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I was under the impression removing the stock amp at all screws everything up, but i'm no expert and curious for the answer to this as well and if so why.
DIY stereo upgrade for under $500.00
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Ok so I got everything in (all the JBL stuff) minus the passenger side tweeter due to also installing a dash cam and it setting me back a bit waiting for a part.
Thoughts: the JBL speakers are AWESOME. I've had some high end stuff in other cars, and for the price, these are absolutely fantastic. I wonder what the stock amp (2018 B&O) is putting out, because they seem a lot clearer then I thought they would, but they also have a very high sensitivity.
Overall i'd put this, now, somewhere between the H&K system in my 2015 435i and dedicated $2500+ sound systems I've done in other cars (back in the day mind you)
I also dynamatted the inner and outer door shells. I attempted MLV but after doing one door, it just didn't seem worth it to me.
I ran into a bunch of issues (minor) along the way. I took a bunch of pictures, i'll probably put together a thread on it when I have the time.
Also, to touch on what some people were concerned about: the center speaker sounds great. That being said, it was overwhelmingly harsh initially, but I read about the latest version of SYNC 3 changing the audio staging, so I upgraded and it's night and day. I have all the EQ settings at neutral and it sounds excellent. Without having upgraded SYNC though, I would have had to eat my purchase and disconnect the center channel.
Next up, sub and amp. Any suggestions ?
Thoughts: the JBL speakers are AWESOME. I've had some high end stuff in other cars, and for the price, these are absolutely fantastic. I wonder what the stock amp (2018 B&O) is putting out, because they seem a lot clearer then I thought they would, but they also have a very high sensitivity.
Overall i'd put this, now, somewhere between the H&K system in my 2015 435i and dedicated $2500+ sound systems I've done in other cars (back in the day mind you)
I also dynamatted the inner and outer door shells. I attempted MLV but after doing one door, it just didn't seem worth it to me.
I ran into a bunch of issues (minor) along the way. I took a bunch of pictures, i'll probably put together a thread on it when I have the time.
Also, to touch on what some people were concerned about: the center speaker sounds great. That being said, it was overwhelmingly harsh initially, but I read about the latest version of SYNC 3 changing the audio staging, so I upgraded and it's night and day. I have all the EQ settings at neutral and it sounds excellent. Without having upgraded SYNC though, I would have had to eat my purchase and disconnect the center channel.
Next up, sub and amp. Any suggestions ?
smurfslayer
Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77
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dynamat the sub enclosure.
a question 4 you: if you fully dynamat’d the doors, did you confirm latch function? if not, do so.
a question 4 you: if you fully dynamat’d the doors, did you confirm latch function? if not, do so.
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All door functions are working across the board, thankfully. Had me worried there.
The sub and amp for said sub come next. I'd go in for $500-800 if anyone has any suggestions. Absolutely needs to fit behind the seat though. I keep the seats folded up at all times for the dog.
I've read alot about modding the stock enclosure, but it seems reviews on this are mixed. I also can't find anything that will truly fit behind the seat without issue in the aftermarket (box wise) may just pony up for the best sub within my budget and an amp to match in the stock box and dynmat that bad boy as per suggestions.
The sub and amp for said sub come next. I'd go in for $500-800 if anyone has any suggestions. Absolutely needs to fit behind the seat though. I keep the seats folded up at all times for the dog.
I've read alot about modding the stock enclosure, but it seems reviews on this are mixed. I also can't find anything that will truly fit behind the seat without issue in the aftermarket (box wise) may just pony up for the best sub within my budget and an amp to match in the stock box and dynmat that bad boy as per suggestions.
nikhsub1
FRF Addict
The stock incloser with the Pioneer that the OP listed sounds pretty damn good. I will admit, I did not dynomate the enclosure and I did not initially put any polyfill in the enclosure. I have since put some polyfill in the enclosure and it has indeed made the bass less boomy and more punchy. A single 10" that fit behind the seat would be ideal but that will be tough.
lawdog
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Ok so I got everything in (all the JBL stuff) minus the passenger side tweeter due to also installing a dash cam and it setting me back a bit waiting for a part.
Thoughts: the JBL speakers are AWESOME. I've had some high end stuff in other cars, and for the price, these are absolutely fantastic. I wonder what the stock amp (2018 B&O) is putting out, because they seem a lot clearer then I thought they would, but they also have a very high sensitivity.
Overall i'd put this, now, somewhere between the H&K system in my 2015 435i and dedicated $2500+ sound systems I've done in other cars (back in the day mind you)
I also dynamatted the inner and outer door shells. I attempted MLV but after doing one door, it just didn't seem worth it to me.
