But you can’t forscan b&o and non amplified trucks have no roll off, attenuation, or eq on the front left and right channels.
DIY stereo upgrade for under $500.00
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But you can’t forscan b&o and non amplified trucks have no roll off, attenuation, or eq on the front left and right channels.
Funny. I ended up doing something very similar. Made a plastic strap by cutting something up, formed it with a heat gun and screwed it on.Dont over think it. Something simple like this is all that is needed. I used stiff cardboard and hot glue.
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Clarification? Are you saying changing that value won’t have any effect on the B&O’s factory sub? I mean even if it did, it’s minuscule.
It will not. Those settings only effect Sony amplified systems.
WAYTALL
Member
Thanks for this amazing thread guys. I haven’t read any info on 2020, so maybe I’m the first ginea pig.
I just took delivery of a 2020 screw with 800A package / base stereo system. It does have the 8” display/radio but not navigation or anything like that.
What are my options for upgrading ? This isn’t a BO system , so is it Sony? Assume I’d like to do a sub , keep under 1k for upgrade.
I just took delivery of a 2020 screw with 800A package / base stereo system. It does have the 8” display/radio but not navigation or anything like that.
What are my options for upgrading ? This isn’t a BO system , so is it Sony? Assume I’d like to do a sub , keep under 1k for upgrade.
The 2019-2020 have a different harness on the rear of the headunit. Pre 2019, you could get the for-11ck harness. With yours, you will need the 2019 harness from Plug and Play Kits. You’ll want the amp harness only. Then get a dedicated amp. Do not buy the amp that they offer with the harness. It’s not a significant upgrade in output or performance from the factory headunit output.
Thank you for the information. That’s good to finally know.
prowakeskater
Full Access Member
What this about? I have FORScan, 17 Sony, and installed all new speakers and sub and Sony amp... should I change any setting?
I will bite...
Your audio signal starts at the source.....goes into what ever DAc (digital audio converter) you head unit has. Where it is converted (#1) to a low voltage signal. It is then sent the system amp and amplified (#2) to a high voltage siganl for your speakers.
at this point the sound has been manipulated 2 times and here is where the quality of your source matters. Cheap DAC's sound like ass, and what ever factory amp you have will make any bad qualities stand out like a sore thumb. Because we all know factory amps are not very good quality.
Now...lets say you want to add an aftermarket amp. and dont want to spend the money to do it right ...So you convert (#3) high voltage speaker level back down to low level RCAs. Send it to your amp, where it is then amplified (#4) again back up to high voltage speaker level.
So in this string....you now have 4 interaction points where you are manipulating your sound before it gets to your ears. 2 extra steps then just a basic DAC to amp set up.
Ever copy and analog tape off another analog tape. the signal degradation compounds with each generation.
Now...you may think you are ahead of me by adding an Audio Control Device that corrects (#5) any of the issues I have detailed above. But those things just compound the problem and what you get in final sound is NOT what was recorded.
There is my rant. I am 50 years old and have been an audio nerd since I was 16 when i got my first job as a car audio installer. 34 years of experience in audio theory and evolution of electronics hold me to my opinion.
High level speaker level inputs are bad and should be avoided at all costs.
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