Everything you wanted to know about IWE and then some...

[Dane]

I won't explain the long story of why, but does anyone have pictures of the various valves involved in the Gen 1 IWE vacuum system and where to find them? I'm troubleshooting an issue that's north of the vacuum line/IWE. I'm familiar with the purge solenoid and the vacuum control valve (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A2D3YO/?tag=fordraptorforum-20) right next to the solenoid. Where are the other check valves that could cause issues and how many are there?

Now the short story - I'm getting an IWE grinding from the passenger side ONLY when towing something heavy uphill - so high engine revs, but more importantly under sustained boost (supercharger). I've vacuum tested everything south of the solenoid and all is well. I'm very familiar with replacing vacuum lines and IWEs as well as pressure testing them. I think I'm slightly losing vacuum when under sustained boost and I think it's happening at the solenoid or higher. I do have a new solenoid and control valve (link above) coming. For only $30 I'm just going to throw those parts at it. I've replaced the solenoid before, but never the control valve or any check valves (which I haven't found yet).

Thanks!

 

[Milertimeraptor]

With Top Perch and 37's and higher miles i'm starting to hear some slight clicking, thinking it might be time to replace the IWE system since this is a wear and tear part...
the question is replace the 1: 4wd actuator solenoid 2: Control valve 3: Both the Actuator Assemblies.
Or
I could also go the route of just Locking the hubs full time with the RCV IWE Eliminator.

Does anyone have any opinions on either of the two routes and if there has been anything I missed? I guess if you really wanted to do it right in theory new lines would be a plus but seems like it would be a much bigger job as well if not needed.

hopefully the clicking would to be eliminated doing either of these two options, I don't know which route id rather take.

 

[MFNG]

With Top Perch and 37's and higher miles i'm starting to hear some slight clicking, thinking it might be time to replace the IWE system since this is a wear and tear part...
the question is replace the 1: 4wd actuator solenoid 2: Control valve 3: Both the Actuator Assemblies.
Or
I could also go the route of just Locking the hubs full time with the RCV IWE Eliminator.

Does anyone have any opinions on either of the two routes and if there has been anything I missed? I guess if you really wanted to do it right in theory new lines would be a plus but seems like it would be a much bigger job as well if not needed.

hopefully the clicking would to be eliminated doing either of these two options, I don't know which route id rather take.

I have to say that with all the horror stories I have heard here about the IWEs, I have had zero regrets going to the RCV delete.

My logic being: why wait for it to fail, and/or replace it when you can just delete the whole thing.

FWIW I don’t hardcore off-road because I don’t have anywhere near me that allows that, but I haven’t had any issues engaging or disengaging this winter in all the snow we just had.

 

[Johndeere99]

That was my thoughts too. 2014 with 160K. I just went with the Dormans. Liked that they sealed like the originals and had a grease fitting to give it a shot of fresh grease when servicing.

 

[nipplesNchowder]

Best place to buy IWEs?

 

[MFNG]

Best place to buy IWEs?

Replacements for OEM or the deletes?

 

[nipplesNchowder]

Replacements for OEM or the deletes?

Replacements for OEM, but not necessarily Motorcraft depending if there are better aftermarket alternatives

I'm also probably going to get the silicon lines from forgedoffroad.

 

[Nick V]

I have the whining/whirring/vibration noise coming from the front end, felt in the steering wheel and brake/gas pedals especially during deccel and braking. Brought this to the dealers attention a few times and eventually took matters into my own hands since they were reluctant to repair.
I checked the vacuum lines in the fender wells and moved them around just to see if there was any cracking. After doing so, the noise got significantly worse and vibration so I went in to purchase the new vacuum lines. Instead, the dealer gave me service bulleting 22-2219 (https://www.tsbsearch.com/Ford/22-2219) to remove the vacuum line from the IWE entirely. This resolved the issue about 95%... Wondering if the remainder is just tire noise.

 

[Toddster]

I took my 2012 to a local Ford dealer for this issue. They claimed to have repaired it. However, it came back within 12 months of the repair. They are refusing to honor their warranty because they can't duplicate the front end grinding sound. This is the crux of my issue. The sound only seems to be there after driving the truck for extended periods at high speeds. Since I hadnt taken any long trips since the initial repair, I had no idea the problem was still there. Any suggestions on how to get the sound to duplicate so I can show the dealrship?

 

[someday]

Go straight there after a long trip. Take the long way to the dealership

did they do both sides?