I ran into a bunch of issues (minor) along the way. I took a bunch of pictures, i'll probably put together a thread on it when I have the time.
Also, to touch on what some people were concerned about: the center speaker sounds great. That being said, it was overwhelmingly harsh initially, but I read about the latest version of SYNC 3 changing the audio staging, so I upgraded and it's night and day. I have all the EQ settings at neutral and it sounds excellent. Without having upgraded SYNC though, I would have had to eat my purchase and disconnect the center channel.
Next up, sub and amp. Any suggestions ?
Sounds good...congrats.
Did you do the 3-way 6x9 GTO939/930s or the components? I'm thinking about the 3ways and maybe doing the GTO629s in the rear, with Stadium GTO 750t tweeters up front. All in would be $230, or $160, if I decide to leave the rears alone. If you did the 3ways, how much mid/high are you getting from the footwell speakers? I can't get Ford/Harman to give an answer on their crossover settings.
I think it's been pretty well reported the stock amp is 25w. Those GTOs not only have high sensitivity, but also are rated at 2.5ohms...both mean they will play louder than the stock speakers, considerably, even with the stock amp, which is why I picked them, too.
Last edited:
Ok so I got everything in (all the JBL stuff) minus the passenger side tweeter due to also installing a dash cam and it setting me back a bit waiting for a part.
Thoughts: the JBL speakers are AWESOME. I've had some high end stuff in other cars, and for the price, these are absolutely fantastic. I wonder what the stock amp (2018 B&O) is putting out, because they seem a lot clearer then I thought they would, but they also have a very high sensitivity.
Overall i'd put this, now, somewhere between the H&K system in my 2015 435i and dedicated $2500+ sound systems I've done in other cars (back in the day mind you)
I also dynamatted the inner and outer door shells. I attempted MLV but after doing one door, it just didn't seem worth it to me.
I ran into a bunch of issues (minor) along the way. I took a bunch of pictures, i'll probably put together a thread on it when I have the time.
Also, to touch on what some people were concerned about: the center speaker sounds great. That being said, it was overwhelmingly harsh initially, but I read about the latest version of SYNC 3 changing the audio staging, so I upgraded and it's night and day. I have all the EQ settings at neutral and it sounds excellent. Without having upgraded SYNC though, I would have had to eat my purchase and disconnect the center channel.
Next up, sub and amp. Any suggestions ?
I'm thinking of making the same upgrade to my '18 B&O system. What "issues" did you run into? What else did you buy besides the speakers (adapters, mounting plates)?
Thanks.
Mountainkiter
Member
Upgrade stuff.
I have mostly completed my upgrades, and i have done them in steps so have had a chance to compare along the way. I have 2018 with B and O system which is pretty good, just wanted more punch. I have done quite a bit but My recommendations at this time would be either to wait for a good PAC system that is availalbe that makes adding amps easy, maybe less expensive for high quality upgrades, or doing something like is mentioned in this thread.
My recomendation is to leave the center channel alone. I tried a polk audio 3.5 and it is just too loud and bright up front. I upgraded to latest sync version and was able to listen to just the center speaker, during replacement of all the door speakers. It doesnt break up really even at full volume, sounds fine , and i directly compared to the other 3.5's and it is very comparable. and i think louder center speakers add too much up front. Also the B and O system is tuned for the current speakers. I believe there is crossover built into front and rear speakers and center speakers. I dont think there is a tweeter signal sent to the front door 6x9 as it is sent to the pillars. The current center channel is 8 ohm and doesnt have a tweeter, so adding tweeter there just required me to turn down my treble to be comfortable. I think the rear door speakers have High pass X over built in. So the problem with upgrades is you dont get to use all that you pay extra for i think.
The B and O sub box is ported, and i think it may have slightly different dimensions than the Sony one. After reading the thread I wanted a little more power for the sub so ordered this kenwood 500w amp . Problem is it is a little big to keep behind the rear seats so the smaller recommendation in this thread would certainly be easier. I mounted it in the cubby under the seat. Im running it with a kicker 8" dvc speaker at total 4 ohm 300w rms that fits easily into the current enclosure without any modifications. added polyfill and i sealed the port with the dynamat. It is definetely better than previous, but I am still looking for a bit more punch and will keep you updated on options.
I think that upgrading the front 6x9 is worth it but you wont get as much bass as capable since the signal is crossed over. The rear speakers in the stock B and O system arent that bad so if trying to save money i would upgrade them last.
I would look at the Pioneers listed in this thread, or polk audio or GTO which all also have High sensitivity so will be " louder" if that is needed.
