Driveshaft Upgrading!

[Mil T]

Please note that I am not criticizing any thing here. I only speak from experience of having drive shafts built for various vehicles. some with over 36" of travel and some with a lot less to include the Raptor.

With ALL the Raptors that are modified on this forum, there should not be a problem with the OEM shaft in length. There are all sorts of combinations of shocks, springs and adjusted heights with very little reports of oem shafts having issues. Mine lasted 2 years of much abuse off-road with 3+ springs, 3.0 shocks etc. and I only had to replace it because I hit a rock and tweaked it pretty good.
There is a difference in what shafts are made out of and how they are built, such as for screws the shafts should be aluminum because of the length the shaft has to be. Any upgrade in material is a plus. Thickness and material grade are two important ones. The scabs can use a steel shaft because it is shorter. If you are concerned about droop or travel or whatever in that area then have a double cardoon shaft made. No problems with how it articulates because of the way the shaft is made. It's the U-joints that need to be HD also but not to HD. (see last 3 sentences of this post)
The most important thing to do if you are having a new shaft made and you have made any modifications is to make the correct measurements from the correct method. IE. measure from the rubber seal where the slip yoke exits the TC back to the flat surface of the drive shaft flange where the shaft yoke is bolted to connected to the pinion yoke. Do this when the truck is level.
Also, I question the balance of the new shaft at 4000RPM. Mine have all been balanced at 15,000 RPM. Your just spending unnecessary money when buying things like 3000 HP parts for the shaft. You DO want something to break at some point in the system that will not cost an arm and a leg to repair like the rear diff or the transfer case or axles etc. That is why the shaft is a weak point in the first place. Easy to get a new one and you can run without it in emergency.
Mil T

 

[Boris]

First and foremost I'm diffidently not any sort of expert to commit on this subject.

But....these are the facts

Axle exchange ,MTF,and I have the same truck (super cab)



My truck has after market springs and mid perch adjustment.

axle exchanges drive shaft DID NOT fit my truck correctly as it did in their truck



So doing these mods clearly changes things. PERIOD



Here’s my 2 cents ....why I feel its a must upgrade



I put a Supercharger on my truck, she has A LOT more power then a stock raptor

Guys have destroyed stock drive shafts

I've personally seen a friend put a failed drive shaft THROUGH his truck (Not a Raptor)

Yes.... he drove home in front wheel drive...but he was shaking like a school girl from that experience....just think if he was taken out by a piece of metal

I personally had a fail drive shaft on
my old bronco ....It did a reverse wheelie and almost flipped over

Yes a ******* puckering moment....!

I also had a 2010 raptor before my 2013, I had that Drive Shaft CLUNK issue

Some thing wasn't machined correctly to spec, or it was binding up in the yoke / spline joint

There are videos showing this



A crome-molly yoke will act as a lubricant (Its a slicker metal)

(check out the jeep forums) guys with those trucks had major issues with their drive shafts and the crome molly yoke corrected the Clunking

I guess it all comes down to what your comfortable to do with your truck. Other forum members make some valid points. There's always pros and cons to every mod. I think the pros out weighs the cons when it comes to this drive shaft.

---------- Post added at 09:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:00 AM ----------

Hey Mil T
I'm not trying to be a wise guy...but if your looking

I have a stock drive shaft foresale
make me a offer
cheers

 

[MTF]

I welcome any and all input, this is why forums are great place to learn things.
The driveshaft really hasn't been discussed on the forum to the full extent.

Other than Ford has said the driveshaft can become unstable at high speeds and fly off and/or will chew up the bushing in the tail piece destroying transmission.
There are many posts about ripping the driveshaft out.
And not to mention blowing up the universal joints, and tearing off the rear of the drive shaft, plenty of video stuff showing that.

We also know the Raptor R that ran the Baja 1000 could not keep a driveshaft in and they even tried the carbon fiber one,
that didn't last long at all. I believe the article said less that a half a day, and it's way too much money.

About this rpm balancing to 15,000, I would like to know more about that.
I will do my own research on that, but I would appreciate any info.
I can't imagine our Raptors spinning the driveshaft faster than 4000 rpm, but I'm not the expert.
I would have to find the formula for figuring out the transmission gear ratio at a given gear (1 through 4 and 5 and 6 overdrive gears)
and gears in the rear ratio and the size of tires to get an answer.

Axle's Driveshaft does come with upgraded universal joints, and there are more options.
Mark did tell me about them but I cannot remember the details, and of course he will build anything you want.
There are several options on the yoke and universal joints, it's all about what you want.

