Eibach and Deaver Installation Help

[Gerald]

Hey everyone. I'm planning to upgrade to Eibach springs and Deaver HD +3 leaf springs. I'm debating whether I want to try the installation myself or have a shop do the work. Anyone in the greater Houston area interested in spending a weekend on the installation? I could use some experienced help or really just anyone interested in how to install these components. I've never tried this kind of installation and more eyes and thoughts on the process are usually helpful. Not sure I would do this until September or October. Just too damn hot right now.

 

[MEIRONMAN207]

If you drive up here we can do it both our trucks in Oct., or if you can wait later until Dec or Jan we can meet in FL instead ...what do you say?

 

[Hdscreens]

I might be interested. I’m considering doing the +2 deavers and pretty sure I’ll be doing the install. If everything goes at least half as planned more than likely it would be late Sept or Oct. I’m in SA so only a 3 hr drive.

Anyone have pics to post of Raptor with +2 deavers? At first I thought about keeping stock height but I don’t want to lose any off-roading capability just not sure if it would look strange to go +2 on rear height and leave front stock height?

 

[Gerald]

If you drive up here we can do it both our trucks in Oct., or if you can wait later until Dec or Jan we can meet in FL instead ...what do you say?

As many of us Texans like to say........."where in Texas is Maine?!" I have a daughter in Maryland, maybe we can meet halfway..........

I might be interested. I’m considering doing the +2 deavers and pretty sure I’ll be doing the install. If everything goes at least half as planned more than likely it would be late Sept or Oct. I’m in SA so only a 3 hr drive.

Anyone have pics to post of Raptor with +2 deavers? At first I thought about keeping stock height but I don’t want to lose any off-roading capability just not sure if it would look strange to go +2 on rear height and leave front stock height?

I'll definitely keep you in mind for the install. I don't have an urgent timetable for the install, so late Sept or October would work out.

 

[BroncoAZ]

I might be interested. I’m considering doing the +2 deavers and pretty sure I’ll be doing the install. If everything goes at least half as planned more than likely it would be late Sept or Oct. I’m in SA so only a 3 hr drive.

Anyone have pics to post of Raptor with +2 deavers? At first I thought about keeping stock height but I don’t want to lose any off-roading capability just not sure if it would look strange to go +2 on rear height and leave front stock height?

Deaver +2 are stock height, Deaver +3 are 1" lift. You are removing the 2" factory block to install them.

Many here seem to like the Deaver +3 (1” rear lift) and the Eibach coils (about +2” front lift) for a raised truck with just a little bit of rake. Deaver +2 with the Eibach coils is either dead level empty or on some trucks it looks a touch nose high.

 

[TurboTJ]

Deaver +2 are stock height, Deaver +3 are 1" lift. You are removing the 2" factory block to install them.

This ^

 

[melvimbe]

Gerald, I'm in. Unfortunately, I have no experience, but would be interested to see how it's done. Not sure I'd ever want to do this on my truck, but my son wants to lift his some day and it would be good to know all that it entails.

Of course, he wants to go full bro-dozer, so not exactly the same thing.

 

[Cribz]

Do you have the capacity and tools to compress your front springs? I'm thinking about the same process and parts, but not sure if my spring compressors are up to the task.

 

[JAndreF321]

I've been working on my BMWs for a while and this install made me a bit nervous just because everything was very different and the materials are a lot heavier than what you'd find on your average German car or SUV. When I got into it, it turned out to be the easiest work I've done mechanically. It was just the weight and the tools which made it more difficult/expensive. You can definitely do it your self, just make sure you have all the tools, plenty of time, and follow the instructions.

The front and rear basically use the same tools. Make sure you have 8, 10, 18, 19, 21, 24, 27, and 30mm wrenches and sockets. You need a breaker bar and a torque wrench that does up to 250 ft lbs (more depending on the instructions you're using). You also need a reciprocating saw with like 10 blades, wheel chocks, 6 ton and 3 ton jack stands, and at least one 2 ton jack with range up to 22-24". To make things easier/safer you should have an angle grinder, second jack, impact wrench, ratchet strap, ratcheting wrenches.

You won't always be able to fit a ratchet to tighten/loosen a bolt so you do need the wrenches. The breaker bar is also necessary to fit in certain areas like between the subframe and the spare tire where the torque wrench/ratchet won't fit. Reciprocating saw is to cut your old front leaf spring bolt off on the driver side due to the gas tank (this took me like 45 min and lots of profanity). The 6 ton jack stands are for the vehicle, but if you have high rise stands, that would be safer to hold from the tow bar. One of the jacks would be used for safety, the other to lift the axle up and down. 3 ton jack stands are to support the axle. Angle grinder is for the leaf pack center pins (if they aren't precut) and for the passenger side front leaf spring bolt. ratchet strap is to help align the new leaf springs. Ratcheting wrenches saves time in hard to reach places. The 8 and 10mm wrenches are for the front UCA and tie rod since the nut has to be removed using two wrenches. You MUST get the front springs replaced using a professional spring compressor. This was a bit difficult for me WITH the professional stuff since you have to align everything perfectly and the tension requires a lot of strength. I recommend taking the unmounted coil/strut assembly to a shop if you don't have a local DIY shop with the compressor. If you want to risk life or eyesight then you can try using 2 sets of spring compressors (4 total) to make it work. If you're used to replacing suspension on other vehicles take note that you cannot preload the springs on this truck before torqueing because they are so stiff it will only lift the vehicle (that is how much pressure is on those front coils). You have to drop the vehicle on the tires and roll back and forth before final torque.

