First issue, Won't Start.

[1FRFan]

Bear with me on my first and long post. Glad to be here.

Well we have enjoyed our Raptor very well since Aug 2017 and as far as problems with it, well nothing big only that I hear some clunking/rattle in the front suspension and replaced the tires but that has been it…………until Sunday.

Driving into the neighborhood the truck kind of had a hiccup which concerned me, as I got to the stop sign and started to take off again the truck began to sputter and move very slowly. I managed to only make it to the front of my house, not even into my drive way but I did managed to park it on the curb as the engine died. I tried to start it several times and it would not want to stay running, it would kind acted like it was going to start normal and seconds later it would sputter and die. So next day at work I began to dive in here and research. Found the fuse 27 issue and the Purge valve issue and the Pump driver issue. Now, all this time I could hear the fuel pump when I would turn the key. So then I decided to check fuse 27 and so I pulled it and looked at it, it looked good. No signs of burning or melting so I stuck it back in and tried starting it again, same thing and no go. But this time I could not hear the fuel pump any more upon initial turning of the key. I thought for sure I had messed something up since I did not disconnect the battery upon initially pulling fuse 27. So I then pulled the horn fuse and this time I did disconnect the battery then inserted it into the 27 slot, still no pump and no go.

Decided to pull the Fuel pump driver and replace it. Again tried to start it, no go. This time however, I could hear the fuel pump when turning the key. So that was good, I think.

Next I decided to replace the Purge Valve, again no go. So at that time decided that it was time to throw in the towel for me and just take it to my mechanic, not the dealer which I hope I don’t have to end up at.

I also bought the Fuse relocate kit which I did not install. I started to, but once I pulled the fuse box off and pealed some of the tape off the wire harness to get some play room it was still hard to turn the box over to get to the wire. Not wanting to mess anything else up I decided to leave that for the more pro folks.

So now it is at the shop and waiting on word. Good mechanic and very honest, done business with him for the last 10 years. He was the one that told me about the fuse 27 relocation kit before I started diving into it myself. I always consult with him and he’ll guide me through but this time I was not comfortable with doing more. Let me know if you have any experiences or ideas as to what I could be facing. Thank you all.

Armando

 

[BenBB]

Bear with me on my first and long post. Glad to be here.

Well we have enjoyed our Raptor very well since Aug 2017 and as far as problems with it, well nothing big only that I hear some clunking/rattle in the front suspension and replaced the tires but that has been it…………until Sunday.

Driving into the neighborhood the truck kind of had a hiccup which concerned me, as I got to the stop sign and started to take off again the truck began to sputter and move very slowly. I managed to only make it to the front of my house, not even into my drive way but I did managed to park it on the curb as the engine died. I tried to start it several times and it would not want to stay running, it would kind acted like it was going to start normal and seconds later it would sputter and die. So next day at work I began to dive in here and research. Found the fuse 27 issue and the Purge valve issue and the Pump driver issue. Now, all this time I could hear the fuel pump when I would turn the key. So then I decided to check fuse 27 and so I pulled it and looked at it, it looked good. No signs of burning or melting so I stuck it back in and tried starting it again, same thing and no go. But this time I could not hear the fuel pump any more upon initial turning of the key. I thought for sure I had messed something up since I did not disconnect the battery upon initially pulling fuse 27. So I then pulled the horn fuse and this time I did disconnect the battery then inserted it into the 27 slot, still no pump and no go.

Decided to pull the Fuel pump driver and replace it. Again tried to start it, no go. This time however, I could hear the fuel pump when turning the key. So that was good, I think.

Next I decided to replace the Purge Valve, again no go. So at that time decided that it was time to throw in the towel for me and just take it to my mechanic, not the dealer which I hope I don’t have to end up at.

I also bought the Fuse relocate kit which I did not install. I started to, but once I pulled the fuse box off and pealed some of the tape off the wire harness to get some play room it was still hard to turn the box over to get to the wire. Not wanting to mess anything else up I decided to leave that for the more pro folks.

So now it is at the shop and waiting on word. Good mechanic and very honest, done business with him for the last 10 years. He was the one that told me about the fuse 27 relocation kit before I started diving into it myself. I always consult with him and he’ll guide me through but this time I was not comfortable with doing more. Let me know if you have any experiences or ideas as to what I could be facing. Thank you all.

Armando

Fuse 27 was my first thought too, let us know if that does anything. Mere conjecture but were it mine I'd rule out intake (filter, throttle body, Mass Air Flow sensor), exhaust (obstruction, cats), and check wiring, specifically crank sensor. No Service Engine light or codes? Could it be crappy fuel or contamination? Interested to hear what they find...

 

[Black_Valkyrie]

Did you pull any codes or use a code reader or any type of diagnotisic device?

