DIY stereo upgrade for under $500.00

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Guy

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That’s one way to do it or you can use a DSR1, utilize the factory harness, remove the stock amp and take advantage of the Fosgate DSP that’s also built in.

With the current updated firmware it absolutely works flawlessly, including proper alerts and door chimes.

the PAC setup is Clumsy in my opinion.



There are other options that I would recommend over the C2s that will work awesome with stock power or amplified. To truly get good sound you should bypass the Sony system entirely using a PAC unit and amplify the speakers. Send me a PM if interested.
 

dhmcfadin

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I first wanted to maybe buy some decent speakers to upgrade my 2017 802A Sony. But after looking @ reviews on Crutchfield, I spent a few extra $$ on speakers to cover the front and rears:

- Front: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2690X/JL-Audio-C2-690tx.html
- Rear: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2650X/JL-Audio-C2-650X.html

I haven't even received the speakers in the mail yet and I am already looking at The JL Stealthbox and an amp. Wanted to keep it under $500 but here we go...

Wrong speakers. You need components for the front not coax or three way. Your truck has tweeters in the a-pillar and midbass in the door.
 
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that’s what I would have done differently in the DIY. I’m not sure how it would work out with the factory tuning and amp but it would certainly make for a better stage.


Wrong speakers. You need components for the front not coax or three way. Your truck has tweeters in the a-pillar and midbass in the door.
 

smurfslayer

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That’s one way to do it or you can use a DSR1, utilize the factory harness, remove the stock amp and take advantage of the Fosgate DSP that’s also built in.

With the current updated firmware it absolutely works flawlessly, including proper alerts and door chimes.

the PAC setup is Clumsy in my opinion.

Eh... DSR1 works about 99% of the time for me, with a few notable exceptions.
Periodically, and I have not been able to narrow down how or why, DSR1 turns my subwoofer output down to zero. I have to connect through perfect tune and reenable it.

2nd: Once in a while it gets confused about what volume it should be at. I think this happens when the radio is playing, door(s) open and you start the vehicle or some kind of combination of this - it then goes to super high volume for a split second on the radio and chimes and settles back down. This can be a little startling.

3rd: Perfect tune app requires reconnecting twice before working - you connect and regardless of whether bluetooth hooks with the DSR or not, you get disconnected and have to do it again

I had a channel go south on me for one start up, it started sending a hissing static sound to the front left speaker. Went away after the next start up - thank goodness.

My biggest complaint with DSR1 is the bifurcated tech support. You have 2 companies allegedly supporting it, with a support model of :
1) reflash the firmware in this order.
2) did you reflash the firmware? You did? do it again.
3) reflash the firmware and this time do it in the proper order, like we told you in step1.
4) No, that’s not the right order, reflash the firmware in this order ( it’s the same as before)

Basically, both companies are no better than GoPro, and that takes some serious effort to get support that poor.

You are pretty much on your own if something with the DSR1 goes out or doesn’t work right.
 

dhmcfadin

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Eh... DSR1 works about 99% of the time for me, with a few notable exceptions.
Periodically, and I have not been able to narrow down how or why, DSR1 turns my subwoofer output down to zero. I have to connect through perfect tune and reenable it.

2nd: Once in a while it gets confused about what volume it should be at. I think this happens when the radio is playing, door(s) open and you start the vehicle or some kind of combination of this - it then goes to super high volume for a split second on the radio and chimes and settles back down. This can be a little startling.

3rd: Perfect tune app requires reconnecting twice before working - you connect and regardless of whether bluetooth hooks with the DSR or not, you get disconnected and have to do it again

I had a channel go south on me for one start up, it started sending a hissing static sound to the front left speaker. Went away after the next start up - thank goodness.

My biggest complaint with DSR1 is the bifurcated tech support. You have 2 companies allegedly supporting it, with a support model of :
1) reflash the firmware in this order.
2) did you reflash the firmware? You did? do it again.
3) reflash the firmware and this time do it in the proper order, like we told you in step1.
4) No, that’s not the right order, reflash the firmware in this order ( it’s the same as before)

Basically, both companies are no better than GoPro, and that takes some serious effort to get support that poor.

You are pretty much on your own if something with the DSR1 goes out or doesn’t work right.
Yup. Pac at least answers the phone and is helpful.
 
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because I tried it about 8 months ago to see if it would produce a cleaner signal. I find I got some clipping introduced before it should and I couldn’t blame it on my amps.

I since rectified it.

anyway the PAC
I found it to be very clumsy.

That’s my opinion and I’ll stick with it. I’m sure it works well for a lot of folks and they can go that way if they like.




 

lawdog

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Wrong speakers. You need components for the front not coax or three way. Your truck has tweeters in the a-pillar and midbass in the door.

Yes...I replied before I clicked the link and assumed those were components. I put new tweeters in and 3ways in the kick panels when I did just a speaker upgrade.

If I had it to do over, I’d have done components for sure. (Where was Dom when I needed him...lol) Mine isn’t terrible/is still better than stock, as I usually listen to it on surround, but it definitely affects the soundstage.

If I were doing speakers only, I’d do something like the JBL or infinity 3ohm components for the front. There are certainly better speakers, but I’m not sure you get much more out of them with the stock HU/amp.

Good luck.
 

smurfslayer

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Let me just make a quick amendment to my DSR1 commentary above.

I would still purchase it, knowing what I know now. I’m not keen on their tech support model, but consumer product tech support isn’t the easiest.

I dread having to muck about with it because aside from being quirky about 1/2 of 1% of the time, it works find and does what it says it will do.
 

K223

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Can one of you fellas tell me what wires I can tap of off the factory harness in back to power up my Audio Control LC2i and JL Audio amp? I think the amp is auto sensing, but the the audio control.

So remote turn on and 12v switched power would be needed.

Is there a FAQ or sticky to reference? I was going to start probing but figured I would ask the people who know.

Thanks
 
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