Doug's cutout to upfitter switch

[R@pt0r]

Parts are on the way. I wanted an exhaust cutout and I wanted it wired to an upfitter switch.

I ordered a Doug's 3" cutout. $236
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-dec300a-1/overview/

Y pipe, $55
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-h1133/overview/

TR7-Pro Trigger Module $35
Newegg.com - Pac Tr7-Pro Universal Trigger Module

I'll post a write up on wiring the trigger module. I want to have the cutout open when the switch is flipped on and closed when the switch is off. I also want the cutout to close when the ignition is turned off and open again if the switch is left on and the ignition is turned on. We'll see how it turns out.

 

[svtchris1021]

make sure you weld that Y pipe bro, i learned the hard way and lost my cutout in someplace in the desert

 

[Goofball]

Sounds complicated. I wired mine up and just have the switch in the glove box. Works pretty good thus far.

 

[Mad Max]

Not sure about the longevity of electrical cutouts...a lot of people eventually start having problems. I think you're asking a lot of it, if you want it to potentially open/close at the beginning and end of every drive cycle. Maybe some folks that haven't had issues can provide their feedback.

 

[Sy0296]

waiting to see how it turns out. i'm wanting to do something similar as well. GL!

 

[Bilwil]

My Doug's cutout worked for about 2 months and then stopped working. I sent it to them for a rebuild. I worked about 8 times after it got back and then stopped working again. I have heard this from a few people. I liked having the control but it just wasnt reliable. In the end I realized I ran it open all the time. The only reason I used the switch was to show people how it worked.

Now I run without the rear exhaust and it sounds great. Not too loud and definitely better than how it sounds stock. I can still hear my hands free phone just fine and people on calls do not complain about vehicle noise so it must not be bad on their end either.

Thanks!

Bill

 

[R@pt0r]

Just a quick update. I have the cutout installed and I'm working on the wiring for the up fitter switch. Looks like I still need a few relays to make it work. The actual cutout install was easy and it sounds great when open.

 

[R@pt0r]

Hours of wiring and three relays later it works. One major problem is that the TR7 module isn't reliable. Sometimes it will hang or freeze up and I have to unplug it to reset the device. When it does this the cutout will hang trying to open or close. This will burn the motor up in a hurry. Currently everything is wired to a constant 12v, maybe wiring it to an accessory 12v will fix the problem by resetting the TR7 at every startup. Plus it will keep the cutout from closing when the ignition is switched off, which it does now. I'll keep at it and post a wiring diagram when I get a reliable solution.

20140601 201709 - YouTube

 

[R@pt0r]

I tried multiple times to make the TR7 module reliable with no luck. It will work for a while, but then it will start trying to close the already closed cutout. I don't know if the TR7 is heat sensitive, but it would work for a while then randomly start acting up. Two weeks, cutout fried. I've ditched the TR7 idea and installed the rocker switch that came with the cutout in the console. Hopefully I can get a replacement motor for the cutout. I'll leave the upfitter switch for something else.

 

[robnfl]

I tried multiple times to make the TR7 module reliable with no luck. It will work for a while, but then it will start trying to close the already closed cutout. I don't know if the TR7 is heat sensitive, but it would work for a while then randomly start acting up. Two weeks, cutout fried. I've ditched the TR7 idea and installed the rocker switch that came with the cutout in the console. Hopefully I can get a replacement motor for the cutout. I'll leave the upfitter switch for something else.

Why didn't you just wire the cutout straight to the upfitter switch?