 

[1FRFan]

Fuse 27 was my first thought too, let us know if that does anything. Mere conjecture but were it mine I'd rule out intake (filter, throttle body, Mass Air Flow sensor), exhaust (obstruction, cats), and check wiring, specifically crank sensor. No Service Engine light or codes? Could it be crappy fuel or contamination? Interested to hear what they find...

Thanks for the input and you are on track. so the truck is running, well was lol, until this morning. He called me yesterday and said the truck was running and so I went to pick it up. He said that he had cleaned the MAF and that made it start. so I figure that this is a good point to add that about 3 weeks ago a installed a new K&N filter; if it adds anything to the puzzle. he said that there were no codes either. so he said take it and drive it and see how it does. Last evening it worked good and didn't feel any issues but this morning the wife started driving it off to work and she had to turn around because she said it started doing it again, not as bad she said but it is hesitating. so I will call him today and take it back and see what's next. thanks.

Armando

 

[BenBB]

Thanks for the input and you are on track. so the truck is running, well was lol, until this morning. He called me yesterday and said the truck was running and so I went to pick it up. He said that he had cleaned the MAF and that made it started. so I figure that this is a good point to add that about 3 weeks ago a installed a new K&N filter; if it adds anything to the puzzle. he said that there were no codes either. so he said take it and drive it and see how it does. Last evening it worked good and didn't feel any issues but this morning the wife started driving it off to work and she had to turn around because she said it started doing it again, not as bad she said but it is hesitating. so I will call him today and take it back and see what's next. thanks.

Armando

Appreciate the update, have you driven it yet today? Romp on it maybe? Nothing wrong with a K&N, as long as you're familiar with washing & oiling them right, I guess there's a (albeit slim) chance the K&N oil kinda fouled the MAF, but for me that would just mean cleaning the MAF occasionally (really easy just hose it down with this).

Hope you get it sorted, at least it starts, I'd still get fuse 27 done if you haven't already...and to play devil's advocate this could be the perfect excuse for a tune and/or pedal commander if you've considered them. Keep us posted...

 

[Ruger]

Thanks for the input and you are on track. so the truck is running, well was lol, until this morning. He called me yesterday and said the truck was running and so I went to pick it up. He said that he had cleaned the MAF and that made it started. so I figure that this is a good point to add that about 3 weeks ago a installed a new K&N filter; if it adds anything to the puzzle. he said that there were no codes either. so he said take it and drive it and see how it does. Last evening it worked good and didn't feel any issues but this morning the wife started driving it off to work and she had to turn around because she said it started doing it again, not as bad she said but it is hesitating. so I will call him today and take it back and see what's next. thanks.

Armando

Yep, I had the same problem with a K&N filter on a previous truck. If there's too much oil on the filter element, it'll gum up the MAF sensor. I've stayed away from oiled air filters ever since.

 

[Pyro3601]

not to thread jack, but i'd love to find a dry filter that would fit the roush intake.

we have seen many mass air flows badly fouled by oil filter excessively oiled here in GM land. cause no starts and a plethora of other problems

 

[1FRFan]

I have replaced the K&N filter. I bought a regular filter last night and replaced it. so that has been taken care off.

If the MAF was oiled up and was/is causing the issue, (1) do you think I might need to replace it? and (2) do you think that I might need to clean the throttle body too or is that more tolerable to the oils and can a dirty TB be partly to blame here? if you think that the TB got oiled up and needs cleaning, would I need to remove it or can I just spray it in place?
first I am going to remove the MAF again and spray it to clean it to see if I can get the truck started and then address the TB cleaning.

Armando

 

[Riddick]

not to thread jack, but i'd love to find a dry filter that would fit the roush intake.

we have seen many mass air flows badly fouled by oil filter excessively oiled here in GM land. cause no starts and a plethora of other problems

Roush oil filter is no different than a dry filter as far as filtering goes. I just cleaned mine up, air dried in the sun for a day, put a pre-filter on it and been running ever since with no issues. When dirty just clean it up like an oil filter and go again.

---------- Post added at 11:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:10 AM ----------

I have replaced the K&N filter. I bought a regular filter last night and replaced it. so that has been taken care off.

If the MAF was oiled up and was/is causing the issue, (1) do you think I might need to replace it? and (2) do you think that I might need to clean the throttle body too or is that more tolerable to the oils and can a dirty TB be partly to blame here? if you think that the TB got oiled up and needs cleaning, would I need to remove it or can I just spray it in place?
first I am going to remove the MAF again and spray it to clean it to see if I can get the truck started and then address the TB cleaning.

Armando

A slightly dirty TB from the oil residue shouldn’t be an issue. All it’s doing is metering air flow. If you’re like me, I like keeping the air induction clean as possible to keep crap sucked in the engine. Challenging as I live in a dusty climate.

 

[Pyro3601]

I always manage to over oil.