send them out. Just trying to save cash and do a new project The second one is the pita one lol.

 

[Jhollowell]

Hit it with a wire brush and clean out all the crap. Let it soak again. Repeat till it comes off