If you need more information just give Mark a call, really nice guy!!!

 

[Mil T]

First and foremost I'm diffidently not any sort of expert to commit on this subject.

But....these are the facts

Axle exchange ,MTF,and I have the same truck (super cab)



My truck has after market springs and mid perch adjustment.

axle exchanges drive shaft DID NOT fit my truck correctly as it did in their truck



So doing these mods clearly changes things. PERIOD



Here’s my 2 cents ....why I feel its a must upgrade



I put a Supercharger on my truck, she has A LOT more power then a stock raptor

Guys have destroyed stock drive shafts

I've personally seen a friend put a failed drive shaft THROUGH his truck (Not a Raptor)

Yes.... he drove home in front wheel drive...but he was shaking like a school girl from that experience....just think if he was taken out by a piece of metal

I personally had a fail drive shaft on
my old bronco ....It did a reverse wheelie and almost flipped over

Yes a ******* puckering moment....!

I also had a 2010 raptor before my 2013, I had that Drive Shaft CLUNK issue

Some thing wasn't machined correctly to spec, or it was binding up in the yoke / spline joint

There are videos showing this



A crome-molly yoke will act as a lubricant (Its a slicker metal)

(check out the jeep forums) guys with those trucks had major issues with their drive shafts and the crome molly yoke corrected the Clunking

I guess it all comes down to what your comfortable to do with your truck. Other forum members make some valid points. There's always pros and cons to every mod. I think the pros out weighs the cons when it comes to this drive shaft.

---------- Post added at 09:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:00 AM ----------

Hey Mil T
I'm not trying to be a wise guy...but if your looking

I have a stock drive shaft foresale
make me a offer
cheers

You might want to put that on garage sale.
I already have upgraded drive shaft along with a thread on it as well that I wrote a couple of months ago with a good source for anyone that needs to get a new one. I do agree that if your running big power the better shaft is necessary. I think that's what I was trying to say. I think we are both on the same page here.
Mil T

 

[SVT_4X4]

I think most of the driveshaft issues have been related to axle wrap. Not saying all, but more than other issues.

 

[MTF]

Oh yah, without a doubt usually you tear out the universals or rip off the back of the driveshaft.
We are just pointing out that if you're going +3 with rear springs you should take measurements when upgrading the driveshaft it's very simple.
If your SC and will be doing 135 to 145 mph from time to time, wouldn't you want your driveshaft to the correct length no matter how small of a difference.

 

[Mil T]

I agree. That's why I posted the correct way of measuring for new shaft in my 1st post.
I like to try and use my head a little, not that it helps, in building off road vehicles I use. I like to build in or keep a factory weak point in the various components that will not leave me completely stranded in no where land. Like an axle ujoint that will break before an axle or hub or diff component that could leave me without a way out. At least a ujoint can be repaired usually and is small part to carry. Opps, I digressed to rock crawling.
I'm usually by myself so I need to be able to bubble gum and wire my vehicle out of the situation usually. I carry a lot of take off and other parts with me all the time.
Just an old habit of many years at this sport I guess.
Mil T

 

[khcdave]

We use axle exchance for all our shafts- great guys to work with.

one other thing to consider with aftermarket springs is the placement of the the center pins. They are usually moved slight depending on the type of spring for spring cycling purposes- not all are the same. Deavers are and example of this- my shaft is 1 inch to short at ride hieght. Most times fords have there rear axles pushed forward slightly but you would never notice. The yoke/spline in these trucks are very sensative- a little to short and the yoke doesnt right in the bushing in the transfercase completely.

 

[MTF]

Took some time for Deavers to make my Custom rear springs. Loving them so far!!!

Springs and Driveshaft are in!!! Big thanks to KHC for there service!!!

A minor hiccup has happened with the length of the driveshaft,
I had them make mine a while back and now that I switched to Deavers from Nationals,
at the same time lowering my truck and 3/4 of an inch (rear fender flare to ground),
my new upgraded Axle Exchange driveshaft is about 3/8 to a 1/2 inch too long now.
No big deal, they can cut, re-weld and balance while I'm waiting

First picture is just installed with suspension hanging while on the lift.


This is after a 100 mile drive home and the truck is sitting on the ground.

 

[10JGCSRT8]

this place is around the corner from me! may have to give them a call because i've noticed the clunking in my brand new truck with 3500 miles on it would one of these driveshafts solve the clunking issue on my basically stock truck?