DIY - Stock Raptor 2.5 Shock Rebuild.

[ntm]

As Sea pointed out on Post 12, we are still dealing with the same amount of fluid volume.

When we built the shocks we set them as we took them apart. The front internal floating piston is easiest set if you set to the snap ring. Then set the piston rod to MAX extension.

Front build is missing a lot of pics which I forgot to take as we did the work DOH!!! I will get those next rebuilds and you can see how things were set.

If you simply set to the snap ring, your ifp will be bottoming on it every time the shock hits full extension. It also gives you no wiggle room when bleeding.
A rule of thumb is to set the ifp to about 20% of total reservoir travel.
Then add 5-10 psi of nitrogen pressure (while observing to make sure it doesn't move), fill oil, install seal head with shaft at full extension, open bleeds and cycle the shaft a bit ( ), close bleeds, and fill up the nitrogen charge.
Almost impossible to bleed a shock properly if the ifp is bottomed out to begin with.
The end result is a shock that has a little air in it still and a bottomed ifp.
On full extension, the ifp bottoms on the snap ring and can no longer supply pressure.

 

[m3dragon]

One of the steps is to charge the NO2 side with a little presure.

How about this, can you tell me step number and a sub note you would recommend people to follow.

 

[ntm]

One of the steps is to charge the NO2 side with a little presure.

How about this, can you tell me step number and a sub note you would recommend people to follow. This was the info is inline with the steps and everyone has the note. I think we are saying the same thing just explaining different LOL.

Perhaps !
Just trying to make it clear that the ifp must be set back, if it's at the end of its travel, it is impossible to bleed the shock properly.

 

[Quartz]

Can you do mine

 

[m3dragon]

Perhaps !
Just trying to make it clear that the ifp must be set back, if it's at the end of its travel, it is impossible to bleed the shock properly.

Correct

---------- Post added at 01:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:05 PM ----------

Can you do mine

Possibly, can send PM and we can see if we can help.

 

[seapong]

Perhaps !

Just trying to make it clear that the ifp must be set back, if it's at the end of its travel, it is impossible to bleed the shock properly.

Yep! Thanks @ntm for stressing this important point. As I stated in the bottom step 2 in post 16. The dividing piston or the internal floating piston (IFP) must not already be in the bottom position. You must make sure the area below the IFP is fluid (not air) use it as a syringe to bleed the air. Out the other side.


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[seapong]

Regarding the bleeding process @ntm... Correct me if I am wrong...

Definition of bleeding is: reducing the volume of the fluid containing space such that all air is excreted out via bleeder ports. I see two ways of achieving this:

1. Reducing volume by starting the IFP in the non-maxed-out position and leaving room to push the piston (by hand or by air) to force air out bleeder ports once shock is assembled.
2. Reducing volume by pushing shock shaft inward. As shaft insertion occurs, the shaft volume will displace the fluid, effectively reducing the volume.

In our rebuild process, we picked Method 1 for the rear shocks and Method 2 for the Fronts.

 

[ntm]

Method 1 is correct.
Method 2 is incorrect in that you will end up with too low of a oil volume in the shock. With the ifp already out of travel, and inserting the shaft any amount while bleeding, you have no oil volume left to fill the void left by the shock shaft at full extension. The shock will cavitate at full extension.

 

[Yukon Joe]

This has been a needed write up for a long time. Thank you for taking the time to document the re-builds and doing the write up. Much appreciated.

 

[seapong]

Method 1 is correct.

Method 2 is incorrect in that you will end up with too low of a oil volume in the shock. With the ifp already out of travel, and inserting the shaft any amount while bleeding, you have no oil volume left to fill the void left by the shock shaft at full extension. The shock will cavitate at full extension.

Ok understood. In the write up, we filled the front shocks with slightly more fluid. As we tightened the shaft assembly we left the bleeder ports loose and finished the bleeding process. Pushed in the shaft a short amount and no more bubbles came out. I think method 2 is acceptable but definitely not preferred.
@m3dragon can we update the bleed process to as described in method 1 in post above


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