For the leaf springs, if you're going to put weight in the truck at all get the +3 Deavers. I have Eibachs in the front and and Icons on option 2 in the rear which is equivalent to +3 Deavers and with 500lbs in the back I only have 1/2" rake. When I loaded up this weekend for camping I had negative rake. The leaf springs settled over time, but the front hasn't settled at all.

I talk about all this in my build thread:
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/remi-raptor-build.77209/page-3

 

[Gerald]

I've been working on my BMWs for a while and this install made me a bit nervous just because everything was very different and the materials are a lot heavier than what you'd find on your average German car or SUV. When I got into it, it turned out to be the easiest work I've done mechanically. It was just the weight and the tools which made it more difficult/expensive. You can definitely do it your self, just make sure you have all the tools, plenty of time, and follow the instructions.

The front and rear basically use the same tools. Make sure you have 8, 10, 18, 19, 21, 24, 27, and 30mm wrenches and sockets. You need a breaker bar and a torque wrench that does up to 250 ft lbs (more depending on the instructions you're using). You also need a reciprocating saw with like 10 blades, wheel chocks, 6 ton and 3 ton jack stands, and at least one 2 ton jack with range up to 22-24". To make things easier/safer you should have an angle grinder, second jack, impact wrench, ratchet strap, ratcheting wrenches.

You won't always be able to fit a ratchet to tighten/loosen a bolt so you do need the wrenches. The breaker bar is also necessary to fit in certain areas like between the subframe and the spare tire where the torque wrench/ratchet won't fit. Reciprocating saw is to cut your old front leaf spring bolt off on the driver side due to the gas tank (this took me like 45 min and lots of profanity). The 6 ton jack stands are for the vehicle, but if you have high rise stands, that would be safer to hold from the tow bar. One of the jacks would be used for safety, the other to lift the axle up and down. 3 ton jack stands are to support the axle. Angle grinder is for the leaf pack center pins (if they aren't precut) and for the passenger side front leaf spring bolt. ratchet strap is to help align the new leaf springs. Ratcheting wrenches saves time in hard to reach places. The 8 and 10mm wrenches are for the front UCA and tie rod since the nut has to be removed using two wrenches. You MUST get the front springs replaced using a professional spring compressor. This was a bit difficult for me WITH the professional stuff since you have to align everything perfectly and the tension requires a lot of strength. I recommend taking the unmounted coil/strut assembly to a shop if you don't have a local DIY shop with the compressor. If you want to risk life or eyesight then you can try using 2 sets of spring compressors (4 total) to make it work. If you're used to replacing suspension on other vehicles take note that you cannot preload the springs on this truck before torqueing because they are so stiff it will only lift the vehicle (that is how much pressure is on those front coils). You have to drop the vehicle on the tires and roll back and forth before final torque.

For the leaf springs, if you're going to put weight in the truck at all get the +3 Deavers. I have Eibachs in the front and and Icons on option 2 in the rear which is equivalent to +3 Deavers and with 500lbs in the back I only have 1/2" rake. When I loaded up this weekend for camping I had negative rake. The leaf springs settled over time, but the front hasn't settled at all.

I talk about all this in my build thread:
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/remi-raptor-build.77209/page-3

Wow! Thanks for the info and tips! And for a link to your build thread. I'll definitely be checking that out. I plan to pull a 23 ft travel trailer (27 ft with the tongue) that has a tongue weight between 550 lbs and 600 lbs. That's why I'll be getting the Deaver HD +3 leafs. Here is the list of tools you mention and what I've currently got:

• 8 mm wrench and socket (regular only) - Yes!
• 10 mm wrench and socket (regular and deep) - Yes!
• 18 mm wrench and socket (regular and deep) - Yes!
• 19 mm wrench and socket (regular and deep) - Yes!
• 21 mm wrench and socket (deep only) - Yes!
• 24 mm wrench and socket (deep only) - Yes!
• 27 mm wrench and socket (deep only) - Yes!
• 30 mm wrench and socket (deep only) - Yes!
• Breaker bar - No, but I will be getting one!
• Torque wrench - No, the one I have only goes to 150 ft-lbs
• Reciprocating saw - Yes!
• Wheel chocks - No, but I'll be getting some!
• 3 ton jack stands - Yes!
• 6 ton jack stands - No, but will be getting some!
• 3 ton floor jack, yes, but only goes to 19 5/8 inches
• Angle grinder - Yes!
• Second floor jack - No
• Impact wrench - Yes! (pneumatic)
• Ratchet strap - Yes!
• Ratcheting wrenches - No
• Spring compressors - No, plan to rent

The green items I have or will have by the time of the install. The red items are things I hope someone has and can bring over for the install. My 3 ton jack doesn't go as high as you mention, but I might make do. I would plan to rent/borrow the spring compressors from a local auto parts store. I would get two sets (4 total pieces) to compress the springs for the added redundancy. I don't think it will be too dangerous if I use 4 pieces to compress. I've seen some videos were a single set was used and when one side broke, not a good day. But I'm not necessarily opposed to taking the shocks to a local shop so that they can exchange the springs. So that could still be an option.

Thanks again!