DIY - Stock Raptor 2.5 Shock Rebuild.

[ntm]

Ok understood. In the write up, we filled the front shocks with slightly more fluid. As we tightened the shaft assembly we left the bleeder ports loose and finished the bleeding process. Pushed in the shaft a short amount and no more bubbles came out. I think method 2 is acceptable but definitely not preferred.
@m3dragon can we update the bleed process to as described in method 1 in post above


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Method 2 will work given that you have the ifp set back enough, and don't push the shaft in much when you're bleeding it.
If the ifp was bottomed out on the snap ring and then you cycled the shaft while bleeding, that shock is 100% certainly low on oil volume now. Also the ifp will be smacking the snap ring every time the shock goes to full extension.
The ifp should never actually travel all the way to one end or the other of the reservoir. Hence the "floating" in the internal floating piston designation.

 

[cups]

@ntm thanks for your input. I think this is making it a great FRF Community project. I especially like the fact that we are getting the process right, mine are next on the block! ; )

 

[Darb]

If you simply set to the snap ring, your ifp will be bottoming on it every time the shock hits full extension. It also gives you no wiggle room when bleeding.
A rule of thumb is to set the ifp to about 20% of total reservoir travel.
Then add 5-10 psi of nitrogen pressure (while observing to make sure it doesn't move), fill oil, install seal head with shaft at full extension, open bleeds and cycle the shaft a bit ( ), close bleeds, and fill up the nitrogen charge.
Almost impossible to bleed a shock properly if the ifp is bottomed out to begin with.
The end result is a shock that has a little air in it still and a bottomed ifp.
On full extension, the ifp bottoms on the snap ring and can no longer supply pressure.

For the front shocks:
When you say to set the ifp to about 20% of total reservoir travel, what side do you want the 20% on? Side with the snap ring?
I'm doing my fronts this weekend. Got some steering wheel shimmy.

 

[cups]

@Darb where are you?

 

[Darb]

@Darb where are you?

Alberta, Canada

 

[cups]

Oh. Nevermind. Always looking for new talent to assimilate into our collective.

 

[m3dragon]

below snap ring. Need to leave bleeder valve in to push it down a little. Not that much just enough for extra fluid to bleed out.

I will update images this weekend as we are rebuilding a few more so I can get the missing docs.

 

[ntm]

For the front shocks:
When you say to set the ifp to about 20% of total reservoir travel, what side do you want the 20% on? Side with the snap ring?
I'm doing my fronts this weekend. Got some steering wheel shimmy.

Yup, side with the snap ring. That leaves 80% of resevoir volume for shaft displacement, with no "topping out" of the ifp when the shaft is fully extended on droop, and gives a little room for fluid loss from bleeding and/or weeping.

You never, ever want to close a shock up with the ifp up against the snap ring.
The ifp will be pounding on the snap ring every time the shock goes to full droop.
And in the event of fluid loss from the bleed process or weeping seals, the resevoir can no longer supply pressure to the shock and it'll pull a vacuum/boil the oil on the rebound side at full extension.

 

[Hole Shot]

Great write up


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[Yukon Joe]

Great write up


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I see a shock rebuild in your future!

Yukon Joe