Eibach Pro-lift springs installed with pics and comments

[FrenchRaptor]

Thanks for the info Nick!! I’ll give things the once over and see how I do.

 

[Leftsidej]

Noticed a clunk from the front end this weekend and am wondering what it could be. Had the Eibach springs installed and made sure they torqued the shock bolt to 406ft/lbs. went over a pretty good rise in the road and when the nose of the truck was in the highest position and the shock dropped down after clearing the rise, I heard a noticeable clunk from the front end. Anyone experienced anything similar after the Eibach installs??

not after Eibach install, but check your sway bar links. Should not have any play in them. Been a problem for several guys on here.

 

[FrenchRaptor]

Like I said earlier... only 900 miles on the truck. Can’t imagine sway bar bushing issues. Hell, can’t imagine anything other than maybe a torque issue on the shock bolts or upper mounts. I’ll find it....

 

[Swaddict]

got mine installed and no problems

 

[FrenchRaptor]

Beauty dude!! What are running for tire/wheel size??

 

[Badgertits]

Like I said earlier... only 900 miles on the truck. Can’t imagine sway bar bushing issues. Hell, can’t imagine anything other than maybe a torque issue on the shock bolts or upper mounts. I’ll find it....

My truck had front shocks installed w/ some of the platstic protective wrap still in place & clamped in place @ the lower shock mounting point. Aesthetic & easy to "fix" - but what makes you think your truck couldn't have made it outta the factory w/ a loose sway bar end link bolt? They can back out just as normal wear/tear - but if not tightened exactly to spec when built - doesn't matter how many miles or how new it is - it'll cause the link to get loose.

 

[FrenchRaptor]

That’s true badger but I had no clunking prior to the Eibach install. Just sayin’....

 

[Badgertits]

Go with the +4 The rake looks good! That's what I'm going to do as well!

This is why I haven't installed my Eibachs yet - besides the price of the rear leafs - I am adding these springs up front for following reasons - coming from a 2.5" "liftted" GMC that I added 1" taller blocks in rear to keep raked look - I HATE HATE HATE the nose high look & I WILL haul/tow occasionally - I want the added ground clearance up front & slightly more controlled handling, but I am not willing to do it while sacrificing the trucks already weak payload & making a "barely level" or "slightly nose high" stance into an EXTREMELY nose high embarrassing look - and im sure over time even if you don't do much work stuff w/ the truck eventually as the rear springs/shocks wear w/ just the eibachs up front you'll wind up perpetually slightly nose high.

And comments like this throw a wrench into my plan yet again lol - may just sell the eibachs - that's how much I HATE nose-high stance.

I've heard all differing stuff - that combo of eibachs w/ deavers +2 is level, +3 is supposedly stock slightly raked stance empty, +3HD is supposedly stock/slightly raked stance empty but when laden won't go into full "nose high" mode & allow for more constant payload in bed.

Now I'm hearing Deaver +4 is the key to preventing nose high look while empty and/or towing/hauling???? What about the "HD" designation??

This is an expensive mistake to make - I wanna get it right lol

I WANT the rear perched @ least 1-1.5" higher than the front end in ALL conditions or close to all conditions as I can get. The other question would be when it comes to Deaver +3 HD's vs. standard +4s - will the HDs ride worse unladen - more like an HD truck?? Is it a pre-requisite that you ALWAYS keep a certain amount of weight in bed to have a decent ride if you run the +3HD setup?

This is very confusing. The varying angles people take pics of their raptors once the suspension is modified + the huge tire setup really makes it tough to get a feel for what the different setups really do to the stance of the truck. In person is really the only way IMO

 

[Badgertits]

That’s true badger but I had no clunking prior to the Eibach install. Just sayin’....

Yeah I hear ya - I just randomly addressed a clunk on my Vette that I was guessing was finally front ball joint(s) (45k miles) - or possibly the adjustable endlinks outta wack from hitting a pothole causing the bar to make contact w/ lower A-arm in certain conditions (can happen) - nope - instead it was a loose lower bolt on passenger's side swaybar endlink causing a rattle going over bumps @ low low speed while the suspension wasn't under load. I had just had those front links adjusted & TQd to spec like 1k miles prior during an alignment - of course they're adjustable 3 piece solid metal heimlinks so more prone to making noise in general not apples to apples but good example of how stuff can quickly get loose in normal driving conditions if not originally TQd to spec - & in general, ball joints & endlinks (along w/ bushings) are usually the most common front end noise culprits when it comes to bumps - & in lower mileage vehicles its the end links way before ball joints/bearings

 

[FrenchRaptor]

I hear ya Badger and I appreciate the shared info. I figure it has something to do with torque specs and possibly something settling, now making a slight clunk. I’m sure I’ll get to the bottom of it.