DIY stereo upgrade for under $500.00

[dhmcfadin]

I know I need different screws to mount the speakers to the adapters but do you use the factory screws to mount the adapter to the doors?

Yes, factory screws to mount the adapter to the door.

 

[Raptor Vet]

So I got the component part for front speakers.. And the sub woofer needs/can use a one channel amp. If 5 channel amp is used then Zen is needed. If 5 ch amp used do the speakers have to be rewired? I realize wiring harnesses are available. I think I am still not understanding the "crossover." Will the JL stealth subwoofer fit behind the seat of a SUPERCAB since it is only 6 inches. I think pioneer makes a slimline that is only 5 inches for under $200...ie could get 2 for the price of JL Audio. I have the 2018 B&O(crap). Thanks in advance for your patients and time on this thread.

 

[Raptor Vet]

It's probably pretty obvious that I am NOT going to be able to "DIY" but I still might try. I have been to three local shops and 2 out of three had not heard about the B&O issue. One tried to sell the PAC interface which i understand will not work. Have one more shop to try.

 

[dhmcfadin]

So I got the component part for front speakers.. And the sub woofer needs/can use a one channel amp. If 5 channel amp is used then Zen is needed. If 5 ch amp used do the speakers have to be rewired? I realize wiring harnesses are available. I think I am still not understanding the "crossover." Will the JL stealth subwoofer fit behind the seat of a SUPERCAB since it is only 6 inches. I think pioneer makes a slimline that is only 5 inches for under $200...ie could get 2 for the price of JL Audio. I have the 2018 B&O(crap). Thanks in advance for your patients and time on this thread.

It's probably pretty obvious that I am NOT going to be able to "DIY" but I still might try. I have been to three local shops and 2 out of three had not heard about the B&O issue. One tried to sell the PAC interface which i understand will not work. Have one more shop to try.

What’s the b&o issue?

With b&o, if you want to replace the speakers, you need to go the full replacement route. Replace the b&o amp/dsp with the NavTV Zen a2b. The Zen is an integration module that interprets the digital a2b signal from your headunit so you can incorporate aftermarket amplifiers. The signal output from the Zen is a full frequency signal for your new amplifiers.

Crossovers: Think about the main breaker box in your house. Electricity comes from the main utility line into your home. From your main breaker box, electricity is distributed to the various outlets/fixtures/appliances etc. The same exact electricity from the main utility line is being used to power all of those different components. The only change that occurs between different appliances is the voltage output. The electrical outlet behind your fridge is 120 volts but the outlet behind you washing machine is 240. Both use the same power source from the street, just different voltages as determined by the breaker box. The breaker box is your crossover. The fridge is your tweeter. The washing machine is your midbass. All a crossover does is take a full frequency signal 20hz-20,000hz and cut it into pieces that each specific speaker can play. A tweeter can generally play 4000hz - 20,000hz. A midbass can generally play from 80hz- 4000hz. The crossover is designed to provide only specific frequency ranges to each individual speaker based on the frequency range each speaker is designed to play.

Wiring: When you replace the b&o amp/dsp with an integration module, you are also provided a speaker harness. This harness plugs into your factory speaker harness and allows you to splice the signal coming out of your new amplifiers into the existing factory speaker harness. This is the same concept for trucks with the Sony system. The only special item you have to address in trucks with b&o is the tweeter channels. In b&o trucks, the tweeter channels are powered by the headunit. Because of this, you must run new tweeter channels from your new crossover to your new tweeters. The existing tweeter channels from behind your headunit will no longer be utilized and will be left disconnected.

The signal chain would be as follows:

1. Zen A2B
2. Amp
3. Speaker output from amp into crossovers provided with component speakers
4. Output from crossovers to factory speaker harness EXCEPT tweeters. New tweeter channels are run from the crossover to each a-pillar. This run is EXTREMELY EASY!

Subwoofer: I cannot speak to the pioneer or JL enclosures being able to fit as I don’t have a supercab.

 

[dhmcfadin]

What’s the b&o issue?

With b&o, if you want to replace the speakers, you need to go the full replacement route. Replace the b&o amp/dsp with the NavTV Zen a2b. The Zen is an integration module that interprets the digital a2b signal from your headunit so you can incorporate aftermarket amplifiers. The signal output from the Zen is a full frequency signal for your new amplifiers.

Crossovers: Think about the main breaker box in your house. Electricity comes from the main utility line into your home. From your main breaker box, electricity is distributed to the various outlets/fixtures/appliances etc. The same exact electricity from the main utility line is being used to power all of those different components. The only change that occurs between different appliances is the voltage output. The electrical outlet behind your fridge is 120 volts but the outlet behind you washing machine is 240. Both use the same power source from the street, just different voltages as determined by the breaker box. The breaker box is your crossover. The fridge is your tweeter. The washing machine is your midbass. All a crossover does is take a full frequency signal 20hz-20,000hz and cut it into pieces that each specific speaker can play. A tweeter can generally play 4000hz - 20,000hz. A midbass can generally play from 80hz- 4000hz. The crossover is designed to provide only specific frequency ranges to each individual speaker based on the frequency range each speaker is designed to play.

Wiring: When you replace the b&o amp/dsp with an integration module, you are also provided a speaker harness. This harness plugs into your factory speaker harness and allows you to splice the signal coming out of your new amplifiers into the existing factory speaker harness. This is the same concept for trucks with the Sony system. The only special item you have to address in trucks with b&o is the tweeter channels. In b&o trucks, the tweeter channels are powered by the headunit. Because of this, you must run new tweeter channels from your new crossover to your new tweeters. The signal chain would be as follows:

1. Zen A2B
2. Amp
3. Speaker output from amp into crossovers provided with component speakers
4. Output from crossovers to factory speaker harness EXCEPT tweeters. New tweeter channels are run from the crossover to each a-pillar. This run is EXTREMELY EASY!

Subwoofer: I cannot speak to the pioneer or JL enclosures being able to fit as I don’t have a supercab.

Lastly, the NavTV ZEN a2b is 100% plug and play. No wiring behind the dash is needed.

 

[Raptor Vet]

Thank you. I understand better. So my "B&O issue" maybe unfair to pin on B & O. Maybe it's more the Fomoc speakers. As Lawdog points out a number of times, no power to the rear speakers bothers me the most, but the quality of sound maybe is more speaker related.... Thanks again for your patient ,time explanations. Love my truck. Hate the stereo sound.

 

[TK85]

How in the hell did everybody get the panel off that is under the door handle. I’ve seen a few videos but that made it look to easy. Mine is tight as shit clipped in there

 

[dhmcfadin]

How in the hell did everybody get the panel off that is under the door handle. I’ve seen a few videos but that made it look to easy. Mine is tight as shit clipped in there

Good set of plastic panel tools. Pops right out if you pry from the upper right or left corner.

 

[TK85]

Good set of plastic panel tools. Pops right out if you pry from the upper right or left corner.

That’s what I was using. Corner was barely coming out not enough to get another tool in there to finish it

 

[dhmcfadin]

That’s what I was using. Corner was barely coming out not enough to get another tool in there to finish it

Shouldn’t take two tools. Just one.