Some of the things i have used if questions. Will try and post more thoughts/ experience when i have time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZNFT9P/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BLVEXH2/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIAHSM4/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
I have mostly completed my upgrades, and i have done them in steps so have had a chance to compare along the way. I have 2018 with B and O system which is pretty good, just wanted more punch. I have done quite a bit but My recommendations at this time would be either to wait for a good PAC system that is availalbe that makes adding amps easy, maybe less expensive for high quality upgrades, or doing something like is mentioned in this thread.
My recomendation is to leave the center channel alone. I tried a polk audio 3.5 and it is just too loud and bright up front. I upgraded to latest sync version and was able to listen to just the center speaker, during replacement of all the door speakers. It doesnt break up really even at full volume, sounds fine , and i directly compared to the other 3.5's and it is very comparable. and i think louder center speakers add too much up front. Also the B and O system is tuned for the current speakers. I believe there is crossover built into front and rear speakers and center speakers. I dont think there is a tweeter signal sent to the front door 6x9 as it is sent to the pillars. The current center channel is 8 ohm and doesnt have a tweeter, so adding tweeter there just required me to turn down my treble to be comfortable. I think the rear door speakers have High pass X over built in. So the problem with upgrades is you dont get to use all that you pay extra for i think.
The B and O sub box is ported, and i think it may have slightly different dimensions than the Sony one. After reading the thread I wanted a little more power for the sub so ordered this kenwood 500w amp . Problem is it is a little big to keep behind the rear seats so the smaller recommendation in this thread would certainly be easier. I mounted it in the cubby under the seat. Im running it with a kicker 8" dvc speaker at total 4 ohm 300w rms that fits easily into the current enclosure without any modifications. added polyfill and i sealed the port with the dynamat. It is definetely better than previous, but I am still looking for a bit more punch and will keep you updated on options.
I think that upgrading the front 6x9 is worth it but you wont get as much bass as capable since the signal is crossed over. The rear speakers in the stock B and O system arent that bad so if trying to save money i would upgrade them last.
I would look at the Pioneers listed in this thread, or polk audio or GTO which all also have High sensitivity so will be " louder" if that is needed.
Some of the things i have used if questions. Will try and post more thoughts/ experience when i have time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZNFT9P/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BLVEXH2/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIAHSM4/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
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Went with
JBL939 6.9
JBL 629 6.5
JBL 329 3.5
Also bought the above mentioned harnesses and adapter plates.
Issues, off the top of my head:
the MLV just not worth it at all and a huge pain to work with. At least on a vertical surface.
3.5" center channel did not fit at all without trimming the "ring" of the speaker completely off. It hit the B&O cover.
For some reason on my first rear door I derped (it was late and I was multi tasking) and was attempting to mount the metra plate the opposite way. For some reason instead of flipping it over, I immediately chalked it up to me being an idiot and having ordered the wrong part, and spent the rest of the daylight hours destroying the stock speakers to fab up a bracket for the JBL's.
I was operating under the assumption that the adapter harnesses would fit all speaker locations (they don't for the tweeters or center channel) minor thing.
There is no way to get the tweeters in without fabbing a custom bracket. I did a kind of cool thing with hot glue and plumber tape and foam. Scratched my head on it for a night until I figured it out.
My passenger front door was atrocious to get undone. Took me more time then the other three doors put together, doubled. Everything was super tight, BMW level panel tolerances - and I had to go and screw it all up
Minor issues overall. Also, still waiting to button up the passenger pillar but thats due to a dash cam hardwire.
I've only had the speakers in a couple of days, but my initial impressions with the 6x9's in the doors is no discernible highs at all. They thump considerably (you can feel them vibrate the door panel if your leg is close to the door) I'd definitely say they are low to mid only, with a low bias.
As far as the modded stock enclosure - I've been reading everything I could about it. Did everyone come to a consensus with the pioneer shallow vs the kicker rt? Also, what amp? I've seen four different amps now across the board here and guys on the f150 forum doing similar setups.
JBL939 6.9
JBL 629 6.5
JBL 329 3.5
Also bought the above mentioned harnesses and adapter plates.
Issues, off the top of my head:
the MLV just not worth it at all and a huge pain to work with. At least on a vertical surface.
3.5" center channel did not fit at all without trimming the "ring" of the speaker completely off. It hit the B&O cover.
For some reason on my first rear door I derped (it was late and I was multi tasking) and was attempting to mount the metra plate the opposite way. For some reason instead of flipping it over, I immediately chalked it up to me being an idiot and having ordered the wrong part, and spent the rest of the daylight hours destroying the stock speakers to fab up a bracket for the JBL's.
I was operating under the assumption that the adapter harnesses would fit all speaker locations (they don't for the tweeters or center channel) minor thing.
There is no way to get the tweeters in without fabbing a custom bracket. I did a kind of cool thing with hot glue and plumber tape and foam. Scratched my head on it for a night until I figured it out.
My passenger front door was atrocious to get undone. Took me more time then the other three doors put together, doubled. Everything was super tight, BMW level panel tolerances - and I had to go and screw it all up
Minor issues overall. Also, still waiting to button up the passenger pillar but thats due to a dash cam hardwire.
I've only had the speakers in a couple of days, but my initial impressions with the 6x9's in the doors is no discernible highs at all. They thump considerably (you can feel them vibrate the door panel if your leg is close to the door) I'd definitely say they are low to mid only, with a low bias.
As far as the modded stock enclosure - I've been reading everything I could about it. Did everyone come to a consensus with the pioneer shallow vs the kicker rt? Also, what amp? I've seen four different amps now across the board here and guys on the f150 forum doing similar setups.
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I did both subs.
Pioneer first and then the kicker.
The pioneer sounded a little cleaner but the kicker makes a lot more bass.
ALOT more.
QUOTE=thinkrevolutionx;1255371]Went with
JBL939 6.9
JBL 629 6.5
JBL 329 3.5
Also bought the above mentioned harnesses and adapter plates.
Issues, off the top of my head:
the MLV just not worth it at all and a huge pain to work with. At least on a vertical surface.
3.5" center channel did not fit at all without trimming the "ring" of the speaker completely off. It hit the B&O cover.
For some reason on my first rear door I derped (it was late and I was multi tasking) and was attempting to mount the metra plate the opposite way. For some reason instead of flipping it over, I immediately chalked it up to me being an idiot and having ordered the wrong part, and spent the rest of the daylight hours destroying the stock speakers to fab up a bracket for the JBL's.
I was operating under the assumption that the adapter harnesses would fit all speaker locations (they don't for the tweeters or center channel) minor thing.
There is no way to get the tweeters in without fabbing a custom bracket. I did a kind of cool thing with hot glue and plumber tape and foam. Scratched my head on it for a night until I figured it out.
My passenger front door was atrocious to get undone. Took me more time then the other three doors put together, doubled. Everything was super tight, BMW level panel tolerances - and I had to go and screw it all up
Minor issues overall. Also, still waiting to button up the passenger pillar but thats due to a dash cam hardwire.
I've only had the speakers in a couple of days, but my initial impressions with the 6x9's in the doors is no discernible highs at all. They thump considerably (you can feel them vibrate the door panel if your leg is close to the door) I'd definitely say they are low to mid only, with a low bias.
As far as the modded stock enclosure - I've been reading everything I could about it. Did everyone come to a consensus with the pioneer shallow vs the kicker rt? Also, what amp? I've seen four different amps now across the board here and guys on the f150 forum doing similar setups.[/QUOTE]
Pioneer first and then the kicker.
The pioneer sounded a little cleaner but the kicker makes a lot more bass.
ALOT more.
QUOTE=thinkrevolutionx;1255371]Went with
JBL939 6.9
JBL 629 6.5
JBL 329 3.5
Also bought the above mentioned harnesses and adapter plates.
Issues, off the top of my head:
the MLV just not worth it at all and a huge pain to work with. At least on a vertical surface.
3.5" center channel did not fit at all without trimming the "ring" of the speaker completely off. It hit the B&O cover.
For some reason on my first rear door I derped (it was late and I was multi tasking) and was attempting to mount the metra plate the opposite way. For some reason instead of flipping it over, I immediately chalked it up to me being an idiot and having ordered the wrong part, and spent the rest of the daylight hours destroying the stock speakers to fab up a bracket for the JBL's.
I was operating under the assumption that the adapter harnesses would fit all speaker locations (they don't for the tweeters or center channel) minor thing.
There is no way to get the tweeters in without fabbing a custom bracket. I did a kind of cool thing with hot glue and plumber tape and foam. Scratched my head on it for a night until I figured it out.
My passenger front door was atrocious to get undone. Took me more time then the other three doors put together, doubled. Everything was super tight, BMW level panel tolerances - and I had to go and screw it all up
Minor issues overall. Also, still waiting to button up the passenger pillar but thats due to a dash cam hardwire.
I've only had the speakers in a couple of days, but my initial impressions with the 6x9's in the doors is no discernible highs at all. They thump considerably (you can feel them vibrate the door panel if your leg is close to the door) I'd definitely say they are low to mid only, with a low bias.
As far as the modded stock enclosure - I've been reading everything I could about it. Did everyone come to a consensus with the pioneer shallow vs the kicker rt? Also, what amp? I've seen four different amps now across the board here and guys on the f150 forum doing similar setups.[/QUOTE]
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